Hey Terry!! Just getting caught up on your many threads!!!

I am curious to see how you like the Weber setup. I was thinking about trying to talk my friend (build for a buddy owner) into doing the same. The stock Carb has so much stuff going on with it, and I am such a Toyota Carb Amateur its not even funny!! I know the EFI so much better.

I just swapped an EFI engine in for another guy whose in the 86-89 section in 1.5 days. No sweat!!! This carb on the other hand.........is giving me a headache!!!

 

the asian carbs are a pain the steel shaft for the throttle plates eats into the aluminum base an leaves huge air leaks one simple thing of putting brass bushings in there would have improved them hugely!

 

Hello Mark... I don't know the Aisin carb and it is way to complicated for me. I have helped a friend convert several trucks from EFI to carb and each one that is done gets switched to Weber. They are 10 times better then the Aisin. So much easier to work on the truck with an Aisin.

I seen on the Build for a Buddy build and had thought of mentioning to you to install a Weber. Truck will run so much better. One pump of the gas pedal and it will fire up as fast or faster then and EFI truck. I will try to get some more information posted on installing Weber that I think would help you a ton. If you can convince him to got to a Weber, you will be surprised at how easy and better it really is over an Aisin.

I don't post when helping a friend on other trucks but have been around several trucks with Webers. They are great. EFI is good when it is working but once you start having problems with it, it is a constant battle. I got a good grasp on EFI but working on a Weber truck is a breeze. A whole different and easier world. If you can get the guy to spring for a Weber, he and you will be much better off.

Hello Cyberhorn... I remember you telling me about the wallowed out pivot points on the Aisin carbs. I have 3 Aisins in the shed, really dont know why I keep them but each one of them is wallowed out plus getting all the vacuum line routed correctly, they are a poor design.

 

It is now Weberized. I got it running. Still haven't got to drive it yet. I spent to much time troubleshooting the fuel gauge. It is working from the tank to the plug under the seat but is not working from the plug to the gas gauge. I tried a new SR5 cluster and that did not fix it. Go the bed bolted back down.

Things I still need to do.
Replace a headlight....done
Replace a tail light......done.
Finish getting the dash back in.
Get the seats installed.
Get another Ignition Switch. Mine started acting up and I tried to fix it and it went from bad to worse.
Get the correct bracket that holds the Throttle Cable.....done.

What it looks like now.

 

I was at the boneyard today and got the correct bracket for my throttle cable, got the headlights replaced and the reverse light. I did not have much time to work on it today due to working overtime, but did manage to get a few small things done. Dash is in for the most part. This harness does not support the tachometer but the picture below shows what is needed to get it done. I copied it off of my brothers truck. I will come up with something a little neater for the connections at the coil.

Mr. Justin came out and helped without being asked. I think he is starting to take in interest in cars. A few more years and he will be wanting to get his license. I started letting the brats know I am not going to be the one doing their car repairs but will help them. They will only be able to use my trucks once in a while and after getting around on a size 10 shoe, I think them boys will figure out real fast about taking care of the rides.

Starting on my tachometer and what is needed to get the tachometer working.
I then ran a wire to the negative side of the coil, on a carburator coil it is a little different then a standard coil you are most used to seeing. This truck didnt come with the SR5 guage so I added it. If your truck is not Plug and Play like some are, you need to run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the little "p" to make the tach work.

Then what I did so as not to short out the electrical run beside it. I placed a piece of electrical tape over the little "p" and crimped a wire to the smallest connector that I could find.

I used tape for insulation and to make my connection to the "p".


Run your wire to this point.

 

Was asked on the home page and a PM about fixing a fuel gauge. I don't use my FSM much but it does come in handy for more in depth problems. Will start troubleshooting.

Page BE21

 

I checked my resistance values with the above picture and they are off by quite a bit. I will check the numbers on one of my other SR5 gauges and see what they read. The gas gauge worked on this before so I am not 100% convinced that is the problem. I have found errors in the FSM before.

My readings.
IG-FU...65
FU-E....86
IG-E....78


I am sure the Engine fuse is good as the rest of the gauges are working and several other things would not be but I will double check. Not sure what this Noise Filter is and will also do a test light on the connector and see if I am getting power to the Sending Unit.

 

Thanks for the Info on the Weber Carb. I think that Im going to try and talk to him about possibly getting one.

 

Hello Mark... A Weber will make it so much easier for you. Make sure you mark your water temp sensor and a hot wire that comes on with the key for the heater in the carb. As soon as I get mine figued out I will post some pictures up. There are like 4 sensors that you can remove.

 

I replace my headlights. The drivers side had moisture in it and just got both of them changed. I had to hard wire my tachometer in from the negative side of the coil, got my reverse light fixed.

I had to spend some time getting the throttle linkage into the correct position and will post some things for it later on. I think I have a blown fuse that I need to look into as I forget which circuit isnt functioning but will get to that hopefully later today. Just a lot of small issues that I need to work on mostly detail things.

One issue I am running into is solid axle wheels are different from the IFS. I was going to use Mistys tires and rims but the offset is not deep enough. The SR5 rims require a spacer so will do some tire swapping around. I cannot find a gold rim to match the other three on there for now. I will eventually find a set of rims that I like better but for now will settle for what I have.

 

Glad to be back home in my own recliner and bed. When I was younger I always wanted to see what was over the next horizon and next adventure. Got that out of my system as I made it around the world three times, 28 countries, and 47 states between military and personal jobs. I have mellowed so much since I was younger.

Misty and the kids like the hustle and bustle of this time of year so it takes some prodding for me to want to get out and get into it. I did get to see a few of the guys that I went with to the sand box with and that was great seeing them. Putting on the miles seeing both sides of the family which there is always some great food at the get togethers.

Did nearly get into an accident as I seen a guy with frost on all his windows and sure enough as I got up close to him, he pulled out and I was able to dodge him. It was closer then I would of liked and hopefully it scared him into clearing his windows from now on. I do know of one Toyota that has some damage from the Thanksgiving traffic from a careless driver. Be careful out there. And Misty calls me Grandpa driver as I dont have it to the floor everywhere we go, lol.

 

The hot wire to the heater on the carb is not working. Troubleshooting showed I am not getting power to the green plug that connects to the carburetor. The black with the yellow stripe wire connects to the fuse box. Looking underneath the fuse box, it connects over to the relay. It is not showing but I have power to the relay but the relay is not transferring power to the other leg that sends it to the power cable to the carb.

I was able to jumper the pins where the relay connects and it powered up my test light. Looks like Toyota has different styles of relay from EFI to Carb and I don't have a spare relay for the carbs. Got tons for the EFI. I should be able to pick one up this week and have my electric choke working for the carb.

Will do some more investigating on why my fuel gauge is not working. I have some notes posted above from where I left off and is so nice being able to just refer back to where I was at without having to refer back to the manual and where I was at.

 

Not sure why it is not showing some updates. I may need to go back and add the previous post and see what is going on, this is more of a test post.

 

^^
This one is showing up

Nice work adding the tach

 

Thanks Robb... I had added some pictures to the previous post and maybe I clicked the wrong button and mess it up. Seems like base model truck with carb did not come with tachometer will not plug and play like the EFI trucks will. That little trick will get them working.

 

I am not getting power to the heater on the intake. I did some trouble shooting and the green plug goes to the intake. Where my finger is the wire comes to the fuse box. I looked under anther fuse box and the black wire with the yellow stripe goes to the relay. I was getting power to the relay and was able to jump to the pin the black/yellow wire and it powered up the green connector. EFI and Carbs apparently use different relays. I have plenty of EFI relays but no carb relays. I will pick one up this week.

 

I got some seats out of a 3rd gen runner and the front two bolts will bolt to the front like the 85 seats did. I had to use a spacer on the inboard side and bend the bracket more a little down. The front bolt hole on the outboard side, I had to cut the bolt holes off and there is a square that I was able to drill out.

The rear bolt holes, I was able to just drill thru the floorboard on the outboard side and on the inboard side, I had to cut a notch and add a spacer to level the seat. One thing I do like is the 3rd gen runner seats have the seat belt mounted to the seat so I wont have to mess with that.

These seats are really comfortable, have plenty of adjustment forward and backward, have butt and back support adjustments on them. I think they are going to be some great replacements. In the picture the shadow makes the drivers side look dirty but is just a shadow. The seats came out of a runner with similar interior color as mine but the seats look a lighter brown. I think darkening the plastic trim will make it look more factory. It does look light colored in the picture but is not so light when actually looking at them.

I still want to put on some bed liner on the floor for temperature an noise control and then will install some carpet. Not sure if I want light brown or dark brown carpet but will look on the internet at other trucks and see what they have and make it looks like it all came that way.

 

Nice work on the weber install Terry! If I ever get another carbed toyota, that's the route I will go, my last 83' that I owned, I had nothing but problems with the stock aisin. I like the new seats too, makes a big difference having comfortable seats, I hate driving my wife's durango for that reason, my backs still bothering me from the trip we took in it last week, lol, one of the down falls of getting older I guess, lol.

 

Hello Ed... The joys of getting older. I do not want any more birthdays. In my younger years I did not really notice a rough riding truck. Now if it does not ride nice, it will go on the for sale list. I don't want Cadillac smooth but it needs to be comfortable.

Go with a Weber over an Aisin. So much easier to work on and less problems. It cleans up under the engine bay and just removing a head from a carbed truck over an EFI is so much quicker. I can usually get an EFI motor to fire up quick but I think these Webers will give an EFI a run for their money. My 85 fires up quick and I still have some tweaking to do on the Weber.

 

Mostly posting this picture for Mark. Mine is set up a little different. I did get my shocks installed. The front end is stiff. A couple of my friends say to give the springs time to soften up. I will see what that does but if it does not soften up, I plan on going with factory springs and shocks. Another reason I really don't like my Old Man Emu springs and Rancho shocks is that it raises the truck height. I am sliding over the bolster in the seat getting in and don't want to wear a hole in the seat and beside I don't like jumping into a truck.


The above is a bad picture so I will try and get a better picture later. I have been trying to do this build right. I rebuilt the axle, new brakes all the way around, and new caliper. I got the calipers at the part store and now I have a leak. I did not order them off of the internet as I wanted to make sure I got the correct ones. Hope it is an easy fix.