JustDSM's '83 SR5 Build up Thread
Oct 1, 2011 | 03:50 PM
#182
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 1, 2011 | 07:04 PM
#183
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Well I guess I can give a little update on the 3RZ status..
The block, crank and rods went to the machine shop. We were immediately able to see the crank was complete garbage and likely the #4 rod. We mic'd the #4 rod journal and because this motor had been run with essentially no bearing, even with all the material build up, the journal was still 0.015" undersize from even the worn journals on the other rods. Clearly this crank was NOT within spec. Thankfully I had already found and located another 3RZ rod that was used. So that'll give me a good workable set to recondition. The block was in good shape thankfully.
So we determined we were going to give everything a good cleaning in the hot tank and scrub everything down real good. Inspect the main journals and line hone if necessary (although they doubted it would need it) I was persistant it was done if even a shadow of doubt was present. The bores will be bored oversize 0.020" and honed. The deck will be resurfaced as well for a clean and true headgasket seal.
The rods will be cleaned, checked for straightness/trueness, and get all the treatments to bring them back to OE spec. They'll get new LC Engineering pin bushings.
The crank is coming from LC Engineering. It'll be a OE crankshaft, that has the mains and rod journals turned 0.010" and polished. The crank comes balanced as well.
Bearings are all Calico CT-1 coated for reduced friction. Each main, rod will get them as well as the thrust bearings. Should make for an efficient and free-spinning bottom end.
Pistons are coming from LC Engineering as well, I'll be using the "Street" hypereutectic pistons with the Teflon coated skirts and anodized domes. Again, to further reduce friction and keep the heat in the combustion chamber. *I'm stoked for these*
We'll also be eliminating the balance shafts. For two reasons. One becuase that'll be one less failure point within the engine, and the increase in NHV is said to be minimal anyhow. Two, because the orignal balance shafts that were in this motor had seriously scored bearing surfaces, and I'm not at all interested in spending the money to buy new ones ($140).
So all the bottom end goodies are ordered, and it'll be ready to be assembled once everything arrives! Pretty excited to get underway..
So now that the "foundation" is underway, its time to start checking everything for reinstallation, and replacing anything that is not within specification. So tonight I went out and looked at the timing components. Here are my findings:
Started on the timing chain. I inspected the chain elongation.
Specification (Max. Length): 147.5mm
Observed/Measured: 146.6mm
(No Picture)
Next was to use my vernier calipers to check the minimum gear diameter by measuring the chain wrapped around the gear and measuring the rollers in the chain.
Crankshaft Timing Gear:
Specification: 59.4mm
Observed: 60.66mm
Camshaft Timing Gear:
Specification: 113.8mm
Observed: 115.13mm
The Timing Chain Guides (Rails) did not get measured, as they'll be replaced anyhow along with a new tensioner. So the timing components are within specification and saves me a boat-load of money not having to replace that stuff. Thats a big relief.
The block, crank and rods went to the machine shop. We were immediately able to see the crank was complete garbage and likely the #4 rod. We mic'd the #4 rod journal and because this motor had been run with essentially no bearing, even with all the material build up, the journal was still 0.015" undersize from even the worn journals on the other rods. Clearly this crank was NOT within spec. Thankfully I had already found and located another 3RZ rod that was used. So that'll give me a good workable set to recondition. The block was in good shape thankfully.
So we determined we were going to give everything a good cleaning in the hot tank and scrub everything down real good. Inspect the main journals and line hone if necessary (although they doubted it would need it) I was persistant it was done if even a shadow of doubt was present. The bores will be bored oversize 0.020" and honed. The deck will be resurfaced as well for a clean and true headgasket seal.
The rods will be cleaned, checked for straightness/trueness, and get all the treatments to bring them back to OE spec. They'll get new LC Engineering pin bushings.
The crank is coming from LC Engineering. It'll be a OE crankshaft, that has the mains and rod journals turned 0.010" and polished. The crank comes balanced as well.
Bearings are all Calico CT-1 coated for reduced friction. Each main, rod will get them as well as the thrust bearings. Should make for an efficient and free-spinning bottom end.
Pistons are coming from LC Engineering as well, I'll be using the "Street" hypereutectic pistons with the Teflon coated skirts and anodized domes. Again, to further reduce friction and keep the heat in the combustion chamber. *I'm stoked for these*
We'll also be eliminating the balance shafts. For two reasons. One becuase that'll be one less failure point within the engine, and the increase in NHV is said to be minimal anyhow. Two, because the orignal balance shafts that were in this motor had seriously scored bearing surfaces, and I'm not at all interested in spending the money to buy new ones ($140).
So all the bottom end goodies are ordered, and it'll be ready to be assembled once everything arrives! Pretty excited to get underway..
So now that the "foundation" is underway, its time to start checking everything for reinstallation, and replacing anything that is not within specification. So tonight I went out and looked at the timing components. Here are my findings:
Started on the timing chain. I inspected the chain elongation.
Specification (Max. Length): 147.5mm
Observed/Measured: 146.6mm
(No Picture)
Next was to use my vernier calipers to check the minimum gear diameter by measuring the chain wrapped around the gear and measuring the rollers in the chain.
Crankshaft Timing Gear:
Specification: 59.4mm
Observed: 60.66mm
Camshaft Timing Gear:
Specification: 113.8mm
Observed: 115.13mm
The Timing Chain Guides (Rails) did not get measured, as they'll be replaced anyhow along with a new tensioner. So the timing components are within specification and saves me a boat-load of money not having to replace that stuff. Thats a big relief.
Oct 2, 2011 | 11:23 AM
#185
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 13,574
Likes: 72
From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Gonna give you a heads up on this, sorry if you already got one, http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1011551 2/3rz to w series adapter.
Oct 3, 2011 | 06:40 PM
#188
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 383
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Machine shop called today, told me the block has been hot tanked and the bores were good to go for 0.020" over. So everything's going as scheduled. Should be pretty soon that I'll have everything here and will start the assembly of the short block.
If I have time this week after work, I'll bring the head by the head shop here in town and see what he thinks. If it's able to be worked, I'll be so happy!
I looked over some things with the wiring.. I've got some interesting ideas that should make this swap unique to all of the 3RZ swaps I've come across thus far. Lips are sealed for now..
Anyone have experience or seen anyone review or comment on LC Engineering's cams for the 3RZ?
If I have time this week after work, I'll bring the head by the head shop here in town and see what he thinks. If it's able to be worked, I'll be so happy!
I looked over some things with the wiring.. I've got some interesting ideas that should make this swap unique to all of the 3RZ swaps I've come across thus far. Lips are sealed for now..
Anyone have experience or seen anyone review or comment on LC Engineering's cams for the 3RZ?
Oct 5, 2011 | 09:22 AM
#190
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 383
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From: Las Cruces, NM
As I laid in bed last night I decided I'm going to just share what I have planned for the wiring. So everyone on YotaTech now as a TS clearance! haha!
To recap a little here's what is done to the wiring in the truck:
I've gone through and removed all the circuits specific to the carburetor and the 22R ignition system. I've removed all the "dumb" stuff like buzzers for the doors that annoy me when I'm camping/wheeling. It was nice getting rid of that darn "Charge Light Relay".. The harness is completely stripped of it's loom/tape and still "installed" in the truck.
As last night I went through the (Tacoma) underhood fuse box and started cleaning unneeded circuits out of it. My plan has been to keep all the "truck" or body specific circuits so all the lights, gauges, ect will be just as they have been. I saw no reason to re-do anything as my truck had zero electrical issues to speak of.
Along with gutting the Tacoma underhood fuse box of all the unneeded circuits it crossed my mind to just wire in some aftermarket relay/fuse panel to save some space, since this thing is kinda big. But I thought for a few more seconds and reminded myself I'm already WAY over budget on this build, and I can use some of these relays/fuses for "other things" like my driving lights, rock lights, ect.. So I'll be using the tail light relay and fuses (along with the "PANEL" fuse) for the rock lights, and the head light relay and fuses for the driving lights. I like making use of whats avail. to me.. The Heater relay will be avail. for use as well for something else later down the road. Any ideas on what I could use it for? Might as well run the wiring now..
The ECU related wiring is basicly self contained in it's own seperate harness, with a few circuits coming through the IK2 plug leading into the interior harness of the Tacoma. I'll be integrating those few circuits into the rest of the vehicle wiring from that point. Within the engine harness as you're all probably familar with, the 3RZ has a boat load of wiring/vacuum components compared to our 22R's. So I've thought of a plan to clean that up a bit.
I'll be going through the 3RZ engine wiring harness and removing all non-critical sensors/solenoids/ect. Leaving behind just what is required to run the motor (ie: Crank Angle Sensor, Cam Angle Sensor, MAF (w/ Air Intake Temp), Coolant Temp, Ignition Coils, Injectors, Knock Sensor, Front O2 Sensor, and oil pressure (for my SR5 lower gauges). The entire EVAP box, and a LARGE portion of the engine wiring will be thinned out. Making for a very clean, low wire engine bay. It should look pretty hi-tech with the 3RZ sitting there and no vacuum hose or wiring routed all over the place.
In order to do this, I'll be constructing a "black box" that will allow me to eliminate these circuits and keep the "CEL" stuff to a minimum and if all goes as planned keep it off allowing it to pass a OBD-II scan. Armed with some specs out of the FSM, I've drawn up some circuits allowing me to eliminate the VSV's and what-not. This blackbox will be integrated into the engine wiring harness with a 12pin connector salvaged from gutting the Tacoma fuse box. This will allow me to remove/replace the box as needed to tweak it's circuitry to eventually get it all running without a CEL.
In the end, allowing me to run a "desmogged" 3RZ as we would know it while still keeping the OBD-II system "happy".
One another not so positive note, I took the head by Hobbs Performance Cylinder Heads (Awesome shop/guy! WOW!) and unfortunately my head is garbage. The first journal on the intake cam is scored pretty bad (4-5 thousandths). I'm going to need a new head....
Ohh well, I kinda expected to hear that looking at it myself, so hearing it from the pro didn't really alarm me. I'll tackle this once I get the bottom end done.
LC Engineering gave me a ring and said some of the bearings were backorded, but they'll have them to me in a week and a half to two weeks. Not unreasonable. I figure thats about the timeframe I'll have the block back, and get it cleaned and painted up anyhow.. So no real delay.
I'm being as patient as I can, but man I really want this DONE already
To recap a little here's what is done to the wiring in the truck:
I've gone through and removed all the circuits specific to the carburetor and the 22R ignition system. I've removed all the "dumb" stuff like buzzers for the doors that annoy me when I'm camping/wheeling. It was nice getting rid of that darn "Charge Light Relay".. The harness is completely stripped of it's loom/tape and still "installed" in the truck.
As last night I went through the (Tacoma) underhood fuse box and started cleaning unneeded circuits out of it. My plan has been to keep all the "truck" or body specific circuits so all the lights, gauges, ect will be just as they have been. I saw no reason to re-do anything as my truck had zero electrical issues to speak of.
Along with gutting the Tacoma underhood fuse box of all the unneeded circuits it crossed my mind to just wire in some aftermarket relay/fuse panel to save some space, since this thing is kinda big. But I thought for a few more seconds and reminded myself I'm already WAY over budget on this build, and I can use some of these relays/fuses for "other things" like my driving lights, rock lights, ect.. So I'll be using the tail light relay and fuses (along with the "PANEL" fuse) for the rock lights, and the head light relay and fuses for the driving lights. I like making use of whats avail. to me.. The Heater relay will be avail. for use as well for something else later down the road. Any ideas on what I could use it for? Might as well run the wiring now..
The ECU related wiring is basicly self contained in it's own seperate harness, with a few circuits coming through the IK2 plug leading into the interior harness of the Tacoma. I'll be integrating those few circuits into the rest of the vehicle wiring from that point. Within the engine harness as you're all probably familar with, the 3RZ has a boat load of wiring/vacuum components compared to our 22R's. So I've thought of a plan to clean that up a bit.
I'll be going through the 3RZ engine wiring harness and removing all non-critical sensors/solenoids/ect. Leaving behind just what is required to run the motor (ie: Crank Angle Sensor, Cam Angle Sensor, MAF (w/ Air Intake Temp), Coolant Temp, Ignition Coils, Injectors, Knock Sensor, Front O2 Sensor, and oil pressure (for my SR5 lower gauges). The entire EVAP box, and a LARGE portion of the engine wiring will be thinned out. Making for a very clean, low wire engine bay. It should look pretty hi-tech with the 3RZ sitting there and no vacuum hose or wiring routed all over the place.
In order to do this, I'll be constructing a "black box" that will allow me to eliminate these circuits and keep the "CEL" stuff to a minimum and if all goes as planned keep it off allowing it to pass a OBD-II scan. Armed with some specs out of the FSM, I've drawn up some circuits allowing me to eliminate the VSV's and what-not. This blackbox will be integrated into the engine wiring harness with a 12pin connector salvaged from gutting the Tacoma fuse box. This will allow me to remove/replace the box as needed to tweak it's circuitry to eventually get it all running without a CEL.
In the end, allowing me to run a "desmogged" 3RZ as we would know it while still keeping the OBD-II system "happy".
One another not so positive note, I took the head by Hobbs Performance Cylinder Heads (Awesome shop/guy! WOW!) and unfortunately my head is garbage. The first journal on the intake cam is scored pretty bad (4-5 thousandths). I'm going to need a new head....
Ohh well, I kinda expected to hear that looking at it myself, so hearing it from the pro didn't really alarm me. I'll tackle this once I get the bottom end done.
LC Engineering gave me a ring and said some of the bearings were backorded, but they'll have them to me in a week and a half to two weeks. Not unreasonable. I figure thats about the timeframe I'll have the block back, and get it cleaned and painted up anyhow.. So no real delay.
I'm being as patient as I can, but man I really want this DONE already
Last edited by JustDSM; Oct 5, 2011 at 09:25 AM.
Oct 11, 2011 | 01:13 PM
#191
looks like you got your work cut out for you. That takes some patience and persistance. Great job.
Sorry about the head. Guess there always some kind of set back that gets us all.
Sorry about the head. Guess there always some kind of set back that gets us all.
Oct 19, 2011 | 01:04 PM
#192
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 383
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From: Las Cruces, NM
It's been a little while since I've updated.. Not a lot to really report. I haven't even really touched the truck much in the last few weeks. I feel bad for it sitting all lonely on the side of the house. I'll get back to wrenching on it here very soon. I'm going to put the bed back on and gas tank back in!
But as far as actual updates here's what's new since the last update:
Block has had some machine work. They decked the block and were surprised at how much needed to be taken off. It wasn't straight that's for sure. But it is now.. Was told the main journals looked good, so I won't be needing to line bore/hone the block.
Pistons came in two days ago after a small mixup at LC Engineering. They accidently sent me 3VZ pistons by mistake. They prompltly corrected the issue and even had UPS come to the house to pick up the wrong pistons and over-nighted me my 3RZ set even though I was in no rush. Good guys! So I dropped those off at the machine shop so they can measure each piston and fit it to a specific bore by honing each one to size. No one size fits all here!
Crankshaft came in from LC Engineering yesterday along with the brass freeze plugs and EGR Blockoff plates. Dropped the crankshaft off at the machine shop along with the harmonic balancer w/ accessory pullies, flywheel.
Ordered a Trail-Gear clutch kit (think Marlin Crawler HD) from Scotty@AddictedOffroad. Once that comes in, I'll drop the pressure plate off at the machine shop too, so they can get the complete rotating assembly balanced.
And today I put together a list of crap I'm going to have to get at the dealer to finish everything up. I'll be stopping by there tomorrow after work or Friday to get this junk on order. I would be rather unhappy if my motor reassembly was hung up because I didn't have a simple gasket or something stupid. So I'll get all this junk compiled before hand and have it all ready.
Attached is the parts list
But as far as actual updates here's what's new since the last update:
Block has had some machine work. They decked the block and were surprised at how much needed to be taken off. It wasn't straight that's for sure. But it is now.. Was told the main journals looked good, so I won't be needing to line bore/hone the block.
Pistons came in two days ago after a small mixup at LC Engineering. They accidently sent me 3VZ pistons by mistake. They prompltly corrected the issue and even had UPS come to the house to pick up the wrong pistons and over-nighted me my 3RZ set even though I was in no rush. Good guys! So I dropped those off at the machine shop so they can measure each piston and fit it to a specific bore by honing each one to size. No one size fits all here!
Crankshaft came in from LC Engineering yesterday along with the brass freeze plugs and EGR Blockoff plates. Dropped the crankshaft off at the machine shop along with the harmonic balancer w/ accessory pullies, flywheel.
Ordered a Trail-Gear clutch kit (think Marlin Crawler HD) from Scotty@AddictedOffroad. Once that comes in, I'll drop the pressure plate off at the machine shop too, so they can get the complete rotating assembly balanced.
And today I put together a list of crap I'm going to have to get at the dealer to finish everything up. I'll be stopping by there tomorrow after work or Friday to get this junk on order. I would be rather unhappy if my motor reassembly was hung up because I didn't have a simple gasket or something stupid. So I'll get all this junk compiled before hand and have it all ready.
Attached is the parts list
- Flywheel Bolts (10) $2.21 (ea) Dealer
- Timing Chain Guide (L) $34.33 Dealer
- Timing Chain Guide (R) $51.79 Dealer
- Timing Cover Gaskets (L/R) $9.22 (ea) Dealer
- Timing Chain Tensioner $22.04 Dealer
- Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket $2.14 Dealer
- Water Bypass Pipe Gasket $2.24 Dealer
- Thermostat Guide Gasket $3.18 Dealer
- Thermostat Gasket (O-Ring) $4.37 Dealer
- Water Outlet Gasket $2.79 Dealer
- Oil Pump Rotor Set $43.26 Dealer
- Oil Pump O-Ring Seal Dealer
- Oil Pump Cover $60.55 Dealer
- Oil Pump Screws $0.70 (ea) Dealer
- Oil Filter Housing O-Ring Dealer
- Crank Angle Sensor O-Ring *** Dealer
- Water Pump $47.99 Rock Auto
- Cylinder Head Bolts (10) $6.18 (ea) Dealer
- Cylinder Head Gasket $48.51 Dealer
- Cylinder Head Rear Plate Gasket $2.33 Dealer
- Cylinder Head Freeze Plug $4.58 Dealer
- Cylinder Head Screw Gasket (x) $2.79 (ea) Dealer
- Sparkplug Grommet (4) 7.56 (ea) Dealer
- Valvecover Gasket $19.75 Dealer
- Valvecover Bolt Grommet (12) $1.98 (ea) Dealer
- Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Dealer
- Upper Intake Manifold Gasket $9.74 Dealer
- Throttle Body Gasket $3.73 Dealer
- ISC Gasket $3.39 Dealer
- FPR O-Ring $2.51 Dealer
- Fuel Rail Copper Washer (5) $1.23 (ea) Dealer
- Fuel Filter Coper Washer Inlet Dealer
- PCV Valve Grommet $4.05 Dealer
- PCV Valve Grommet $4.45 Dealer
Oct 19, 2011 | 02:49 PM
#193
Wow, I enjoy reading those lists more than the current James Patterson book I'm reading!.... Do I have issues or what? hahaha.
Great plans, buddy!
PS> Might call Putney's as they use MANY OEM parts and seem to be lots cheaper most often. Nippon HG for instance, 34$ or so? Just a thought.
Great plans, buddy!
PS> Might call Putney's as they use MANY OEM parts and seem to be lots cheaper most often. Nippon HG for instance, 34$ or so? Just a thought.
Oct 24, 2011 | 03:43 PM
#195
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Las Cruces, NM
Well, the first part of this "rebuild" project is completed. I've bought everything needed to have this thing back up and running better than when it left the factory.
I've got a replacement cylinder head and cams. They're out of a 1999 so a little newer, and only had 60K miles. I've asked the guys to give it a run through and replace the guides, seals, fresh 3 angle valve job, resurface, and cleaning.
The Calico coated bearings arrived today along with the HD clutch. So now I have everything at the machine shop so they can balance the rotating assembly. The bearings and the flywheel bolts where all that was holding us up from making some headway. No hold-ups anymore!
Should be a week or so now to have all the machine work done. I'll have lots-o-pics for the re-assembly.
I've decided to wait until the motor is installed to start merging the 3RZ wiring into the 1st Gen harness.
I need to now deicide if I'm going to run my orignal transfer case as a 2nd case (with the stock 2.28 gears) or what.. It makes sense to do it now, since I'm going to need new driveshafts anyhow.. Might as well do it once and for all eh?
I've got a replacement cylinder head and cams. They're out of a 1999 so a little newer, and only had 60K miles. I've asked the guys to give it a run through and replace the guides, seals, fresh 3 angle valve job, resurface, and cleaning.
The Calico coated bearings arrived today along with the HD clutch. So now I have everything at the machine shop so they can balance the rotating assembly. The bearings and the flywheel bolts where all that was holding us up from making some headway. No hold-ups anymore!
Should be a week or so now to have all the machine work done. I'll have lots-o-pics for the re-assembly.
I've decided to wait until the motor is installed to start merging the 3RZ wiring into the 1st Gen harness.
I need to now deicide if I'm going to run my orignal transfer case as a 2nd case (with the stock 2.28 gears) or what.. It makes sense to do it now, since I'm going to need new driveshafts anyhow.. Might as well do it once and for all eh?
Oct 25, 2011 | 12:42 AM
#198
Bet the excitement is building. When having to wait on funds or parts is one thing, it when it is just trying to get the time to do it is another. Wishing you the best of luck.
Oct 25, 2011 | 06:50 AM
#199
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
At this point dude, I would say go dual cases now.
You have invested so much time and money into it, what's another several hours and minimal cost? This truck is going to be on the road for years to come, so you might as well build it the way you want now, be done with it, and start enjoying it.
Fink
You have invested so much time and money into it, what's another several hours and minimal cost? This truck is going to be on the road for years to come, so you might as well build it the way you want now, be done with it, and start enjoying it.
Fink
