lolz

 

Yeah wabbit don't know how to use wrenches, he only knows how to use welders and torches. :wabbit2:

If he has to remove a nut, he just cuts it off, if he needs to bolt something on he just welds it.

 

email sent to Doug Thorley Headers / Jardine Products

 

Well, removed the grey sleeve. It looks like the new brass sleeve is to take its place. As far as the original compression nut, are you getting it tight enough? Might try to reflare it, clean out the thread on the fitting and inside the bore and try it again.

 

thanks man. One g-d day off and another snag!

i will clean the threads...thats for sure

on the list of "hardware included" with the headers , it lists "2 crush sleeve black....and 1 crush sleeve brass"...no mention of where in the hell the black ones go, but when i took the nuts off the top of the header, they were right there doing nothing.

i'm super pissed right now.

 

Also, make sure that the pipe is all the way into the bore and seated. Then screw in the fitting.

 

i think i got it.

i'll bore you with some details while the pics are downloading.

1st of all....thanks Logan.

i took that 'brass" crush sleeve off.....i even switched around the black crush sleeves thinking they were different diameters maybe. nope. so i thought i'd make a bigger mess and disassemble the EGR....and BINGO.....the crush sleeve in there looks just like the brass one.

these instructions blow. the diagram blows and is wrong.

i cleaned the REED valve nut (original) with a wire wheel and wd-40 and not only did it thread easier, i held it in such a way that when i tightened it, i'm fairly certain my hands will never be able to loosen it. if it leaks....it was meant to leak.

using the black compression sleeve on the lower portion i was able to get an adjustable wrench around the nut (barely) and tighten it down.

EGR will wait until after the plenum is on

 

and for Brian....I hit it with my purse too.

 

pics...cuz i care

lets look at the instructions together...(sarcasm intended)

ummmm hmmmm OK...got those 2 black, 1 brass



yup...ok...did that....oh wait....that crush sleeve.....is it the brass one like is shown in the drawing or the black one....or both....or what??





OK...so if i do it like in the pic.....and use the black sleeve that was already in the hole........GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR



but when i took apart the EGR, I saw this



which looked JUST LIKE this



which made me say Logan had it right.....only 1 compression sleeve....but I'm only giving you 95% since you got the color wrong

so this



now looks like this (forward hole is for the EGR)

 

OOOOH, sarcasm, I LOVE IT! lol. Wait, did you say LOGAN WAS RIGHT? HEHE, jk.... he's been right and helped me too...... I just never got the slams like you get from him, lol... Actually, that's probably mannerisms of endearment, right? haha.

Looks GREAT, Jerry, ......just hurry up, k? I'm really NEEDING to see this thing start and for Joe to then do a "I LOVE WHAT YOU DO FOR ME, TOYOTA" jump in the background of the video, and then the wife comes out and says, "DINNER, NOW, get your celebrat'n man cave rumps in here!" ...ok, that's probably not accurate, LIKE LOGAN was, lol... but long and short, I CAN'T WAIT, seriously!

BTW, does Joe ever plan on stopping in here and giving us crap? hahahaha.

 

What color wrong?????!

 

trying to read your broken english....I interpreted it as you telling me to remove the GREY one and use the BRASS one....it was opposite, but the rationale was correct. so you got a 95%.

now an 85% for backsass

 

I went back a few pages looking at your old "what was left " list and didnt see it. You guys have to be getting close. Looking good. You should be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

 

forgot about that list.

next to do...saturday...or tomorrow if i get out on time (3pm...unlikely) is to take the timing belt cover off rotate the crank to get to TDC, put in the distributor and then start on the fuel stuff...then it's on to the intake plenum, vac line, linkage and belts and VROOM...but also at the same time, have to plumb the exhaust pipes underneath...these are all slip joints held with clamps...not to be welded.

thanks TERRY!!!....don't worry, it will be soon, but it's not gonna be secret by any means. nobody will miss it.

 

Sorry to have missed your question Jerry, I just read about your progress. It appears you figured it out, although that same thing stumped me for a while as well. The grey sleeves fit into the header and the brass crush sleeve is used for the upper part of the EGR, if I remember correctly. I ended up re-using the crush sleeve from the old PAIR reed tubing for that one... or maybe that end doesn't require a sleeve since it is flared. I will search through my old parts and see.

Looks good, you did a great job trimming the bracket off the reed valve and attaching the clutch line bracket

One thing you should test fit is the rubber hose that comes off the back of the reed valve, it was really tight fitting that. The fuel line that is bolted to rear of the head was in the way, the reed valve was too high off the header which made the the curve of the rubber hose so tight was pinching it.

I ended up trimming about .75" off the bottom of the new copper tube and rotating the reed valve slightly which made everything fit much better. You might have to set the plenum back in place (without bolting it down) to test all that.

Keep up the good work!

EDIT: I looked at my old parts, and did not use a crush sleeve on the upper PAIR connection. The flared portion of the copper tube nestled right into the PAIR valve, and the original nut cut from the old PAIR tube worked perfectly. Use the brass crush sleeve that came with your Thorleys to attach to your EGR valve.

 

thanks Joe.....I was just gonna search your thread to see if yo had pics on there i may need.

if i need to use a new hose i will, as i am assuming the fitment will be an issue because of the new location of the REED

 

Just take the old rubber hose to Autozone, they will match it and sell you 1 ft which will be plenty. On second thought, buy 3 ft if you are also doing an ISR mod, you can use it from the air box to the same steel line that feeds the PAIR at the front of the plenum

 

actually, I may get more than that....ISR mod and ZUK mod coming up

 

Jerry I won't be around this weekend for startup if you get that far. The hill Climb is this weekend.

 

whatever....fffssff...