Outsane's 1984 4Runner Build Thread
05-23-2011, 10:15 AM
#81
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Thread Starter
replaced my U-joint, and looked at why my charging system was failing.. I think some of the connectors are loose, going to replace them and see if that fixes it.
I searched and didn't find a write up so I thought I would post one... if there already is a good write up then send me a case of New Belgium Fat Tire. Also if I get anything wrong please let me know for future reference as always, since I kinda made it up as I went along, peeking at the FSM showed I would need several SST's.
I started this thread got some good advice
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51723411
So here what was causing all the issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mURqhv-rKuo
Mark the slip yoke joint - to drive shaft
Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential, 4 bolts/Nuts 12mm bolts, 13mm nuts? I used a crescent wrench but they looked smaller then 14mm
Slide drive shaft off slip yoke
I used a flat head to push off the C-clips, I only had to use two flat heads once like the FSM states
That is a broken bearing cap
Probably caused by not being greased, since the zirk fitting is busted off
My U-joint separater kit, Craftsman sockets work the best for this application, mostly because they are exchangeable.
BFH! + kit + pbBlaster = movement
I have seen one person say you can grab this cap with a set of vise grips and yank it out.. didn't work for me. So I kept banging at it till it did.
Clean paint
Install new U-joint, make sure there is enough grease so the needle bearings do no fall out while installing. Same procedure as extraction just opposite.
I lightly tapped the clips in with a ball-peen hammer. After the new clips are in I tapped the U-joint to move the caps as far out as possible to make the joints buttery smooth. Put on the new zerk fitting and grease, if you got a greasable joint.
Makre sure to line up your slip yoke with marks, RTV the differential end. FSM called for 54lbs/ft on the four bolt/washer/nuts.
At least something is clean down there..for extra credit, what car is that in the background?
One more shot of my clean shaft
Far less reactions from the rear end while driving to work today, no shudder off throttle, no clunk while applying the gas. I plan on ordering a creeper joint from Trail-Gear for back up. The installed one is a greaseable Precision joint, $33 from Napa I needed to get to work and not worry about the u-joint breaking.
I searched and didn't find a write up so I thought I would post one... if there already is a good write up then send me a case of New Belgium Fat Tire. Also if I get anything wrong please let me know for future reference as always, since I kinda made it up as I went along, peeking at the FSM showed I would need several SST's.
I started this thread got some good advice
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51723411
So here what was causing all the issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mURqhv-rKuo
Mark the slip yoke joint - to drive shaft
Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential, 4 bolts/Nuts 12mm bolts, 13mm nuts? I used a crescent wrench but they looked smaller then 14mm
Slide drive shaft off slip yoke
I used a flat head to push off the C-clips, I only had to use two flat heads once like the FSM states
That is a broken bearing cap
Probably caused by not being greased, since the zirk fitting is busted off
My U-joint separater kit, Craftsman sockets work the best for this application, mostly because they are exchangeable.
BFH! + kit + pbBlaster = movement
I have seen one person say you can grab this cap with a set of vise grips and yank it out.. didn't work for me. So I kept banging at it till it did.
Clean paint
Install new U-joint, make sure there is enough grease so the needle bearings do no fall out while installing. Same procedure as extraction just opposite.
I lightly tapped the clips in with a ball-peen hammer. After the new clips are in I tapped the U-joint to move the caps as far out as possible to make the joints buttery smooth. Put on the new zerk fitting and grease, if you got a greasable joint.
Makre sure to line up your slip yoke with marks, RTV the differential end. FSM called for 54lbs/ft on the four bolt/washer/nuts.
At least something is clean down there..for extra credit, what car is that in the background?
One more shot of my clean shaft
Far less reactions from the rear end while driving to work today, no shudder off throttle, no clunk while applying the gas. I plan on ordering a creeper joint from Trail-Gear for back up. The installed one is a greaseable Precision joint, $33 from Napa I needed to get to work and not worry about the u-joint breaking.
05-23-2011, 11:29 AM
#84
Registered User
Golf.
I just yanked a shaft off of my DLX, for my 5spd swap, guess i should have marked it first, i think i can match it up, because it has been sitting for quite a few months...I'll just look for mother natures birthmark...rust.
I just yanked a shaft off of my DLX, for my 5spd swap, guess i should have marked it first, i think i can match it up, because it has been sitting for quite a few months...I'll just look for mother natures birthmark...rust.
05-24-2011, 09:09 AM
#86
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05-24-2011, 12:07 PM
#88
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Cute kid.. They dont stay little forever. Hopefully you are finally getting to sleep the wholenite. My kids were every 2 hoursthey would wake up to eat. Almost like clock work.
U-Joints is something that can go easy or can be a bear the whole way through. Just depends on how long they have sat or rusted. Looks like you got it whipped. But seems like the BFH always comes into play. Looking good.
U-Joints is something that can go easy or can be a bear the whole way through. Just depends on how long they have sat or rusted. Looks like you got it whipped. But seems like the BFH always comes into play. Looking good.
05-24-2011, 12:24 PM
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
Terry.. thanks he is doing pretty good, sleeping 4-6 hours at a stint at night.. not bad. The wife lets me sleep on week nights.
Its nice having a cali car, less issues with rust...
Its nice having a cali car, less issues with rust...
05-31-2011, 07:58 AM
#90
Registered User
Thread Starter
replaced O-ring on the highside AC line, may have stripped it...
I still need to vacuum the system
Remflex gaskets on Pair system
and old gasket on O2 sensor, why does a 22r have O2 sensor?
So nice to drive to work and not heard exhaust leaks..
I still need to vacuum the system
Remflex gaskets on Pair system
and old gasket on O2 sensor, why does a 22r have O2 sensor?
So nice to drive to work and not heard exhaust leaks..
06-01-2011, 02:46 AM
#91
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It starting to get hot here, and my AC isnt working either. It might be getting moved up the list. Looking forward to what you find on yours. I will get to convert from R-12. Im sure that will cost.
Yours converted already?
Yours converted already?
06-01-2011, 07:17 AM
#92
Registered User
Thread Starter
I converted already.....my ac was working last week but blew a seal.
Converted to R-134a two years ago, replaced a line, new dryer and a couple of new 0-rings, purged system, vacuumed down made sure it held, then filled it up and worked!
until it started to leak...
Converted to R-134a two years ago, replaced a line, new dryer and a couple of new 0-rings, purged system, vacuumed down made sure it held, then filled it up and worked!
until it started to leak...
06-07-2011, 12:43 PM
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06-07-2011, 02:08 PM
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Painting the truck was a great idea. Now I need to go find one for myself.
I never would of thought of using a Celica for EFI. I had an 83 and it came with a 22r, Im guessing an 84 would be fuel injected? I know they did a big change on them somewhere there after those years.
I never would of thought of using a Celica for EFI. I had an 83 and it came with a 22r, Im guessing an 84 would be fuel injected? I know they did a big change on them somewhere there after those years.
