Thanks for helping me out with that, I appreciate it!

Your making some awesome progress on your interior, I like how you painted the black trim pieces grey, looks factory! Hopefully next year I can tackle my interior, its not in horrible shape, but definately could be made to look better. Maybe this winter I'll finally tackle my seat reupholstering project, found out my wife's sewing machine is junk, so I need to get another one.

The Toyota front end wall display is a cool idea, especially if you get the headlights functional, that will be a cool conversation piece!

 

Your Welcome Ed... I sometimes wish I had not put 87 at the end of my screen name but since my 85 has an 87 harness in it, it is kind of fitting for me. A friend of mine is pretty descent in doing his own interior and got an old sewing machine off of ebay and is going to show me what he knows on interiors. I am looking forward to that and hope to get descent at it. I hope to get back on my front end wall art soon.

 

I finally got around to putting some fuel in the tank and it will start on its own now. I still don't have it running right. Vacuum lines, timing, valves are all needing to be looked at. I tried to make a video of it running but my phone some reason did not take it or Photobucket is not working like it should. Getting it run was a huge relief for me. After all of the trouble I had with trying to get the old harness of getting fire to the plugs, this will eventually be all down hill from here.

It is one noisey truck with just the manifold but it will start and run. Just wished the video would of turned out.

Here it is getting fuel poured thru the fuel float hole. My fuel float is bad so it will get replaced at a later time.


Here is where I am using my 86 Runner to locate a few wires.


I had to swap head gaskets on my brothers truck. Got it all together and running and his mechanical fuel pump was leaking thru the tattle tale hole on it so I will be getting it installed here shortly.

 

you already did the engine on your brothers truck ..thought he popped it an had to get a rebuild done or is that another toyota youve got a list of um around terry

 

Terry, You are the master-restorer!

 

Hello Cyberhorn... He did buy a new motor. It has a warranty and he figured since it was just the head gasket, that the trouble of sending it back and time wasn't worth the trouble. I pulled the head and was going to send it to the shop and the shop was closed from the 4th of July for two weeks. I didn't know that until I dropped the head off and had to take it back home as I didn't know they were closed. He might have been better off doing that but it was to late.

I am pretty much done with his truck. Later on he wants me to help him freshen up his interior like replacing the carpet and some odds and ends. Everything else he wants done is will need to be at specialty shops like striping or window tinting.

Thanks Ray... Seems like things keep coming up like work, dental, medical and everything else. Wife and kids go back to school soon and that will free up some time as well. I need a truck and not much really holding me back on getting mine going. Just got to get some free time to get to it. The motor runs, new clutch, very minor body damage left to fix, just needs a real good tune up of valves adjusted, timing, hoses. Interior wont take much and not sure of trannies condition ( I have a spare if need it). It is closer then it looks. I am trying to get it ready for next years calendar so I need get busy on it if I want to make it.

 

pinstriping with that roll stuff isnt hard at all i did it on my 79 but paint type yeah you need a pro

 

Hello Cyberhorn... I did that pinstriping on my flat bed and it was easy to do. It made a big difference and was easy to do. Was actually a fun experience and was the first time I had ever done it.

 

Winter is just around the corner and will be here before you know it. Last summer I did not have my shop insulated and the heat kept me out. Last winter it was to cold as it was a more bitter winter then we usually get and lasted a lot longer. I decided I needed to get off of my but and do some work on the shop this current summer and it did make a difference. I had a metal shop built and for about the same cost could of had a wooden shop built. The metal just intensifies the heat or cold.

I was asked on another thread if I was ready for winter. I sure hope so. I am on the hunt for a pot belly wood stove but in the mean time I will have a kerosene torpedo heater, a propane torpedo heater, and am to pick up a 8 foot or so wall mounted electric radiant heater. I am hoping with the insulation and the heaters I can work out in the shop this winter. Next summer I am going to work on cooling the shop with a descent fan or even an air conditioner.

Here is what I left to insulate and the propane heater I will use.


I had a new in box ceiling fan in the shed that I am hoping will blow the heat back down and still need to get some plywood on the roof and the end wall yet.


This is what I am using for the roof and the end walls. It is about 2 inches thick and will be covering it with plywood eventually.


On my North and South walls which are the longest walls, I have 4 inch fiberglass in them. I am covering them with 3/4 inch plywood. I am hoping with the fiberglass and plywood that it will make a big difference and easy to get the tempertures to where I could even paint in the winter. I did finally get electric, Yahoo!!!

 

This will be a entire different winter for you no matter how cold it gets with a stove,that insulation,and fan,you will be nice and warm work in all winter long!!!that's great work Terry!!

 

Very nice terry. Having heat is a must in the garage during the winter. I hate working in the dark and in the cold.

I have a kerosene/diesel torpedo heater as well that I use to heat my small garage.

Problem with mine is that it's way to large for my small garage. It gets so hot that I have to leave the garage open about 2'.

Definitely going to make a huge difference for you as far as getting work done on the rigs this winter. An you are right, it's coming faster than we think.

I need to take care of some more rust prep before that time.

I really think I am going to do the used motor oil spray this year.

 

Thanks kornhuskerwizard...Last winter I had cabin fever bad. Being stuck in the house is for the birds. I was determined to not let that happen again. Looking forward to things being better this winter.

Hello Gizzler00... It is cool for August here. Been getting more rain then we normally do and I haven't gotten to take the tops off of the runners this year. This is the first time in several years. Making me wonder what this winter is going to be like. Wont be much longer and I will start coating my trucks for the winter. So far it has been working for me.

 

I was swapping some parts from my 85 to the 86 truck looking for issues with the TPS and hoping I would stumble into something. One thing I did was to swap my AFM on to it and the 86 pickup did not like that. I run some test on my AFM and it failed miserably. Get another one on my 85 and I am sure that is going to make a difference on how it runs. I tried to take a video of it running but my smart phone wont send it to Photobucket.

I was looking for some information on if it is possible to fix my AFM and I found a thread that does a great job of getting it a part and at the same time shows other AFMs if you want to do the 82 Supra upgrade. I have a Supra AFM and will install it someday.

I plan on rebuilding Mistys motor this winter and have considered doing some performance upgrade and if I do I will install it then.

This thread does a better job of explaining and pictures then what I could do.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...d-swap-248705/

Ok so here is the deal. Did a bunch of research last month about doing an AFM swap from the stock 22RE to a larger, higher flowing 5MGE unit. The only AFM that is plug and play that I know of is out of the 1982 Supra or part number 22250-43110. These particular AFM's are not easy to come by in my neck of the woods. We only have one local junk yard and they charge almost retail pricing for their stuff. I resorted to looking at Ebay and other places online. To say the least, the 82 Supra AFM's come at a small premium. I found out that you could swap the circuit boards out of your stock AFM into a larger one from a different year 5MGE and it would work. So I did, and it works Flawlessly.

To clear up anything I said above, this is for converting a NON 1982 5MGE AFM out of a 1983 and up Supra or mid 80s Cressida for use in a 22RE. As far as I know, this can be done to any year 22RE.

Here are the simple steps I took to make this work. I purchased an AFM out of a 1986 Cressida, which is identical in size and shape to the early Supras. Estimated completion time for someone with more than novice skills is about 30-45 minutes. I recommend a soldering iron, flathead screwdriver (skinnier the better), Phillips head screwdriver, allen wrench set, and some kind of razor blade or box knife. A needle nose pliers may come in handy for this as well.

1.FIRST! Plug in your soldering iron!!! Set it too the side. Cut the silicone caulking used to seal the black cover to the aluminum housing. A strait razor blade or box knife works great for this.


2. Once the silicone is cut, use a flat head screwdriver or other prying device to GENTLY remove the cover. Do not insert the screwdriver too deep as you may damage some of the circuitry.


Here is a picture of the inside of the AFM...Pretty old school technology which makes this swap easy. Check out the two pinkish/red wires and the single black wire with quick connect spade terminals.


3. Remove the Pinkish/Red wires and Black wire from their corresponding terminals. A needle nose pliers may come in handy here if you cant get a good grip. REMEMBER to do these steps gently, as you do not want to cause any permanent damage to the circuitry or the plug body.




4. Next, use the philips head to remove the 3 screws holding the circuit board down. Set them in the black cover that is off to the side so they dont get lost.




5.This is where the fun really starts. Using your hot soldering iron, (I suppose you could heat up a nail or screw with a blow torch if you didnt have the iron, carefully of course) heat up the soldered connections between the circuit board and the three prongs that feed the plug body and separate them carefully!!! In both of mine one was a brass color and the other two were silver.








6. Next, using the razor blade, cut the silicone caulking around the plug body.


7. Remove the 4 screws holding the plug in place. CAUTION!!! Be sure to use the proper fitting screwdriver for this part of the procedure! I did not and ended up stripping out the screw and had to drill it out...not fun.




8. Remove the plug body (prying may be required).


9. This step is performed on a case by case basis. On one of my AFM's I had to do this and on the other I didn't so use your discretion. If necessary, use your allen wrench to undo this socket head screw holding the slider in place.


Move the slider out of the way, or remove it completely


The circuit board should be sitting there loosely and you should be able to just pick it up.


10. Remove the circuit board and set it on the black cover along with the screws. IF YOU NEED TO LABEL IT, DO SO! You do not want to re-install the wrong circuit board so dont mix them up. Try to avoid touching the circuit board with your hands to prevent contamination.


Empty AFM housing.


NOW, Repeat steps 1-10 on the original AFM after removing it from your truck. Again, separate the pieces so they do not get mixed up, especially the circuit boards since this is what we want!

11. Take the circuit board that came out of the truck's AFM, and place it in the AFM out of the Cressida or Supra AFM and screw it back into place.

12. Replace the slider assembly if you had to remove it.

13. Reinsert the plug body into the AFM and screw it into place. Make sure the three soldered prongs line up on their corresponding pads on the circuit board.


Now, the connectors that you unsoldered are very flimsy so gently move them back into place using the screwdriver or other prodding device you have.

14. Using the soldering iron and some wire, re-solder the connections between the circuit board and the plug body


DOUBLE CHECK that your connectors do not contact each other. If they do, your AFM will not function properly therefore your truck will run like crap.

Plug your quick connect spade terminals back into their corresponding spades and you are finished with the swap!

How you re-rout your intake tubing is up to you. If you want, this is a great time to work on the battery position swap which greatly shortens your intake path and I hear that is a great mod. I used some universal parts made by spectre to complete my mod and have been really happy.

If you follow these steps explicitly, you should have no issues as I did.

Some notes:
Do this in a well lit area, and preferably, mostly sober...
I leaned out my AFM after installation after noticing that my truck started running really rich.
Be sure to use a good high flow air filter...not that anyone would want to put a restrictive low flow filter on but doing so would negate all of the work you just completed.

 

thats a very interesting mod terry that with a larger throttle body ive seen kits where you can have an adapter plate welded to the intake plenum and the opening then can be machined to like half an inch or so larger the replacement body is common in junk yards an the connections all maped out what is needed for the 22re ecm

 

Hello Cyberhorn... I had heard of machining one. I wasnt sure how much you could take out. I cant see that being to hard to do. I really thought there wasnt much power to be gained from one of these until I drove Highluxs truck. He has the Engine Builder Head and Cam with an LCE header. I am guessing with a larger Throttle Body it would really get up and run. His is QUICK!!! Most powerful one I ever drove.

 

Been working on both extended cabs. I wanted to get my replacement fender out of the way that I got off of Highlux. It is in great shape. My old fender I could fix but since I am not going to be parting with this truck, I want as little body filler as possible. It is damaged in 3 places and is fixable. Rust free too so will keep it for future needs or if needed by someone.

Mine has some damage on the front. All bolts came out that hold the fender on without breaking in the capture nut. Yeah!!! I usually have one or two that break on me so that was a small accomplishment.


Two dents here that may not be showing.


Not sure what happened here. This is the way I got the truck. The mount is ripped away from the fender.


Got my fender off and here is where the drain is for the windshield cowl. Alot of trash gets into here. If it is full, some tell tale signs is debri behind the mudflap. Some surface rust I will take care of when I start on the body work.


I will be on the hunt for a new fender bracket. This one has been welded by a previous owner. Just found it was damaged.


New fender is on. Usually a pain for me to get all of the body lines back to where they belong to. This one was no different.


Only 4 hails size dings on the passenger side. There is two in on circle and one not showing.


6 dings on this side. All less then the size of a hail ding.Havent seen any on roof or hood. Wont be much if any at all. Rock solid body over all.

 

if the corner mounts been welded on an the tab ripped off id say shes met with a bonk or two terry
she is looking good

does it have them plastic vent window covers? i had those on a truck long time back very handy keeping rain out helping with ventilation i need to get some for my runner

 

Hello Cyberhorn.. It did come with the vent covers on. Still not sure if I will keep them on. They do come in handy though. After pulling the old fender off, it did have a tag on it that it had been replaced from Tawiain. I will say for an aftermarket fender and from Taiwan that it was a well built fender. I didnt see any strutural damage. Maybe I lucked out and it was just fender bender.

 

Been getting the 86 pickup back together and took a break to get my "Y" pipe out of the way. I had an old Celica manifold and needed the O2 sensor stud for mine. Was hoping to get the "Y" pipe and manifold togther but I dont have any exhaust studs. I will be going to Toyota tomorrow to get some. I assembe these outside of the truck and will not break them apart so as not to get any exhaust leaks. I will cut the pipe instead of breaking the seal.

The manifold I have on the truck now has a missing stud and would most likely leak if I used it. Never can get studs to stay in the manifold once they come out. I have a junk O2 sensor in now and am ordering a new one today to replace this one. When I get the new one in I will toss it to my 5 gallon bucket of busted nuts, bolts, and anything else and send it to scrap. It adds up quick. Always throwing something away.

 

boy they sure couldnt keep the o2 sensor in one place could they terry

that capa sticker means that fender is good as or better than factory metal an design so the fender though dented an ect still worth keeping an fixing for a later project