Slowly but surely...still moving along
I tried to bend the new tube up as close to the original as I could

I'm using 3/8 .035 wall seamless, stainless tubing

I'm waiting on my clamps so I can bend up new hard lines and mount them to the frame.

 

You could have a steady side job making those for people.

 

What's that? Modifying the fuel pump bracket?

 

Quick update...new fuel pump and tank are on, electric fan is wired up as well.

All is working great..well..except now the truck is throwing code p0106 and I'm not exactly sure why. Hopefully i can look into it a bit Monday since I'm off. If anybody has any ideas...let me know.

 

Any more progress? Did you have any luck clearing the code? Looks like its for the map sensor. Is there any leak in the vacuum hose running to it?

 

Nah...not yet...it's not throwing that code anymore...went back and snugged intake manifold down in sequence so maybe that was it

it's showing a cylinder 1 misfire...checked spark...it's not that

i'm thinking something might have got to the injector due to the shape my old fuel tank and pump were in

not sure yet

 

I have a question magpede: what bellhousing adapter did you use to mount the engine to the r150 tranny? I'm looking into doing this same swap on my truck. You answered everything I needed to know minus how you made the chevy motor hold hands with the toy tranny. Also,you think it'll hold up to the power of a cammed 6.0? Or should I just go with a 4l60e? I like the idea of being able to kick the clutch and throw it sideways,but I'm clueless on the power the stock toy drivetrain can handle. I really don't want to change axles and trans but if I have to,I will.

 

The bellhousing I used is from advance adapters and it's actually for a regular small block chevy or 4.3...you'll need the one for the 168 tooth flywheel. As for holding the power, it really is going to come down to if you plan on using all that power. I'm planning to stick with 31's so that plays into it as well. Depending on which 6.0 you use...you're looking at about the same power I have stock for stock and I'm kind of leaning towards swapping cams later. I've been in a z71 with the same engine I have and it would get sideways on you even with 33x13.50's just depending on how you drive. Your gains from swapping cams will probably be a bit more but still in the same ball park as mine would be from doing the same. As for the 4l60e..having had a truck with one since new..I hate them personally because they just don't seem to hold up like they should but your experience may differ.

All that being said...I would highly suggest driving your truck with the engine stock first a while...for me the cam swap would be mostly for sound because...it's a heck of a feeling that when you rev the engine it's like the whole truck lifts up...it's a bit crazy honestly...maybe the polyurethane engine mounts are causing this...idk. I absolutely love it tho and having been in fairly high horsepower cars (gt500, stage 3 roush etc etc) I will say it's a feeling unique to this truck. No, I'm not saying it will outrun those just that IMO it gives a better feeling of what it actually is. I wish mine was going so I could try it out and get a better idea of how it performs so you guys can get a better idea as well.

 

Just wondering if you were able to use the pilot bush which came with the bellhousing kit or if you had to machine up a new one?

 

I used the one in the kit...had to do a little measuring to determine how far it needed to stick out.

There's a ring that the bushing will go into that goes into the crank so it will fit properly.

 

I presume you bought the advance adapters clutch/flywheel set up with the ring goes into the outer step of the crank?

I sourced all of my clutch and flywheel parts separately so I only have the sbc pilot bush with came with my bellhousing kit. Might be easier to turn up a complete new bush to suit .

Hoping to make a start on mine soon. I've had the parts sitting here for close to 2 years now lol

 

That is correct...This is actually an area I may redo later on as I would like to make a piece that uses a factory pilot bearing instead of a bushing.

 

Just looking at your thermostat housing. What type is it as I'm struggling to find a 90deg clockable one

 

It's made by canton racing and ran me about 100 bucks.

 

Any more progress on your project?

Got another question for you. Have you had any issues with the clutch now disengaging? I don't seem to be getting enough stroke with my clutch master cylinder and the landcruiser slave cylinder they specify for the conversion kit. Thinking it will need something like a 3/4 bore to match what the cruiser runs

 

Nope, no progress...7 day work weeks slowed me down a lot.

As for the clutch....you're having the same problem I did. Advance adapters said I have to use a genuine Toyota/aisin clutch slave. I purchased one...but also a land cruiser master. It has a 3/4 bore and will bolt right up. Only modification was drilling the threads out of one mounting hole.

 

Do you have the internal master cylinder under the dash or an external one in the engine bay? Not sure if I have a different set up to you being an Australian rhd model. I'm very limited for room on what would be your passengers side. I've found a Wilwood option that I'll measure up tomorrow

 

Mine is in the engine bay. Oddly enough...I ordered the clutch master from Australia.

 

Just realised your master cylinder will sit on the outside of the engine bay, whereas mine sits behind the head on what would be your passengers side. Must only be the rhd V6 that has the internal cylinder

 

Had my 4Runner up and running for a couple of months now. Couldn't be happier with the performance.
Have you got any form of speed sensor hooked up to your ecu? This is m last little hurdle as it looks as though the Toyota signal won't be compatible