Liveoffroad's '84 4runner build
#141
What was the reason you keep the crossover behind the T-case?
It looks really good, and it is nice to see it back to being close to stock again.
Are you any further with the thoughts of a turbo?
It looks really good, and it is nice to see it back to being close to stock again.
Are you any further with the thoughts of a turbo?
#142
i haven't looked into the turbo idea much yet but the wheels are turnin

i've got a big trip to moab planned in 2 weeks so i have a few things that NEED to get done before then....like the cooling system.
i appreciate all your advice!
#145
Leavin for moab right after work.... didn't get everything done that i woulda liked:
got 1-3 done, and also developed an intermittent starting issue that i haven't been able to diagnose. just gonna deal with it, i'll have another rig with me so i should be fine.
1. fix the heater slide-switch (switch is stuck and something broke in there.... i hate screwing with these things)
2. Replace the t-case mount with HD one
3. install my ss brake lines in the front
4. upgrade to 1" bore brake cylinder and possibly bypass the LSV in the back
5. build a spare tire carrier for my receiver hitch
6. swap radiators AGAIN to a factory 7mge radiator
7. build a front bumper
2. Replace the t-case mount with HD one
3. install my ss brake lines in the front
4. upgrade to 1" bore brake cylinder and possibly bypass the LSV in the back
5. build a spare tire carrier for my receiver hitch
6. swap radiators AGAIN to a factory 7mge radiator
7. build a front bumper
#147
I noticed that there was a lot of wheel hop in the front end on steep climbs. I believe its occuring because of this:

anytime the front end unloads, the leaves separate and "fan" out. then, when torque is applied, the axle wraps since the spring pack has nearly zero resistance at full droop. so i'm in the process of adding spring clamps.

anytime the front end unloads, the leaves separate and "fan" out. then, when torque is applied, the axle wraps since the spring pack has nearly zero resistance at full droop. so i'm in the process of adding spring clamps.
Last edited by liveoffroad; Apr 3, 2013 at 08:26 AM.
#148
Moab looks like a nice trip. How cold were the nights, the days looked perfect. I've been wanting to make it to Moab for many years; I will make it eventually. I look forward to more pictures.
I agree with your leaf separation theory, looks like you need to cllamp that section up.
I agree with your leaf separation theory, looks like you need to cllamp that section up.
#153
I'm at the point of planning the next stage, which is the front axle. currently my axle is completely stock except for the third. i decided that i do not want to dump any money into the mini truck axle (high steer, new birf's etc) unless i intend to keep it forever. the more i think about it, i really want a wider axle up there to eliminate the scrub radius that plagues these axles.
options are:
FJ60: this is a very appealing option since its the same width as the ifs rear and also is the cheapest of these options to buy. biggest drawback i can see is that aftermarket parts are tough to come by
FJ80: very good option, 8" HP third with e-locker from the factory. heavier shafts and birf's than minitruck, 63" wms only draw back is the price and the steering geometry.
Dana 60: Simple to put in, would have to have it narrowed some.
diamond: haven't got a quote from the company, but just talking to ppl who have them, i'd be looking at 1500-2k to roll it under the truck
TG rock assault: 700 for the housing, then buy shafts birf's, high-steer etc so prob in the same range as the diamond
I am on a budget so the last 2 options are out. I think the dana 60 would be fairly straightforward but i'd really like to stay toyota if possible. I've gone back and forth about the FJ60 vs FJ80 axle. what it seems to come down to is that if i want to keep leaves up front, the FJ60 is the better option since i'm not willing to spend 800-1k on the high steer kit for the 80 axle.
I've never done much research on 3-links but then i saw this:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...i-4runner.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyot...-build-up.html
This looks like a very affordable way to get a wider axle up front. basically just swap the whole front end of the 80 over, steering and everything. no aftermarket parts required. i realize this setup wont have 5' of flex, but i'm not building a buggy. as far as strenght goes, the HP 8" and beefier shafts and birfs should be plenty strong enouh for me. i've ran a stock minitruck axle with 35's for 1 1/2 years now w/o breaking anything, and i dont plan on ever going bigger than 37s. i realize things change when you add a locker to the mix, but i could always buy shafts later if i need to
well thats where i'm at for now. any feedback would be appreciated.
options are:
FJ60: this is a very appealing option since its the same width as the ifs rear and also is the cheapest of these options to buy. biggest drawback i can see is that aftermarket parts are tough to come by
FJ80: very good option, 8" HP third with e-locker from the factory. heavier shafts and birf's than minitruck, 63" wms only draw back is the price and the steering geometry.
Dana 60: Simple to put in, would have to have it narrowed some.
diamond: haven't got a quote from the company, but just talking to ppl who have them, i'd be looking at 1500-2k to roll it under the truck
TG rock assault: 700 for the housing, then buy shafts birf's, high-steer etc so prob in the same range as the diamond
I am on a budget so the last 2 options are out. I think the dana 60 would be fairly straightforward but i'd really like to stay toyota if possible. I've gone back and forth about the FJ60 vs FJ80 axle. what it seems to come down to is that if i want to keep leaves up front, the FJ60 is the better option since i'm not willing to spend 800-1k on the high steer kit for the 80 axle.
I've never done much research on 3-links but then i saw this:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...i-4runner.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyot...-build-up.html
This looks like a very affordable way to get a wider axle up front. basically just swap the whole front end of the 80 over, steering and everything. no aftermarket parts required. i realize this setup wont have 5' of flex, but i'm not building a buggy. as far as strenght goes, the HP 8" and beefier shafts and birfs should be plenty strong enouh for me. i've ran a stock minitruck axle with 35's for 1 1/2 years now w/o breaking anything, and i dont plan on ever going bigger than 37s. i realize things change when you add a locker to the mix, but i could always buy shafts later if i need to
well thats where i'm at for now. any feedback would be appreciated.
Last edited by liveoffroad; May 15, 2013 at 07:12 AM.
#155
#156
Grabbed some pictures of the finished exhaust, its already starting to rust after only being on there a month and a half. i think next time i get exhaust work done, i'm going stainless!
built this out of used scrap 2" exhaust pieces i rounded up. I learned its VERY hard to weld old exhaust tube.
Magnaflow glasspack into a summit racing chambered muffler (equivalent to the thrush)

I routed it around my rear shock using half of a "Y" pipe from a 1uz lexus that my friend was throwing away.



Here's the spring clamps i fabbed up. added one to the front and a second one to the rear of the front spring packs. this should eliminate the wheel hop i was getting

built this out of used scrap 2" exhaust pieces i rounded up. I learned its VERY hard to weld old exhaust tube.
Magnaflow glasspack into a summit racing chambered muffler (equivalent to the thrush)

I routed it around my rear shock using half of a "Y" pipe from a 1uz lexus that my friend was throwing away.



Here's the spring clamps i fabbed up. added one to the front and a second one to the rear of the front spring packs. this should eliminate the wheel hop i was getting

#157
Nice work on the exhaust, it turned out really good! You can come down and do mine, I still haven't finished running it out the back, lol!
I like how you did your leaf spring straps, I still need to do that with my front leaf packs.
You wouldn't happen to have a measurement of the clearance between the top of your rear tire and the lip of the fenderwell would you? (mine has aprox 8" between the top of the tire and the lip of the fender well) I'm just curious because your runner looks like it sits pretty level, and has a similar stance as mine, but mine sits 2" lower in the rear and I'm still trying to decide whether to go with 63" chevies or just by some rear lift springs... thanks in advance man!
I like how you did your leaf spring straps, I still need to do that with my front leaf packs.
You wouldn't happen to have a measurement of the clearance between the top of your rear tire and the lip of the fenderwell would you? (mine has aprox 8" between the top of the tire and the lip of the fender well) I'm just curious because your runner looks like it sits pretty level, and has a similar stance as mine, but mine sits 2" lower in the rear and I'm still trying to decide whether to go with 63" chevies or just by some rear lift springs... thanks in advance man!
#158
thanks ed,
i'll measure the fender gap tonight. it sits fairly level empty but it sags when its loaded. i still plan on building a front bumper soon, which should pull the front down a bit.
i'll measure the fender gap tonight. it sits fairly level empty but it sags when its loaded. i still plan on building a front bumper soon, which should pull the front down a bit.




















