Your detail work has really paid off. The engine looks great. Great job. Hoping the weekend treats you great and you get to take spin in it.

 

Not as much done on this long weekend as I had hoped, but that's ok I'll take any progress I can get.
Tranny, transfer case, and shifters are in. Front axle, rear axle, tranny and transfer case are filled with break in lube, and the rear drive shaft is made.







Tomorrow night o hope to hange the exhaust, fill it with oil, antifreeze, power steering fluid, and start to bleed the brakes/clutch.

Maybe by the end of the week I will be able to turn it over for the first time.

Later.

 

A bit more tonight. Engine is full of oil, pored a qt over the valve train, filled a Toyo oil filter, and put some Lukas ZDDP in. Brakes are bleed. Went to bench bleed the clutch MC, and it was not moving any fluid. It was not leaking, but not moving any fluid. So I will have to pick up a new one. Shifter covers are on. topped off the rear diff, with the rear diff rotated up, it will take the required 2.3 qt through the fill hole. At about 1 3/4 qts it will start coming out the fill hole. So I topped it off through the breather hole. Then ran the breather up into the passenger side tail light. The high pressure line for the PS pump came in. Installed it, and topped off the res. it will need more but that will get it started. Need to pick up a few gallons of distilled water tomorrow so I can mix the Toyota red antifreeze, and top off the coolant system. Then a once over of everything and maybe hit the switch. Fingers crossed.

Later

 

Great job. You got to be close on getting it started. Wishing you the best of luck on hearing it run. Got my fingers crossed for you too. Enjoy the feeling of hearing it run. Took awhile to get to this point, but the satisfaction is unbeatable. Great job.

 

Very nice job, that truck is a top ten!

About your clutchhydraulic, it is usually hard to bleed.
When I replaced mine mc, I used about half an hour bleeding the system. It'll be easier if you pour fluid in the lines so they're not empty when starting to bleed. Will take less time bleeding as well.
Hope to hear you got it runnig soon

 

Well fellas she fired up last night. Got her through the 20 min cam break in cycle, but had to do it in 5 min intervals. Issues

First off I said a little prayer, hit the key, fired over nd died, did that 4 times got out to look and there was fuel all over. Cleaned it up, and had my son come start it while I looked. Fuel was shooting out from the cold start injector line on the fuel rail. Tightened it a little. Hit again and no more fuel leak.

Hit the key it fired over and ran crappy but got it up to temp, thats fine i know timing has to be way off. Then puff of steam start rising everywhere. Shut it off go look. The return line from the rear heater is leaking at the firewall heater switch. I HF tried to trim off the rutted out end of the pipe on the heater switch, and it's to short for the hose to seal to. So I just by pass the heater switch and run a hose from one heter feed pipe to the other.

Hit the key again, get it up to temp, and puffs of steam again. Shut it off go look, and one of coolant hoses under the throttle body is spitting coolant. Remove it, get rid of the old factor spring clamp, and put better hose clamps on.

Top off the coolant, hit the key, this time with the radiator cap off so air can start to burp out. Get it up to temp, and when the thermostat opens a fountain of Toyota red comes from the radiator. Shut off go look. Can't really see anything crazy, but have never had that happen before so a little worried.

Top it off again, put the cap on to the first notch, hit the key, get it up to temp, and puffs of steam again. By this time I'm getting arrivated and probably should have just left it alone for the night.

But go look and the other coolant line under the throttle body is spitting coolant. Check it, and the line is really loose on the fitting so replace it with a 5/16" line and clean everything up again.

By this time the motor has been through 5 times of getting up to temp at 1800-2000 rpms,
so I figure the cam is as broke in as it is going to get. At this point it will either be fine or go bad.

This whole time as soon as it gets to temp the check engine light comes on. Getting codes 5 and 7. TPS and O2 sensor. Probably just the TPS is either not adjusted right, or bad. I was not real happy with the readings I was getting as I bench set it.

So I start to time it. It sets at 5 before just beautiful. And doesn't idle to bad. It stumbles a little from idle to 3000. But that could be from the codes.

Oil change, head bolt Retorque, exhaust manifold Retorque, valve lash adjustment. And dial back the AFM to where it was at when I got it. It was running really rich, about killed me during the initial start up. And hit the key again, spark knock on start up, but fires up and runs pretty good. Still varying the engine speed I let run until it gets to temp and then seam from the lower right side of the radiator.

That's where I left it last night. Came in and went to bed.

The valve train I noisier than I would like sounds like a BT4. But that may be the nature of the best with this head. It's a stock head that has over size valves, stock springs, and a EB 268 cam. I did not build it, but my machinist gave it a clean bill of health.

Tonight I plan to remove the thermostat, do some work to all the coolant lines, check the valve lash/cam. Reset the TPS, install my spare TPS if needed. get a read on the plugs, and see what happens from there. I may advance the timing a little to see if tha helps the spark knock at start up.

I was really hoping for a smooth start up, and be heading out to get tags today. But I guess not

Later

 

Wishing you a big CONGRTUALTIONS..Even with the issues you had to deal with. Still had to bring a smile to your face.

No matter how many times I check and recheck, I still get leaks, always a hose or clamp I miss some how. I finally just start with straight water for the first 5 or 10 minutes of start up. The amount of antifreeze I have lost is unreal.

Still a big accomplishment and hoping today goes better for you. Congrats again.

 

Thanks man. The encouragement helps. I am sure it is goin to be fine. Just need a little tweek here and there. It did feel good to here it run. Ill try to post a video tonight. Ill be happy if I can just get the coolant system wrapped up tonight.

 

Got a bit ironed out on the old girl.

I took a couple of nights and just went through the engine top to bottom. I replaced all the factory spring clips I reused with stainless hose clamps. Replaced the coolant lines under the throttle body with 5/16" lines which are really tight. The heater core valve on the firewall was leaking so I ran the 5/8" hoses from the pipes into each side of the heater core. So once I get it on the road at least I'll have heat.

I ran my vacuum lines just like 4crawler has his run which eliminated a few. And made sure all the vacuum was run properly.

Pulled the valve cover and checked the valve lash again. It was a little tight on 2&4 exhaust, but not bad. All the rest were fine. Checked the torque on the cam gear bolt, and guess what. I had forgot to completely torque it down. Retorqued it to 58 lbs, and that took care of the motor sounding like an old diesel.

Checked the TSP, and it tested bad, tested the wires to the ECU, just to make sure they are fine. Put the spare TPS on it, adjusted out just fine, and set to spec. Then tested the voltage at the ECU, it is right on the FSM specs.

Fired it up and brought it up to temp, no more coolant leaks and it idles pretty nice. Still running pretty rich, and throughing CEL 5. O2 sensor circuit.

The idle does not drop off like it should when then the T/E1 terminals are jumped. It does drop some, but not right. I'll also do a continuity test on T/E1 to ECU just to rule out a short or open.

So Sunday I'll tear into the O2 circuit and see what I torn up.

I also need to find a exhaust down pipe bracket. The one that bolts to the bell housing. The exhaust is really noisy without it. And I can't find the original one.

Well enough talk, here is a short video. It's dark but you can here it run pretty good.



Later

 

Nice progress, must be good to hear that motor purr

 

Yeah man, it felt real good to hear it just perr today. I was really hoping to have already taken it down the road but oh we'll, soon enough I guess. Won't have a chance to work on it again until Sunday. But hope to wrap the engine up then. Later

 

Trouble shot the old 4 banger all day today. She is throwing code 5, O2 sensor circuit, and running way rich. Richer than any vehicle I have ever seen, even one with known bad O2 sensors. Pulled the plugs and O2 sensor first off to get a look at them. This is what I fund.




That is deffinately soot on them not any oil.

Those were brand new NGK plugs on start up. Probably don't have a hour of total run time on them.
The O2 sensor was new just before I took the runner off the road last year.

I went a head and cleaned the plug with some parts cleaner.

while I had the plugs I did a compression test to see how tight the engine is.

#1 - 180psi
#2 - 185psi
#3 - 190psi
#4 - 190psi

I was by myself so I, hooked up the compression tester, held the throttle to the floor while counting quickly to 1005. So it may have cranked more than the standard 4 compression strokes. I left the tester hooked up and pressurized on each cylinder for about 5 minutes, to see if it leaked down any. No leakage was noted on any of the cylinders. I am real happy with those numbers.

Then I did a continuity test from the O2 sensor to the ECU. tested fine. Then I thought that white/red wire I was talking about earlier might have something to do with it, so reshearched it more. As close as I can tell without tearing into the wiring harness it goes to the AC idle up VCC circuit. I grounded it just to see if it change anything with the rich condition it did not.



Like I said before it running way richer than I would expect from a bad O2 sensor. Even if it stayed in open loop mode, I would not expect it run that rich.

I let it run more with the radiator cap off to try and burp more air out, thinking maybe the temp sender had air trapped around it thuss giving it more fuel. I did get more air out of the system, but it did not change anything.

So then I checked the cold start injector time switch. Both hot and cold resistance readings were withing specs. I pulled the coil wire, and air inlet tube and had the wife turn it over. While i looked into the plenum. The cold start injector is spraying just beautiful. Had her stop turning over and watched for drips. FSM say less than one drip per minute. I only saw one drip in the ten minutes I watched it.

I also noted at the end of the day that the oil level on the dip stick seems to be rising. Only two two things I can think of that would make it rise, gas or water. There is deffinately no water in the oil, so I am thinking it gas getting past the rings somehow. Only way I can of is if the cold start injector is not shutting off while it it running.

Tomorrow I am going to order a DENSO O2 sensor, and pick up another oil change. When the sensor comes in and I get it installed I'll start it up without the cold start injector hooked up and see how it does. If all is well at that point. I'll hook the cold start back up and see if the problem comes back if does I'll know either the CS injector, or the time switch is bad.

Here is what the plugs looked like after a total of about 30 minutes run time.

 

be careful... running too rich on a new motor. The fuel can wash the cylinders clean and the rings will never seat.

 

Yeah I know, I'm worried about it. I'm pretty sure the rings have already seated themselves. But I am not running it again until the new O2 sensor is in.

Speaking of washing the cylinders, I tried what my father-in-law has been telling me for years. I installed the pistons dry. Only a small amount of oil on the ring compressor, and then wiped the cylinder walls down with a clean rag after the rotating assembly was together. Always told me the rings will seat on start up that way. I am pretty sure with the lack of oil on the plugs, and high mpression numbers, they seated right away.

But to much gas will wash the lubrication away and cause a ring to scar the cylinder.

Maybe by Wednesday I'll be able to turn it over again

 

To take my mind off the engine I bleed the brakes and clutch some more. They were still a little soft. I found the easiest way to bleed brakes.

Pull all the bleeders, put axle grease on the threads, reinstall the bleeders. Get 4' of 3/16 clear vinyl tube. Take a Gatorade bootle drill a 5/16 hole and a 1/8 hole in the top. Insert the tube in the big hole until touches the bottom. Put about 1" of brake fluid in the bottle. Put a 10mm wrench on the bleeder, put the other end of the tube on the bleeder. Open the bleeder 1/8 of turn. Get in and slowly pump the brakes, checking the MC about 6 pumps. Bleeds brakes fast, easy, non messy, and by yourself.

Also put a really wet towel under the MC to take care of any fluid you might spill.

Later.

 

Good deal

 

Nice build up and best of luck trouble shooting the rich condition.

I noticed an exhaust leak on mine causing it to run rich - retightened the o2 sensor and replaced the gasket on my header and all is well now

 

Thanks krawlin, It does not sound like I have an exhaust leak on the manifold or the O2 sensor, and I have torqued and retorqued the studs, they do loosen up. But it has not changed anything. I m using LCE's copper gasket, I could put the stock gasket in it and see if it changes anything, I know it does not take much fresh air right there by the O2 sensor to fool the sensor. Maybe I'll do that tonight, can hurt anything.

Later

 

I too have one pesky manifold nut/bolt (upper left) - backs itself off every week so one of these days Ill get a new nut and see what happens. I havent used copper gaskets on this 22re but have used them on 350's and never liked them. While you can reuse them and they never burn up, they never seem to be air tight.

on my 22re I've burned up 2 fel-pros and after installing the Thorley header I use their gaskets and they seem to be working fine.

good luck

 

Got the old runner pering like a kitten tonight. Once it was running just the way I want it, I turned it off and came in the house. Figured I would stop on a good note.

Anyway the rich condition turned out to to be the vain door on the AFM was stuck wide open, causing the ECU to dump wide open throttle fuel all the time.

Here is the tread I started on that?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...t-22re-245674/

At least I am fairly versed on trouble shooting the EFI system now.

I figure one more good night of taking care of little stuff and should be able to take it for a test drive and break in the gears.

If the wife lets me I might pick up a cheap Air fuel ratio gauge so I can get a good tune on the old girl.

I'll try to post a video of it running tomorrow.

Later