Can you tell me where you got it and/or a part number? Thanks!

 

Napa, and I couldn't tell you on the part number. Sorry.

My advice to you would be to bring your stock one, or at least just a fitting from the stock line, and tell the counter guy/gal that you need a 12" section with a matching thread diameter and pitch.

 

Looked on Napa's website and found it, just a little bending and I'll be good go! Thanks again for the help!

 

Hey, ..... MISTER, ..... YOU GOTZ A HOLE IN YOUR TRUCKS CHEST! Hurry up, get newer version in there! lol.

Best wishes, J! I really wish I had a neighbor like you around, we could do projects all day long! PLUS, ............................you weld, right? hahahahahaha.

 

awesome..haven't done an Aussie repell in a long time. I went through the military mountaining instructors course and had over 200 rapells out of helos.
Pulling a trans and stuff after a climb is pretty good in my book

 

No problem! I am glad I was of some assistance. What was the part number for that line? For archival purposes?

I wish I had some good folks around here to wrench with. There's a pretty decent number of guys with Toyota's around here but everyone seems to have something to prove or just isn't too friendly. I kinda just do my own thing.. Which is fine by me But having a good neighbor to wrench with would be much welcome! Welding is about the only thing I can't do.. But I do have a buddy who can.. Too bad he's a Jeep guy.. LOL!

Yeah, It's been about 2 years since I've done one myself. When I had the opportunity to use my ropes, I couldn't resist. All my buddies were like "Uhh.. Is that really necessary?" I mean, it's not very often (if ever) you see mountaineers doing a Aussie rappel. Especially considering I could have just climbed down.. Or done a traditional seated rappel. But ohh well.. I was the one doing it.. I wish I had the opportunity to attend that school. Thats awesome.. Isn't that at Ft. Wainwright, AK? I was up there for 3 years.

Swap Update: Ordered all the junk to swap the oil pan over to the 2wd T100 3RZ rear sump pan. Cost me a little more than I wanted to spend. But I don't feel like sourcing everything used, since this is the only 3RZ I've come across in the yards around here. And something used (in unknown/questionable condition) would probably cost me close to what new goods cost. Not to mention I was going to have to get the gaskets, dip stick, dip stick tube and other odds and ends from the dealer anyway.. So I just went ahead and ordered everything up.

Got a little work done on the wiring. I stripped all of the carburetor and 22R related wiring out of the passengers side harness and brought it into the cab. I then stripped the wiring back to the heater core area and started removing the un-needed circuits. Cleaned out a good 1/2" or more of wiring out of the main harness just from all that carburetor wiring.

While going through all that, peeling tape back I couldn't help but think about running the 3RZ on a standalone ECU (MegaSquirt) which would allow me to tune every aspect of the engine. It's going to be a chore to wiring in a full on OBD-II system, and as it is the 3RZ has so much crap on it compared to a early engine like the 22R. I think the engine bay would look really slick with a "De-Smoged" 3RZ with just the required circuits needed to run the engine. Maybe tucking most of the harness out of sight so you get just a clean view of the modern, fuel injected motor sitting in the engine bay.

It would make the wiring almost stupid simple going that route.. But it would end up costing me almost another 400 bucks to do it. Not to mention the time to get out and tune it (ie: gas money). But if I went that route, I'd likely convert the truck over to run E85 ethanol... I dunno.. Decisions.. I'll think on it.. But I'm going to have to make a decision soon.

 

Nice to meet a fellow Arctic Warrior An Aussie out of a helo is more fun I went through in the early 90's, the Northern Warfare Training Center was based out of Ft. Greeley and the course itself was taught mainly at the Black Rapids Training Center. I believe mine was the last session in the old Quonset Huts before they demo'ed the camp and rebuilt it.
I was stationed at Ft. Richardson for 4 years on one of the LRSD teams. I would move back to Alaska in a heartbeat.

Having the truck with the bare minimum in the engine compartment would be awesome. Since your 22r was basically emissions free I take it you don't have to worry about too much about getting it check in AZ?.

 

I'm already subscribed, but wasn't getting updates. hopefully this post fixes it.

 

Put in a little time on the truck after work this evening. Nothing much, but thought I'd document for the sake of completeness.

Went to the yard and finished yanking out the interior harness so I now have the complete wiring harness from the vehicle. Also yanked the bellhousing off the W59. Headed home and fired up the pressure washer. Got the grime off the bellhousing was quick work with some high pressure. I'm so glad I picked that thing up a couple months back. It's proven to be quite handy..

Also removed all the stuff off the drivers side inner fender. Started gutting that part of the harness. I got it all stripped back to where it just enters the cab. It started getting dark at that point and I decided to call it a day.

I am expecting the T100 oil pan and other associated parts to be here tomorrow as well. I'll drop the Tacoma pan and check out the bottom end of the 3RZ. Hopefully things check out ok and look good as the top end of the motor did. I'm also going to start looking around for a 2nd Gen 2wd Short Bed EFI gas tank so I can start plumbing the high pressure fuel line and return line. I'm thinking about using the OEM Tacoma fuel lines for most of the routing. Just because I'm sure I can get them pretty cheap since I've just about bought everything else from the truck that is remotely valuable. I'd like to get this EFI tank, but I'm not opposed to running a external if things don't pan out locating a used one.

I'm also researching some standalone EMS options to run the motor. The simplified wiring and lack of OBD-II sensors/solenoids would really make for a "clean" engine bay and allow me some room for other goodies. I'm going to have to make a decision here soon, as the wiring will begin shortly.

Thats about all for today.. Just thought I'd share as things progress. Have a good night everyone.

 

Well I've finally got a solid lead on a W56. Man I can't even begin to tell you guys how difficult it's been to track one down in the SouthWest. I have searched Craigslist locally, surrounding areas and I got as far as searching in Denver, CO. I've even submitted "requests" to those online parts finders. Surfed car-part.com and wasn't really finding much for reasonable prices.

Well, I got a little lucky today and located a W56-C with transfer case and shifters. Price I feel is a little steep, but it's reasonably close (3 hour drive) and the fact it comes with a transfer case makes it worthwhile to me. I'm pretty excited about it.. I go pick it up at Noon this Friday. That darn transmission had become a thorn in my side at night worrying about not finding one.

What a relief..

On another note. Dealer called and my oil pan conversion parts came in.. I know what I'll be doing after work.

 

Fhewwwwwwwwww! LOTTA DIGGIN/N/WORKIN involved, eh? lol. It's gonna ALLLLLLLL be worth it, but yeah... quite the adventure on most 3RZ and 2RZ swap threads I've read! lol.

Best wishes, bud!

 

Well.. My happy mood has turned to complete crap.

When I got home I pulled the Tacoma oil pan and found that the #4 rod bearing is basicly missing. The crank and #4 rod are probably shot. I'm sunk now.. Now I guess I know why I got such a good deal.. Too bad the guy was shady and didn't tell me (assuming he knew).

I'm likely going to without a vehicle for quite some time now. Sorry guys. It just got ugly.

 

Ouch, sorry dude.

 

Budget rebuild, fresh bearings and get the crank turned locally. Hone the block yourself w/ a ball hone, throw some rings in there, gaskets and call it good. I know it's easier said than done, but in the end you will KNOW your engine is A-OK and when you're out in the boonies you won't need to wonder about the bottom end coming apart.

 

I know it's often a matter of having a spot/engine stand/ to work on it in/with... is that the deal? I'm sorry it's come to the arena that Yopar above has mentioned, but I agree.... if you CAN find a place and stand to work on it (hell, you don't even need a stand, really).... You could do this pretty cheap and quickly, buddy! I know my local favorite yard would have a crank, and I will gladly help you search for the best bearings for the money, etc...... But first, just let us know exactly where you're at/why/etc., ya know?

So sorry, man! SHADY is being kind!!!!!!!!!

 

justin, that just plain blows...sorry dude...

 

Well I've decided rather than save a few bucks and get another questionable used engine, I'm going to rebuild this one. I'm going to COMPLETELY go through it and build it as good or better than new. I NEED this one to last as long as possible. I cannot afford to do this again if I cut a corner.

Anyhow, I'm going to source a used crank (already have a lead on one) that is hopefully good to go. If that doesn't pan out I'm going to get one from LC Engineering.

The rods will be replaced with the rods from the guy supplying me the used crank. Assuming it hasn't spun a bearing or anything, The rods should be good to go. So I'll pick them up and have the machine shop pick the best of bunch for as close to a matched set as possible.

I'm going to go with LC Engineering's hypereutectic pistons with the teflon coated skirts and anodized domes. I'll have to 'mic the bores to determine if I'll need to overbore. I'll likely go with a .020" over if all is well.

All bearings will be the CT-1 coated for added protection.

I'm going to do a balance shaft delete. I'm not sure the condition of the balance shaft bearings, or the shaft journals themselves. I've deleted them in every DSM/EVO engine I've ever owned, and It was always a nice piece of mind to have one less failure point in the motor. I could care less about the "performance" increase.

I'll 'mic the chain and inspect the gears, and if all is well, I'll just replace the guides/tensioner for the timing componets.

The block will get the usual treatments.. The rotating assembly will be balanced and all journals will get polished.

The cylinder head will get a good going through. I'm not looking at any real serious performance work since this motor will be "stock" but I'll make a few changes just to help it breath a little better.

I'll get all the usual stuff done to recondition the head, along with a 3-angle valve job, SS (stock sized) valves that are swirl polished, and bronze valve guides. All stock valvetrain from there..

That covers most everything without getting into too much nitty-gritty. But hopefully it'll be a solid running motor.

Tonight I started tearing it down getting ready to drop everything off at the machine shop to get things started. In the next two weeks I'll hopefully have everything ordered to complete the short-block rebuild.

 

HOLY CRAPAGUWAIAH!..., .... that's a mouth full! hahaha

BEST WISHES, MAN! I'm anxious for ya!

 

Yeah.. I can be a little long winded.. But I like to be "complete". Thanks man!

 

'91 W56-C/transfer case and '89 fuel injected gas tank.. Two key parts located/purchased.