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^ What transfer case are you using? The chevy ECM needs a 40 pulse for the speedometer.
OP any more updates?
I'm using the stock V6 transfer case on the R150F. I've found a sender here in Australia but I need to sell a kidney first before paying the ridiculous price they are asking
I just pulled my 3vze out and I am on the look out for a 5.3 or 6.0. Thanks for a great thread with lots of great info. You said this was not a cheap build can I ask a ball park figure? Thanks
Had my 4Runner up and running for a couple of months now. Couldn't be happier with the performance.
Have you got any form of speed sensor hooked up to your ecu? This is m last little hurdle as it looks as though the Toyota signal won't be compatible
Try searching for a company called jags that run...I was going to get my vss from them.
I just pulled my 3vze out and I am on the look out for a 5.3 or 6.0. Thanks for a great thread with lots of great info. You said this was not a cheap build can I ask a ball park figure? Thanks
Without adding it up...I would say around 5k easy...very possibly more. I've got 2k in just the engine, harness and computer.
But...it will vary...you may opt to modify the harness on the engine...I didn't.
Yes the rear driveshaft will need to be shortened. The front one is still connected but I question the amount of spline engagement so it will be lengthened. I'm using mounts from advance adapters for a 350 along with dirty dingo conversion slider mounts to make it fit a LS style engine. My radiator is from be cool for a 350 as well. I'm using manifolds on my truck...hooker lsx conversion manifolds...they fit the closest from what i could tell, their dimensions were very helpful.
About those manifolds. I maybe found them on Summit HERE and it looks like they run $300. Do you know if they hug the block tighter than LS1/LS6 stock manifolds? Those can be had for $100 or less, they're sometimes throwaways. Just wondering if you tried others in your search, as I've heard (I thought from AdvanceAdaptors website?) that fitting the LS motor between the frame rails is pretty much not doable.
THIS THREAD on LS1TECH is teaching me a lot, and then I got to THIS POST about how the 5.3 is the cheapest LS option until you try to squeeze it in where it won't fit and start shelling out big money for manifold, intake, corvette accessory drive...and by the time you're done with the add-ons you cost as much or more than an LS1. Your experience seems to be similar, I'm trying to just do it all once if I ever start.
Yes, they hug the block very tight...hooker actually has very good drawings of them installed with lots of dimensions. I looked into several of the factory offerings but nothing seemed to quite fit the bill. As to the intake manifold, it does cost a bit but you don't have to use a ls6 version like i did, i think that was around 500 alone. Swapping to the corvette accessory drive wasn't too big of a deal but i also used brackets for swap applications from qwik performance.
I had looked those up on Summit, which does not have that diagram even in the instructions. Thanks to Jegs for bringing the help!
So, 24.8" is about as narrow as you can make these motors. The best I can tell from THIS FRAME DIAGRAM is that my '85 frame is around 22.8" wide. I get about 23" with a quick and dirty tape measurement on my own frame...stupid 22RE is in the way to get a better reading.
Do you think your '91 is wider than that?
For my own future reference, here are the brackets you mentioned from Kwik: *clicky*
I went and took a look at mine...the exhaust flange on the passenger side is about halfway across the frame rail...the driver side not so much. What I did was buy a 2.5" U bend with the smallest radius I could find and kept it as close to the flange as I could and angled it inward and back. Its pretty close to my upper control arm..but you wouldn't have that problem.
Without actually measuring tho...I'm thinking my frame isnt much wider in this area if it is at all.
I just finished rebuilding the junk yard LM7. I'm modifying the harness and pulling all the unneeded stuff out from under the hood to make room. I'm sending out the computer to have it flashed nextra week. I am using the r150f tranny. Did you use the cluth, flywheel, starter, and bell housing kit that advanced adapters has? If not what did you use?
Did you have the emissions stuff flashed out or leave it in?
Last edited by 7.62x51ar; Mar 26, 2016 at 09:53 PM.
Reason: Forgot to ask about emissions
I just finished rebuilding the junk yard LM7. I'm modifying the harness and pulling all the unneeded stuff out from under the hood to make room. I'm sending out the computer to have it flashed nextra week. I am using the r150f tranny. Did you use the cluth, flywheel, starter, and bell housing kit that advanced adapters has? If not what did you use?
Did you have the emissions stuff flashed out or leave it in?
Yes, I used the advance adapter clutch components..only issue was that on a ls style engine it leaves the bottom of the bellhousing open. That was remedied by milling a step in the bottom portion if the bellhousing and trimming the supplied cover some.
I presume you bought the advance adapters clutch/flywheel set up with the ring goes into the outer step of the crank?
I sourced all of my clutch and flywheel parts separately so I only have the sbc pilot bush with came with my bellhousing kit. Might be easier to turn up a complete new bush to suit .
Hoping to make a start on mine soon. I've had the parts sitting here for close to 2 years now lol
What size fly wheel and clutch did you use for your swap?
Feb 12, 2015 | 06:29 PM
