22R Toyota pickup won't start. New head, new block, new timing chain, new wires, new cap and rotor.had some guy helping me put it together he stuck a screwdriver in at the timing chain cover at the head gasket trying to pry the head up instead of loosening up the oil pan. Got it put together started up was running rough. Ran it for approximately 10 miles.Thought maybe the timing chain was off a tooth tore it back down found out head gasket was blown. replaced the head gasket put it all back together timing chain in the proper position. Now it won't start I have spark. I have fuel. I'm at a loss can somebody help me?

 

your distributor may be 180 degrees off

 

Distributor is stabbed right, rotor pointing at number one, get spark on number one when adjust distributor. I checked the fuel pump I'm getting fuel all the way through the carburetor.

 

You have to verify that the distributor is pointing at #1 when the CAM is at it's TDC mark, the crank makes 2 full turns for every 1 turn of the cam. If you turn your crankshaft while watching the distributor rotor you will notice that one time it will point at #1 with the crank at TDC and the next full turn of the crank to TDC it will not. that is how you could be 180 degrees off, it's an easy mistake that has caught MANY mechanics in the past.

 

Akwheeler nailed it. If you have fuel and compression but it won't start, then it must be a spark problem. Having spark at the right time is just as important as having it at all.

 

Yes it is at tdc with the shiney link at the top of the cam and all the timeing marks lined up. Have checked it three times

 

So, now you need to step back and think about the basics, for an engine to run you need compression, fuel, and spark at TDC (a bit before actually) on the compression stroke.
If you have all of these it MUST run, so you are missing something.
Stick a straw or something similar down the #1 spark plug hole to verify the piston is at the top of it's stroke when your crank shaft timing mark lines up, could be that your harmonic balancer spun.
Take the valve cover off and verify that both of the #1 valves are closed when you are approaching TDC (this will be the compression stroke) and that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire.
Do a compression test on all 4 cylinders.
Give it a squirt of starting fluid. if it starts and dies you are NOT getting fuel.
I would also not pay much attention to the "shiny link" on the timing chain, just the marks on the cam pulley and the piston position (crank timing mark if it is correct)
the only other possibilities I can come up with are, weak spark or flooded/fouled plugs.
Let us know what you find when checking stuff and if you get it running let us know what did the trick. Good luck!
I just saw your comment about fuel all the way through the carburetor, did you see fuel spraying into the intake?

 

I just got done rebuilding a 85 22r and am having same issue

i have correct timing marks and originally did have distributor 180deg backwards but still nothing when i fixed that, I have no compression tester but i have spark and fuel (or starter fluid) in spray to the carb.

the marks on the harmonic ballancer are they advance or retarded timing for the 5deg.

i have tried both the 0 and 5 deg marks and it shows some signs of wanting to start at 5 deg but nothing at 0

 

you could try pulling the distributor and moving it a tooth towards advance and see if that helps. once you can get it to start you will need a timing light no matter what anyway. There has also been discussion on these forums about harmonic balancers separating enough for the timing mark to shift, so your mark may not be correct. FYI

 

So i had the timing chain one tooth off and got it running (the one tooth off caused very low compression 60psi) but now i still have low compression around 95psi on all cylinders

 

Causes for low compression:
bad rings not sealing well to the cylinder walls
bad valves not sealing the cylinders closed or incorrectly adjusted
bad head gasket
bad head, cracked or warped
bad cam, lobes worn down
bad timing, opening/closing valves early/late
loose spark plugs (does not effect a compression tester)
plugged/clogged intake or forgot to open the throttle.
cylinder walls washed down with fuel, no lube to aid in sealing the rings.

You were sure the timing was correct earlier, how SURE are you now? Maybe you were two teeth off?

 

honestly i didnt replace or clean the valves

i really hope that it is not the head gasket because i really dont want to pull the head again but if ill do ill also clean the valves

the cam is not worn

i tried both one tooth and two and i had more on the one tooth off than with 2 (95ish vs 30ish psi)

intake is going to be replaced soon as it has a coolant leak so if that is clogged then replacing it should fix it.

any other ideas?

 

13 teeth on the cam sprocket, this is 20° per tooth.

This four cylinder is an "interference" engine, what this means is the piston and valve occupy the same space but they are not supposed to do so at the same time. It's very important to not get the cam timing wring as it risks having the valve and piston collide...

One tooth of might not be a problem, I've not done any math or checks so tifwiw, two teeth wrong I am pretty confident in saying you have the valve and piston contact. If you were turning the crank by hand you would have noticed before any damage, spining it with the starter you likely cause damage.

...

 

yes i turned crank by hand untill i verified no interference