TinMan, thats the correct method to bleed brakes :-p ...I never seem to have the right hose to fit the nipples tho.

FYI, check out speed bleeders. They replace the stock nipple, inside they have a check valve, which eliminates the need for a water seal (that gatorade bottle with fluid in it you used).

You just crack the nut and pump away, alows fluid out but no vaccumn back in. I *have* speed bleeders on my rig but they all need replacing now since i didnt put dust caps on the nipples and they're all siezed. so if u get em, cap em

cheers

 

I have been really busy lately and just doing some catch up. That richness could of been a tough find to do. I am not sure I would of thought of the AFM being stuck open. Great job on finding that problem and getting it running.

 

Well guys a bit of good news, and a bit of bad news.

Good news is I couldnt resist and took the runner for a short drive today. No vibrations from the drive shaft until I hit 60 then I could feel it. No weird sounds from the rear end, so I expect great things from the third East Coast Gear Supply built for me.

Bad news is the AFM is still sticking. I even tore it all the way down, cleaned and lubed it last night. So it looks like that will have to be replaced.

Second bit of bad news is now when you let off the throttle it dies instead of going to idle. It will start right back up though.

And for the really bad news, after the drive I went to check the torque on the exhaust manifold for the last time, and the back lower stud is stripped out. I will pick up a 10/125 heli coil tool this week, but I don't know if I can get in there with a drill, so the engine may have to come back out. I might just take engine out and have the machinest do it for me. I don't know.

Going take a break for the rest of this weekend, and hang Christmas lights.

Later

 

Hello Tinman. I have helped some friends work on their trucks and if it is going to be stripped out it, it is the one you are talking about. Not sure why. I have even seen them in the boneyard stripped.

One I was able to get to with a helicoil. It was a tight fit but was able to get a straight shot at. If I remember right the brake power booster is what gets in the way.

The other one I did, was a two wheel drive. Dont know if you could on a 4 wheel, but I removed the radiator and undid the motor and tranny mounts and slid it forward enough to get a drill in there.

A friend of mine fixes alot of Toyotas on the side and the next closes size in helicoil is actually a standard stud. I am not sure of the size but 3/8th comes to mind. It is a pain in the rear. Getting a nice straight shot at it with the drill and not going too deep is the secret and it isnt a bad fix.

Bad thing is, for the one helicoil you need, you have to buy a whole kit (not cheap). Hope this may help. It has been a couple of years since I did this, so have a few cobwebs up there, but if you tackle this yourself I can get with him and get a quick review.

Get a kit and the correct drill bit and go slow and steady. I use the old stud as a depth guide for the bit. I back the bit out several times and clean the shavings off. Once the hole is drilled. The helicoil goes in nice and easy and I just used a bolt to hold the mainfold on.

 

Thanks For the info Terry! I am sure I will tackle it myself, I always do. I have the heli coils, and plenty of studs, just not the tap. I'll probably go ahead and buy the kit though, as there is a on of 10x125 bolts on these guys. I might try to just run the tap in without drilling, that soft aluminum should be fine like that. If I can get a short bit, I might could get my air drill in there. I'm sure Fasten All will have what I need. Just premium dollars there. Ny way I go about it, I'll take some pics, going slow and steady for sure.

Any thoughts on why it is dying instead of going to idle. I'm pretty sure the dash pot is junk. That could be doing it.

Not looking forward to buying a new AFM either but looks like that's what's going to have happen.

 

I had that problem one time. I know it didnt cost me anything to fix. Wish I had remebered what I did to fix it. Seems to me like it was the plunger that my finger is pointing to. It wasnt making contact or something just wasnt right on it.

Also check that the set screw is set right. I have even seen them missing.

One other thing it might be is the idle speed.

What ever the fix is I will make this a note in my 88 build. I do remember it didnt cost anything to fix.

 

Yeah I'll give it a look. I have the later model throttle body. And the dash pot is literally falling apart. And when you operate it with your finger it is not not very solid.i looked it up on village Toyota parts last night $54. So that is not to bad. I am leaning towards the AFM though as the problem for it dieing when you let off the pedal. It was not doing that before I started working on the AFM. But first thing is to fix the stripped out manifold boss.

Later

 

Looked around town today, of course none of the big box stores have a M10x125 helicoil. I'll try Car Quest and Fasten All tomorrow.

I have some M10x125 helicoils, but my 300 peice tap and die set does not have a M12x125 tap. If I can locate on that might put me in business.

If I can't come up with it, I might try the shoulder less SBC rocker stud trick.

Anyway here is a picture of what I hae to work with.

 

I dont know of the SBC stud. Will be intrested to see how that works. I am sure I will run into this problem again down the road.

I just go to the standard size. I have cut a drill bit down to make it a little easier to get into there. It is going to be the back bottom hole in my expereince.

Hope alll goes well for you.

 

All is well here Terry. How is the shop coming. If I was closer would come over and help you get that thing under roof. Used to do a lot of construction. Don't have the back for it anymore.

I could not find arocker arm stud for small block Chevy. But car quest had 7/16x14-7/16x20 studs 2" long. I ran a 7/16x14 tap through the stripped out hole. Felt like the hole could have been just a little smaller for the tap to really cut good threads. But the manifold is back on and everything torqued up nice. So we will see if it holds. Did a little more research and if I have to to a m10x125 helicoil there will still be room for the 13/32 drill bit and M12x125 tap. Best thing about going the 7/16 stud route is it cost $1.45.

Also ran out to the pick and pull at lunch and found a good AFM. At least it tested good, and the vane door worked real nice.

So now it is all back together, with the new to me AFM on it. I did not start it up. Used a little ultra copper on the manifold gasket, and wanted to let it sit over night.

Hopefully this all took care of the running rich, exhaust leak, and dieing when you let off the throttle. But knowing my luck here lately, I doubt it.

Also got the Christmas lights up, so the wife is happy too.

Later

 

Dude your build is amazing!!!! Subscribed!!!!

 

Thanks John, used to live not to far from you in Fredericksburg. We miss the land, but not the traffic.

Edit never mind, saw Battle Groud, and thought Battle Ground VA.

Anyway, I'm originally from Sunman IN.

 

Just to change up the topics a little bit, what are you thinking of doing with the interior? Are you going to try to go with a more modern set up? Are you going to waterproof the whole thing? Plush? Maybe a minimalist lay out? I can't wait to see the truck "finished" (as if there is such a thing with these projects).

 

Interior will be a lot cheaper. Plan to pull out everything but the dash. Clean it up seam sealler where needed. A little paint here and there. Peel and seal. Padding, Lowes carpet, seat covers and a bit better sound system.

 

Well guys started the old runner tonight and all seems well with it. It idled very nice at about 1300 rpm until it warmed up and then dropped down to 900 rpm. I let it idle like that for a bit and took it through the rpms pretty good, and it didn't miss a beat. I think when I get a better dash pot it, it will really nice. I adjusted the idle back down to 750. And checked the timing. It sits at 5 before better than any I have seen.

Hopefully I'll be able to get tags on it tomorrow and break in the gears.

I also installed most of the interior bits back in.

Pretty excited.

 

Thought I would post this



Took her out for a test drive and to fill up the tank. About 15 min each way, and let the rear gears cool for a bit at the gas station. She did pretty good, pulling 2400 rpm at 60 mph. Not bad, right we're I wanted to be.

More in a bit. It supper time.

 

Looks like you have a nice setup there. Great job on the runner, best of luck.

 

Thanks man I've been pretty fortunate.

The runner still has a problem with the idle falling down to about 450 rpms when it's warmed up. I can flutter the gas and it will limb back to 750 and stay there. Mainly happens when you let off the gas coming up to a stop. I pretty sure I don't have a vacuum leak. If I do it's pretty small. I'm pretty sure the dash pot is the main reason for it. I think the throttle plate is slapping closed to fast and screwing up the ECM. But I could be wrong.

Junk yard AFM seems to be doing well. Air fuel gauge has it idling just under normal ratio, and cruising at a solid speed it dances from mid lean to just over the optimum ratio.

Felt the vibration again between 48 and 60 mph. Convinced myself it was my homemade drive shaft. Until I got home and giving everything a once over realized I didn't tighten the lug nuts all the way. Felt pretty stupid. Torqued them down to 100 lbs. we will see how it does in the morning.

Torqued the exhaust manifold again after the run they all torqued to 33lbs real nice except the upper stud closest to the fire wall. It torqued down, but feels like its close to stripping also. Might just pull it tomorrow before it gets any worse and run on of the 7/16 studs in it. Picked up a few just I case this happened.

Packed up a little survival kit for the runners first trip to work tomorrow.

 

Good luck. Are you happening to be using a k&N air filter element in it. In my some cases the filter oil becomes a mist with the air mixture and makes the throttle bodies sticky and in this case the AFM. In bad cases it can actually gum things up in the tight tolerances of the throttle body.

 

No I'm not using a k&n on this one. Just a stock filter replacement. Throttle body might need a little lube though.