That was NOT long winded, Sir! IT WAS THOROUGH! I think I can say I'm well practiced at that! lol.

GREAT NEWS! Congratz!

I scored today at Pick-Your-Part.... I'll post it up later, lol. NOTHING like that ^^^, BUT STILL, pretty hard to find stuff, lol.

 

nice- did you get the D/S's too or just going to have your other D/S lenghtened/shortened for install?

one thing I have always wondered about the 2RZ & 3RZ swaps is with more power how well the 4 cyl diff holds up...seems like going to a v-6 diff might be worth it, at least in the rear..I suppose it would be related to your driving habit

 

I hope you posted up some pics of your goodies you scored. I'll have to check out your build thread again, I've just been so busy wrenching/driving/searching for the junk I need to complete this I have barely had time to do much else besides sleep and eat

I was going to get the front driveshaft, but he was unable to locate it. Not a huge deal for me as I think while I'm at it, I might as well stack my original '83 top-shift case on the rear of this one and just get the drivetrain done once and for all.

At this point in the game I'm probably just going to modify the stock shafts to the proper length, but I'd eventually like to get some proper shafts made. That is without a doubt going to have to wait though. I'm already WAY over budget.

Good point on the differentials. I'm just going to have to run the 4cyl housings for now. There is absolutely no way I could afford to get a V6 housing, gears, set-up kits, locker, and labor to set it up. I guess this will be a good test to see how a freshly rebuilt (by Scotty@Additcted) 4cyl diff will handle the power of the 3RZ. I think it's going to largely come down to how it's driven. I'm pretty easy on my truck and I'm only on 33's. What my truck sees is lots of freeway speed driving getting to and from the trail-heads. Eventually though I would like the V6 rear end, with a IFS width axle.

Tore into the motor today. My loaner truck is unavail. today so I can't drop the block off at the machine shop. Other wise we'd be underway on the rebuild.

When I got into the block my worst fears were realized. This engine had been run HARD despite what I thought earlier. Whoever the dumb-a.... was who owned this poor Tacoma ran it into the ground. I'm almost sure it was a theft, as the truck hadn't been "wrecked" but sustained some body damage. The airbags were not deployed and the exterior/interior were pretty thrashed. But anyway.. I got to wrenching.. The cams came out and the cam journals are pretty scored. The oil ridden with shavings from the spun, then lack of bearing on the #4 rod journal really wore into every bearings surface. I'm not sure if the head is even worth working on at this point. But before I get all doom and gloom I'm going to bring it to one of the performance oriented head-shops in town who specializes in DOHC import heads and get his thoughts. If the cost of getting this head to OEM spec/quality is even remotely close to that of a new head, I'm just going to order up a new one and know for certain things are good to go and I wont have issues. Beyond the cam journals being scored, I thought the head looked ok.

I might be looking at a set of camshafts depending on how their journals 'mic. I'll probably do that tonight.. I'm going to have to find my micrometer set though. I haven't used it in a while..

Pulled the timing cover and componets. Nothing really stood out there, but I'm going to check everything per the FSM to see if I need a new timing chain. I'll be replacing the guides at least. They show a little wear from the ~150K the motor has..

When I yanked the balance shafts their journals are scored badly. The balance shafts themselves are in pretty bad shape with their journals scored heavily. On the exhaust side balance shaft, when I was pulling it out of the block the rear balance shaft bearing just fell out of its race. Not a good sign.. It look like that bearing spun.. I pray to god the race isn't out of spec (I'm relying on the fact the cast iron is stronger than the bearing material) but I'm sure the machinist can figure a way to plug that oiling hole since I'm eliminating the balance shafts anyhow.. While coming across this, I'm almost wondering if the balance shaft bearing failure isn't what caused the demise of this motor.. I can see that bearing going and causing a drop in oil pressure that would have affected everything after that in the oiling system. I've not scoured the FSM for the oiling passages and how the oil is pumped through the motor, so I'm not certain of this.. But it's a theory at least.

Popped the caps on the rods, and dropped the pistons out. The skirts were worn pretty good. No deep scoring, but well above normal wear. I'm fully expecting to have to do a .020" overbore. Not an issue. Pistons are the same price for all sizes so no sweat off my back.

Pulled the main caps and popped the crank out. Again, heavily worn bearings and I didn't even really look at the crank closely due to the #4 rod issue. I'm without a doubt going to need a new crank. So it got tossed aside. I noticed the crank didn't spin very freely. Not difficult to spin, but it took a little more effort than it should have.. I suspect thats likely due to the worn bearings and scored journals. I'm likely going to have the block line honed just in case to make sure the mains are squre and true.

In all. There is no way a "quick and dirty" refresh of this motor would be possible. It's going to require some heavy machining to get brought back to spec. This is NOT at all what I had in mind when doing a 3RZ swap.. But it's not the 3RZ's fault.. I blame myself.

Well never the less here's some pictures of some stuff.. I know you guys like pictures more than words

 

Love the 'words' too, buddy! lol.... GREAT work and QUICK, to boot, I might add!

Sorry, again, but yes, you'll know EXACTLY what you have!

 

Damn, no quick and dirty rebuild on that one for sure. Too bad people run their stuff into the ground like that. Poor motor didn't deserve it!

 

Just a quick note:

I took a peek at the design of the balance shaft, block and bearing that spun. Luckily even if the rear journal where the rear bearing spun on the balance shaft is out of spec, it wont matter... Which is actually a relief for me.

The way it works is the front journal actually supplies a groove with oil, and the balance shaft has a hole machined into it. The balance shaft is hollow so it fills with oil and then another hole is machined into the rear journal. So the oiling on that rear bearing actually comes from the balance shaft (which will be deleted in my engine). So even if the hole is out of round, I'm not stuck trying to fix it while it's suck in the middle of the block's interior.

I just hope everything else is "salvageable"..

 

A lot more work that I was expecting to find on this thing, but you are gonna have one sweet running truck when you are done.

OT- funny seeing 'Ranger' & Smurf in the same pic

 

I'm hopfully going to be able to get the block/crank down to the machine shop today and see what kind of damage ($) I'm looking at for the machine work. I'd like to find out if the crank is even worth working on at this point..

On a side note, I just noticed how disorganized and messy my garage looks! I have to admit it's in a state of disaster with this unplanned engine swap, then the unplanned rebuild..

I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the interest.. Helps keep me going

 

Yeah dude, this thread is epic.

Definitely makes me wish I had a garage again.

Fink

 

Waiting anxiously for the feedback from the HOPEFULLY-'TRUSTED' machinist! lol..... Best wishes on that, bud!

 

I'll update everyone as soon as I get word on what the machinist thinks.

Thanks Fink! It sure has been an adventure thus far.. And like the banner says, "... the adventure begins here".

 

Fink

 

I'm still a little "down" from the condition the motor is in.. But I'm keeping a positive outlook on this because I'll have as close to a new 3RZ as you can get anymore. And it'll be built by me, to my specification.

With that in mind I decided to turn some wrenches.. Here's what behold:













Now I just need to drop the '89 22RE tank in, run some fuel lines and that aspect will be complete..

 

Grrrr! The '89 tank is a couple inches longer.. I'm going to have to rethink some things.. Maybe I'll end up with a few extra gallons of fuel capacity.. We'll see..

 

i know it would be a PITA but now would be a good time pick up a u bolt flip kit and an upper crossmember like this one from dave's"
http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...ocate-bar.html
or sky's off road:
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=131

it adds about $120 to the build cost but it would help gain the clearance you need...
with a similar mount/u bolt flip kit on my truck I have 6-7" additional clearance between the rear of the tank and the shocks/axle:

ToyoSpearo and I are trying to figure out how to stuff a long bed tank into a short bed

edit: i think I can speak for a ton of fellow first gen owners...we are all jealous of your rust free AZ frame

edit again: I forget, I you running a rear proportioning valve? looks like the brake line has bypassed the LSPV

 

Actually thats a darn good idea. I guess with the current state of the truck, it would be a good time to address the rear suspension since I'm not very happy with how the rear springs of the OME kit are designed. Since I've removed a leaf from each pack in the rear they ride signifigantly better, and actually articulate some.. Key word there "Some". I'm still not pleased with them. They're perfect for someone wanting a bolt on low-key lift that allows 33x12.50's. In their defense though, with a rear locker I've never had a problem getting anywhere I take my truck. I'm not a "hardcore" crawler, but it's not a straight up mall-crawler either. So they've worked well, just not up to my standards.

So with your suggestiion I guess there's no better time than now to address the rear end.. I've got a set of 63" Chevy 2wd springs with low miles. They're sitting in the shed in great shape. I'd like to replace the bushings in them, but they're good to go otherwise. Another part of me is really debating if I should get some All-Pro/Trail-Gear springs instead. I'm not sure.. I will be going with some All-Pro/Trail-Gear 3" springs to replace the OME fronts and convert to Hy-Steer too. So I'm just wondering how the 63" rears will work with a aftermarket Toyota spring.. What do you guys think? I'm going to have to think on that one especially since I'm already way over budget and I've got the 63's sitting in the shed.

I'm definately going to look at the gas tank some more. As much as I'd like a bolt-in solution at this point, it's just not worth buying a tank. This '89 tank got thrown in the deal with the W56, so it's not going to bother me if I'm eventually unable to use it. I'll sell it, as I'm sure someone could use a EFI tank. But I'll hold on to it and see what kind of space I've got following my rear suspension modifications. I'll be following those threads you pointed out closely.

I'm VERY happy with the condition of my frame. The body is rust free as well! It's certainly not the cleanest/straightest 1st Gen (Thanks Slacker! ) but it's a darn solid truck, and one I don't ever plan to let go of. It actually came from Northern California just outside of Sacramento. I bought it from the 2nd owner who bought it from the orignal owner in 2005.

I noticed back when I bought the truck the LSPV wasn't on the truck. I imagine something happened, or it was damaged, and it was bypassed. I've not noticed any signifigant abnormal braking, but I'll address this at a later time with an adjustable rear proportioning valve. Many other things to address at this time

It's past my bedtime.. I'm going nighty-night!

 

That's a sweet project that will turn out great once you're done. I live in EP and if you need a hand with something heavy just let me know, I wouldn't mind learning more about our trucks. BTW, what did you do to your 22R? I may be looking for a replacement for a 20R and I also may be looking for an igniter/coil for one of my 22Rs.

 

Thank you! I'd love to have a hand! Right now I'm doing most everything on my own, but when the 3RZ ready for the reinstallation, I certainly could use a hand with the drivetrain. Even if you would like to just come hang out and shoot the breeze and turn a few wrenches you're more than welcome to.. We'll have to exchange info via PM..

I've got the complete 22R (minus carb/exhaust manifold) which still has a almost brand new clutch on it. I've got the L52 5spd transmission as well as the igniter/coil.

 

When are you expecting to have the 3RZ ready for install, more or less? That way I can start making arrangements. Also don't go selling your old stuff w/o giving me a crack at it, PLEASE.

 

Everything is already listed, but if you'd like a complete 22R and L52 5spd You could have both for $300. I'd really prefer not to have to deal with shipping such large/heavy items

It'll be a little while for the 3RZ to be finished. I'll update with another post later.. But figure around the 1st of the year.