ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
May 22, 2011 | 10:18 PM
#2281
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From: Mojave Desert, California
Diggin the progress Mark! As for the transfer case (funny how we have similar issues with our cases, lol) I heard from someone that if you remove the flange nuts to pull out the output shafts from the case, (required to change the seals) that you have to replace the flange nuts with new ones o.O Dunno how true that is, but I think it was my fab buddy who said that,...either that or I read it on marlin crawler.
May 23, 2011 | 07:45 AM
#2283
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
Diggin the progress Mark! As for the transfer case (funny how we have similar issues with our cases, lol) I heard from someone that if you remove the flange nuts to pull out the output shafts from the case, (required to change the seals) that you have to replace the flange nuts with new ones o.O Dunno how true that is, but I think it was my fab buddy who said that,...either that or I read it on marlin crawler.
Far as the engine? He said some time this week..... I'm fine with that. No rush, man. I'm prepping a couple things, re-alumicoting the Valve cover(alumicote paint, on that portion, the metalic gray.....not the red, that's staying as is, lol, ...PITA, ahhaa). Should have my crank back by now, ......and then he'll hone finish the block and fit the rings, bearings, ......he's having the crank balanced, too.
I'm going to take my harmonic balancer to him, make sure... Then take the oil pan to him, as I think I bent it a lil trying to pry it out(FURIOUSSSSSSSSS at that point, .... not a good time to work on things! lol)..... while it still had a single oil pan bolt in!
GRRRRRRRRR~! LOL. Shouldn't be too hard to straighten, right? Oh, and I want him to check the trueness of my header, intake, etc. I have a straight edge..... I want a MACHINIST to verify! lol.
May 23, 2011 | 07:53 PM
#2286
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
Hahahaha! Sorry, .... computer is doing a big back up.... SLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW! Lol. I'm actually uploading a video right now. Just so much easier for me right now with life as it is to just go after the fact with a vid! 
lol..... Just having to keep running back and forth, when I can get out there, off and on all day.... ehhhh, lol... Then having to think, 'Wait, did I pic that?', etc., haha.
So, coming up.... soon as the vid is loaded on youtube. It's basically just a 'change your diff's' video, lol. And, couple peacock holla's, hahaha... ANDDdddd, aside from the diff swap being finished, I now have almost all fresh fluids.... Trans, front and rear diff's and ....T-case is next.
lol..... Just having to keep running back and forth, when I can get out there, off and on all day.... ehhhh, lol... Then having to think, 'Wait, did I pic that?', etc., haha. So, coming up.... soon as the vid is loaded on youtube. It's basically just a 'change your diff's' video, lol. And, couple peacock holla's, hahaha... ANDDdddd, aside from the diff swap being finished, I now have almost all fresh fluids.... Trans, front and rear diff's and ....T-case is next.
May 24, 2011 | 07:40 AM
#2291
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
Jerryyyyyyy! Sup man?..........(Did you see any of the video?)
Yeah, .... I plan to. I just had to get it 'TOGETHER' first, all of it. Also, .....no motor, garage is slightly on a hill..... not really able to pain the stuff that's 'IN THE ENGINE BAY, FIXED INTO PLACE'.... as, ...I can't paint in the garage(NO WAY, trust me. Too many things in there that if, well, ANY OVERSPRAY at all got on it.... I'd be doomed! lol.
Overall, I'm just happy I got quite a bit done before I get the motor back...... Hopefullyyyyyyyy by the end of the week. The manganese valve guides are slow coming, as are the rings.
But, in 'the good news realm'..... (NOT that waiting a lil longer is bad news or something, lol)....... The crank was ground to 10-over, balanced, and he's very happy with how it came out.
I'm gonna list out some stuff, later..... Hopefully I'll get some time over the next 3 days to get my suspension stuff done. GRRRR! lol.
Yeah, .... I plan to. I just had to get it 'TOGETHER' first, all of it. Also, .....no motor, garage is slightly on a hill..... not really able to pain the stuff that's 'IN THE ENGINE BAY, FIXED INTO PLACE'.... as, ...I can't paint in the garage(NO WAY, trust me. Too many things in there that if, well, ANY OVERSPRAY at all got on it.... I'd be doomed! lol.
Overall, I'm just happy I got quite a bit done before I get the motor back...... Hopefullyyyyyyyy by the end of the week. The manganese valve guides are slow coming, as are the rings.
But, in 'the good news realm'..... (NOT that waiting a lil longer is bad news or something, lol)....... The crank was ground to 10-over, balanced, and he's very happy with how it came out.
I'm gonna list out some stuff, later..... Hopefully I'll get some time over the next 3 days to get my suspension stuff done. GRRRR! lol.
May 24, 2011 | 07:45 AM
#2292
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Por15 would be a good thing to paint your axle, frame, crossmember, and tierod ends with. It makes a good tough undercoating. to protect from rust. (jeez that sounded like a commercial)
anywho
good luck chef!
anywho
good luck chef!
May 24, 2011 | 09:11 AM
#2293
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
lol). Also, ...there's almost NO rust on this thing, in there as well. Only spot is the rear driver side wheel well, under the trim, ..GRRR! Someone hit my truck there with their car, and it knocked the screw out of the fender, that goes through the trim.... and it's pretty rusted there....but NOT ON THE PASS SIDE??????? lol. I just printed out the '4crawler 4wd bj spacer installation instructions' page... Ahhhhhhh, ..... nothing daunting, ...just curious on the 'time' I have. I don't want my motor to be ready on thursday and I'M NOT READY! HAHAHA(Actually, ...I DO want my motor ready, ...you know what I mean, lol).
May 24, 2011 | 06:04 PM
#2295
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From: hohenwald tn.
OK mark I have to ask a favor PLEASE STOP YOUR BUILD I started reading your thread from the beginning today and have got a lot of good ideas so thanks for that. But at the rate you move you will be adding the ability to hover and jet propulsion I just mean I read slow. Now you know I'm kidding what I really wanted to say was your build should encourage anyone to keep at it, your attention to detail makes me ashamed, and your diligence to get it done right, is awesome. I didn't just realize this today but but I for sure did not realize all that you have went thru keep up the great work and I will try to catch up atleast to were I came in a few months ago
May 24, 2011 | 06:08 PM
#2296
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From: Mojave Desert, California
Wow chef, nice looking undercarriage! 
No really, your rig is looking more clean than mine ever will be, lol.
Would also like to say thank you! If not for this thread, the technical-babble that a motor machinist I met recently wouldn't have made ANY sense to me! lol
No really, your rig is looking more clean than mine ever will be, lol.Would also like to say thank you! If not for this thread, the technical-babble that a motor machinist I met recently wouldn't have made ANY sense to me! lol
May 24, 2011 | 08:43 PM
#2297
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
Wow, guys, ...very grateful for the prop's, kudo's, compliments and that 'joe-ism', hahaha(STILL love it, Joe, hahaha. "I was bangin seven gram rocks, that's how I roll", hahahahahaha! That is my FAVORITE remix, EVER!>>> "Winning")
YOTATECH has been the primary source for my information and help!(Encouragement as well!) You all, simply, ROCK! lol.
Ok, soooooooooo, WINNING, INDEED, today! LOL. Did a video to just make it simple for me. Far as pics, didn't get any today, but I will. For those who can't watch video, ..........
1. Removed the sway links
2. Removed the Shocks
3. Separated the lower BJ to LCA Links and then...
4. Removed LCA's
5. Removed the Lower Ball Joints
6. Installed brand new OEM-Toyota, Lower Ball Joints
7. Got out all the extra stuff I'm doing;
.....a. Brand new OEM-Toyota, LCA Bushings, all ready for the Machinist, Tomorrow(he does them all day)
.....b. New OMEmu 2" Lift Sport Shocks for the Front(Already installed the MONGO OMEmu Steering Damper)
.....c. All new OEM-Toyota, Sway Bar Bushings
.....d. New 4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers, plus Diff and Sway Drop Kit
.....e. Brand new, LAST SET of Mega Travel Ball Joints from Jim, owner of Downey's GARAGE! lol. (Same place I went to get the Light/Push Bar... I know, "AKA- Grill Destroyer".... I still like it! Plus, can't afford one of Scotty's right now! lol)
Video next post............ THANKS AGAIN, GUYS!
YOTATECH has been the primary source for my information and help!(Encouragement as well!) You all, simply, ROCK! lol.
Ok, soooooooooo, WINNING, INDEED, today! LOL. Did a video to just make it simple for me. Far as pics, didn't get any today, but I will. For those who can't watch video, ..........
1. Removed the sway links
2. Removed the Shocks
3. Separated the lower BJ to LCA Links and then...
4. Removed LCA's
5. Removed the Lower Ball Joints
6. Installed brand new OEM-Toyota, Lower Ball Joints
7. Got out all the extra stuff I'm doing;
.....a. Brand new OEM-Toyota, LCA Bushings, all ready for the Machinist, Tomorrow(he does them all day)
.....b. New OMEmu 2" Lift Sport Shocks for the Front(Already installed the MONGO OMEmu Steering Damper
).....c. All new OEM-Toyota, Sway Bar Bushings
.....d. New 4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers, plus Diff and Sway Drop Kit
.....e. Brand new, LAST SET of Mega Travel Ball Joints from Jim, owner of Downey's GARAGE! lol. (Same place I went to get the Light/Push Bar... I know, "AKA- Grill Destroyer".... I still like it! Plus, can't afford one of Scotty's right now! lol)
Video next post............ THANKS AGAIN, GUYS!
May 24, 2011 | 09:20 PM
#2300
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From: Washington
Yeah, ....they sting, lol. Luckily I MISSED the knuckle... and YEP, plenty to keep me busy! lol.
Hey! Sup Mr. Truckman? I'm just back from taking a quick look over her Rodeo.....
1. The rears are METAL ON METAL, from what I can tell. HOPEFULLY, the drums are still able to take a grind.
2. Rotors have a decent lip on top and bottom, both sides, worse on driver side... (Pads wearing into the rotor only on 85% of the rotor, if you know what I"m saying? Concave slightly where the pads run.... )
3. Can't be sure if the master is leaking. Seems NOT to be in the cab, ...and there IS SOME fluid under the master on the booster... but can't be sure that's 'new', if you know what I mean?
4. I'll have to start with the turning of the rotors if possible, and drums as well(haven't actually looked at the drums yet, but they are REALLY 'SHHHHHKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK'-TYPE GRINDING. lol.)
5. When I felt her rotor, they are a lil wavey, ...but actually, what I noticed was that they were SCREAMING HOT, ...literally burned my finger after sitting 10 minutes, but the DRUMS WERE NOT EVEN WARM. (I'm starting to think that air in the system is keeping the drums from actually working right....... Or, some type of LVSV for this truck has air in it, etc......) But I would just think that, if metal on metal....they'd at LEAST be warm.... While I DO KNOW that the Rotors do most of the work in any system.
Anyway, SURE, any input would be great, and appreciated, as always!
************************************************** *****
Far as my diff, ......it's cleaned up pretty nicely, and I scraped off around 2 CUPS OF ......STUFF! lol. I'm guessing it's mudd and clay stuff caked on there from Rob's Adventures? lol. All I could think of. Actually, hoping that the pinion seal isn't leaking, but doesn't appear to be any trail of fluid on that end... neither on the fill or drain plugs... So we'll see. I was going to just use my housing and swap the gears... but I wasn't sure if the journals in there would "work well with others" after a swap!?! lol.
I'm going to just use some 80W-90 to lube up the axle seals on this diff, too, ....that ok? Or should I use some of the Red Grease I have(lithium equivalent for the bearings, etc, from valvoline)
Thanks on this, too^^ lol.
Hey! Sup Mr. Truckman? I'm just back from taking a quick look over her Rodeo.....
1. The rears are METAL ON METAL, from what I can tell. HOPEFULLY, the drums are still able to take a grind.
2. Rotors have a decent lip on top and bottom, both sides, worse on driver side... (Pads wearing into the rotor only on 85% of the rotor, if you know what I"m saying? Concave slightly where the pads run.... )
3. Can't be sure if the master is leaking. Seems NOT to be in the cab, ...and there IS SOME fluid under the master on the booster... but can't be sure that's 'new', if you know what I mean?
4. I'll have to start with the turning of the rotors if possible, and drums as well(haven't actually looked at the drums yet, but they are REALLY 'SHHHHHKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK'-TYPE GRINDING. lol.)
5. When I felt her rotor, they are a lil wavey, ...but actually, what I noticed was that they were SCREAMING HOT, ...literally burned my finger after sitting 10 minutes, but the DRUMS WERE NOT EVEN WARM. (I'm starting to think that air in the system is keeping the drums from actually working right....... Or, some type of LVSV for this truck has air in it, etc......) But I would just think that, if metal on metal....they'd at LEAST be warm.... While I DO KNOW that the Rotors do most of the work in any system.
Anyway, SURE, any input would be great, and appreciated, as always!
************************************************** *****
Far as my diff, ......it's cleaned up pretty nicely, and I scraped off around 2 CUPS OF ......STUFF! lol. I'm guessing it's mudd and clay stuff caked on there from Rob's Adventures? lol. All I could think of. Actually, hoping that the pinion seal isn't leaking, but doesn't appear to be any trail of fluid on that end... neither on the fill or drain plugs... So we'll see. I was going to just use my housing and swap the gears... but I wasn't sure if the journals in there would "work well with others" after a swap!?! lol.
I'm going to just use some 80W-90 to lube up the axle seals on this diff, too, ....that ok? Or should I use some of the Red Grease I have(lithium equivalent for the bearings, etc, from valvoline)
Thanks on this, too^^ lol.
2. As far as lip goes, that usually happens after a pad slap or two. On Rodeo's, you have to pull apart the hubs and wheel bearings just like on our Toyotas, to get the rotors off. Most times, a quickee brake shop will either turn them on the car or if they are close to minimum and not warped, will do a "pad slap" (replacing pads and not replacing rotors, which is a big no-no at my shop)
3. That is the common place for masters to leak on vehicles with power brakes. Most times, it doesn't leak enough to puddle in the booster in front of the diaphragm and will just seep out where your seeing it. Wipe it off with acetone and if you see fluid there in the next day or two, then you know you got a leaker.
4. Refer to #1 for saving yourself some time.
5. After 10 minutes of sitting, any brake rotor should be cooled enough to not melt your fingertip! That screams sticking caliper to me. If and when you get calipers, get NAPA "Eclipse" calipers WITH BRACKETS. You won't have any issue with them. I use them all the time at work (and the have a killer warranty! We're a NAPA car care at Sterling's Automotive. check us out @ www.sterlingsautomotive.com)
So after all of this mess, from my professional opinion,
- Master Cylinder (if it is currently leaking)
- Front Pads and Rotors
- Rear Drums and Shoes
- Front Calipers (if the pistons are hard to push back in or the caliper slides are not floating like they should be)
- Rear Wheel Cylinders (if moisture is found inside the drums)
- Complete Brake Fluid flush (which is supposed to be done every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it attracts and absorbs water, causing rust in brake lines, caliper/wheel cylinders and eventually causing leaks. Because of that rust pitting on seal surfaces inside them, it acts like sandpaper on the rubber cups and seals.)
I hope I helped. and yes, 90W on the seal. it's always good to use the lubricant on seals that the seal is sealing.
