One thing, Rob.....don't I want to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that before I put this back together, whether I switch injectors or not, ....that EVERYTHING is working? I'm gonna ohm test them all, and see if they give me a different reading. I will DEFINITELY switch them, though, because at least at #3, I CAN ACTUALLY GET TO IT! LOL.

 

Since the injector place is right down the road, have them all tested just to be sure.

 

Damn man that sucks...

Well tear that half down and get back at it and you'll have it buttoned up in no time...

 

Yeah, I will, ....but to get them back and have one fail, IT'S REALLY not great! lol. I'm down to the lower intake, and I'm going to pull it as well, so that I can either replace it or fix all the leaks. Including that PITA pipe, the BVSV that was re-sleeved, but that's still leaking I'm pretty sure....Just barely, but BARELY IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!

I took pics of that coolant behind the #2 injector, and I'll post all the pics thus far, but I cannot be sure until I remove it if it's leaking through the gasket, and even if it's not going to stop it's running....again, I can't leave it like that, ya know?

 

Posted same time, didn't see ya Lumpy! Sorry man, and thanks, yeah, it's just a matter of time, ....I just feel like I let all these people who helped me down! hahaha.

I'm going to really look into this, I've decided, to make sure that EVERYTHING is like new, within reason. Any ideas on where to get lower intake if I need it? Oh, btw, the throttle body sleeve where it meets that wrap around water pipe that goes around the thermostat? ........I THINK IT'S COMPROMISED AS WELL! Good LORD, is this thing turning into the titanic or what??????/// lol

 

I can't believe you're having all these little PITA issues!!! I really feel for ya. Maybe some of the gaskets didn't seat right??? Did you use RTV on any of the paper gaskets, when I did mine I didn't use any, I heard of some folks using a thin film on each side also. Donno man???

I wish I had some answers for ya!!!

 

Alot of times the gaskets need to get good and warm to seal up good. Seen it many times that a gasket will leak at first then just quit once the engine is warmed up.

 

Hmmmm, that's true, but it doesn't negate the fact that my lower elbow pipe to the front of the intake is leaking, nor that the BVSV is leaking(maybe that'll seal up too?), nor that that PITA WRAP AROUND PIPE is leaking,.....and I'm going to need to look into the Throttle Body side pipe leaking as well, because the hose was dry(????????) I dunno, as Lumpy says, lol....At this juncture, I'm just going to do a complete rebuild again.........Just kidding! lol.

It's just that, I figure, ...if I'm tearing down to the lower intake and have to remove the fuel rail to get the injectors out, I might as well replace those other items or seal them up while I'm at it this far again, eh? I would feel really stupid doing this half arsed and then having another issue because I was in a hurry to hear it run, ya know?

 

I should add that this is only true of paper gaskets.

 

Oh trust me, Rob, I knew what you meant. I was just adding that some of these things shouldn't leak at all, ...yet they did, so I'm starting to really spin here, trying to figure out what went wrong....and like with before my rebuild, I STILL don't know, lol. Gonna run the injectors back in there, tomorrow, but I doubt I'm going to get any different results on the test, .....but who knows, eh?

I'm starting to wonder if Lumpy is right on this; "What if it's enough to light the noid but not enough to power the injector?" ........Got me really thinking, but I'm going to have a hard time figuring out what, if anything, would be the difference....meaning, "why did it light at all? Is it a lower volt Noid? I'm just somewhat lost, ya know?

 

Now that I think about it, ....that injector worked before I even took it in there. So I doubt it's the injector, but we'll see, right?

 

Since you already have it apart, just go ahead & pull the harness apart & solider those injector splices. It took me less than 1 hour to unwrap, fix & rewrap the harness once I had the intake stuff taken apart. If you start at the injectors you don't have to go very far (half way to the fuse box) to find the splices. Consider it, problem prevention.

Your probably right, but at this point you have to eliminate any possibility.

 

2X on this...

I think you should pull the intake apart and install new gaskets...
Then trace the harness to find the splices that Yotarob is referring...
Check the one tube to see if it's actually split or a hole or something...

 

Right on, guys, thanks for the push, ....been a frustrating couple days, hahaha.

Ok, so, I'm just able to leave from doing breakfast. I would have gone before, but they weren't open yet, and I'd have been late back here, leaving them waiting...not good, lol. Actually, it'd been fine, they love me, but it's just not "ME", ya know?

Alright, well, I'm heading to the injector place. I've tested them all with my ohm'r, set on 20k(right?) and they all read from 1.6-3.8-max, USUALLY around 2.8.....which is in specs. I don't think they rebuilt that part of it, ...the resistors, just cleaned them up, so I doubt it's that. The only possibility, regarding it being an injector, from what I can find on line, anyhow, is that.......#2 is reading resistance, but when it gets power, it's not opening for some reason....It's stuck.....and that's just REALLY unlikely. Yet, like Rob said, and I fully agree, "Process of elimination"....it's a great tool, eh? lol. Only thing is, Rob, ....why did the noid light up? The only thing I can think, other than a off'n'on connection in the loom somewhere, is that the connection where it joins to the connector is loose, thus, when I bent it back to check, it lit up. Also, I still don't know if the coil has to be connected(don't know if the engine has to be running for the injectors to take over from the CSI).....make sense? Anyone know?

 

i'm still here man...just don't have any answers for ya...sorry.

 

I don't think that the coil matters. I agree that the injector being stuck is not likely. Sorry that is all I have to offer, but I am at the end of my knowledge base. If it was me, I would pull that harness apart, It could be an intermitant wiring problem.

 

OKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK,

Back from RC Injectors;

Injector #2 was completely stuck shut!!!!!!!!!! Something in my fuel line, from Filter to Banjo/or from within the fuel rail had come free, flew directly into #2 and froze up the plunger(whatever it's called), causing it to stick completely shut!!!!!

RC told me to "Take some throttle body cleaner, and REALLY THOROUGHLY ream out your fuel rail and hose from filter to Damper banjo, ....you should be right as rain, and just to ease your mind, ...THIS IS 99% surely what caused #2 not to get hot....NO GAS, NO FIRE!" So, granting I can get it all cleaned out, put it back together, I should be fine.

HOWEVER;

I still have coolant leaks, so I bought some Kwik Bond JB Weld and I'm going to try that, before buying a new lower intake or 90$ pipe! I'm also going to use it on the BVSV, around the base, and CSI-Time switch, to ensure COMPLETE SEAL! I figure, if I have to remove it some day, replacing the switches, JB weld is strong, but it wont prevent me from getting in there. OH, also on that elbow pipe that comes out the bottom front of the Intake and feeds the timing cover and IACV!

Wish me well, guys!

Mark

 

Good deal!!! At least you got the injector straightened out!!! The rest is superficial S/B that you can button up along the way. At least now you'll know if it runs/how it runs.

 

Thats great news about the injector, sounds like you have this all figured out now. Here is to you getting this thing on the road by friday morning! I'm going out of town for memorial day weekend & won't be near a computer for several days. I would LOVE to see a video before I leave.

 

great CHEF!!!!