That pic is just great all the way around. Sounds like your days were great.

 

Well, you have just about gotten me convinced to do this in my 84 22R. I need another engine since mine is to tired and I travel ALOT in my truck and need a bit of mileage and reliability. I was wondering about your fuel pump... Can you PM the fuel pump specs and model? That and a donor truck/engine/harness are the only things holding me up right now...

 

Awesome work man! This is still my favorite build thread to-date.



Fink

 

Alright guys, I've searched everywhere for this GreenTruck guy and the only thing I find is this thread (which is friggin awesome BTW...good work JustDSM). Anyone know if he's still making those dash kits or how to get a hold of him?

 

your skills are slacking
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...338&highlight=

 

Apparently so...I was searching 'greentruck' instead of 'green truck'. Thanks for the link!

 

My eyes are shot. Just read 13pgs of this thread on my iPhone in the dark.
Awesome build man. Very clean work. You had a very well put toghether build , specially after all the surprises. End result is a damn near bullet proof drivetrain for the trails. Although I would swap out those rear springs ASAP. You are going to love those 63s.

 

Sorry for the extremely late reply, but I've largely been off of the forums since completing this swap. The fuel pump used is a Walbro 190lph universal external (PN: GSL-391). I used Walbro's installation kit, and some M10x1.0-5/16 hose barb fittings to connect to the fuel lines.

The fuel pump is large enough to support the fuel demands of even a V8 or a turbocharged 4cyl (approx 500 crank HP) so it'll work for just about anything. I've always wanted to supercharge this thing at some point, so I went with a little larger pump. You'd be more than ok with Walbro's 155lph pump.

The engine I used is out of a '97 Tacoma. It's the "Dual Coil" DIS model. Earlier years had a distributor much like the 22R/E motors with a external coil. They require a little more intensive install due to how Toyota routed the wiring, but easily swapped. In my opinion, the "Dual Coil" and "Quad Coil" motors are what I'd look after. Toyota designed the harness's in these years to where the engine harness is virtually "standalone" from the chassis harness, much how the 22RE engines are, which makes swapping/wiring MUCH easier. In my case where I got rid of the Tacoma fuse/relay panel I simply used standard Bosch 30amp SPDT relays and a simple fuse panel in place of that big bulky fuse box. For me, with my electronics background it made this swap as simple as installing a car audio system. More or less plugging in power and ground. *It was obviously more involved than that, but hopefully you get the idea*

Thanks for taking the time to read it! I hope you found it worth your time!!

The rear end has me quite displeased I must say. They're good enough for casual use or someone who isn't trying to go places vehicles weren't ever designed to go. But I do like to play.. So I'm gearing up to change them. I'm looking into going with some All-Pro springs, but I'm going to sit on it before I spend money on them being I have a RUF and 63" spring set sitting in the back..

I'll keep everyone posted. To those of you who follow this thread, I appologize for the lack of updates. I've not really done anything but change the oil in it, and fill it up with gas.. I've got 6-7000 miles on the swap now, and I must say it is HEAVEN. The truck gets 22mpg and cruises effortlessly at 70-75 and faster if need be. It's every bit as torquey at low RPM as my 22R and is so much quieter and smoother at freeway speeds which makes traveling to camp/climb/wheel MUCH nicer.

I'm most throughly impressed, and give many thanks to the pioneers who figured out this swap was not only possible, but easily tackled!

See you guys soon with some updates! Until then, keep 'em on all 4!

 

Thanks for the reply, I think. Haha! I'm done with my swap. Finished it last week, drove it 1000+ miles since Sunday... Runs amazing!

 

I'm jelly.

 

great thread! love all the pic's

 

Not much of an update, but I thought I'd mention that I've now put some good miles on the swap and decided to give the motor a once over, and verify everything is peachy. Unfortunately I found cylinder #3 to have about 50% of the compression of the others (140psi cold) which had me quite unhappy. I popped the valve cover and checked the valve clearances. What a surprise I found when 14 of the 16 valves were out of specification! One of the intake valves was actually hanging open which was likely the culpret of the slightly rough idle I had.

Well, a trip to the Stealership had me 15 new shims (I ordered an extra) for $122! Crazy I must say.. Thats with a discount of 20% to boot!

Installed them and holy cow the truck is SMOOTH now. I've fallen in love all over again! For the headache and cost of having to do a valve adjustment on a shim over bucket DOHC 16v motor, I have to say this was something I think all 3rz guys should check.

Ohh, also scored a Mini-Header on ebay for cheap!

 

That's good to know. I've put about 7-8k miles on mine and I have yet to check the valves. Can you give us a rundown of the difficulty and maybe even specs? I'm feeling lazy right now, so searching is beyond my mental capacity right now... Lol.

And how do you do it?

 

The main reason I believe I needed so much adjustment was the fact the head had a valve job done during my rebuild and the valves were supposed to be adjusted (shimmed) to spec as part of the rebuild. After now having spent the coin for the shims, I think the machine shop simply would have been upside down on the ~$200 or so they charged for the head rebuild given the shims alone were ~$120.

If your motor is all original it likely won't need the drastic adjustment mine did although it's quite possible that a few might need some tweaking. Mine was bad enough on the #3 cylinder that I was losing lots of compression and that had it idling a bit rough when cold. All that's solved now thankfully.

The factory manual suggests you use a set of tools, basically a specially designed set of pliars and a wedge to compress the valve spring and hold it in postion so you can slip the shim out of the bucket, and replace it. Toyota sells their specialty tool for $90, but I found a aftermarket version on eBay for $15. Simply due to the fact I had to replace so many shims I simply removed the camshafts and had complete and unrestricted access to the shims. Which turned out to be a blessing because they can be a tricky to get out of the bucket. I had to use a rather strong magnet to seperate them.

But to give you a little more detail, I'll elaborate on how I did mine. Which I happen to believe is a little more work, but much less of a PITA than using the tool I picked up. *This is assuming you've already measured the valve clearance per the manual*

Align the motor to TDC, and remove the valve cover. Check the backside of the cam gears and ensure the timing marks on those line up. The intake cam will have a larger single indented dot, and the exhaust cam will have two smaller indented dots. If they're not lined up, turn the crankshaft clockwise 360deg. They should now be aligned.

I then removed the timing chain gear, which is on there quite well I might add. I had to use a breaker bar. It's a 19mm bolt. You'll want to use a large crecent or similar to hold the intake cam while attempting to break that bolt loose. Once you break it free, use some coordage or similar and secure the timing gear and chain. I tied it to the hood latch loop on the hood to keep tension on the lower gear to keep it from slipping.

Once the timing gear and chain are secured, Remove the tensioner. Two 12mm nuts and it'll be free. Might need to use a little screwdriver to help seperate it from the head.

Next you can remove the cam caps from the cams. Ensure you keep them in order. They're marked but it's still good practice to keep them in order. In the event you get them mixed up, they're marked with a "I" or and "E" and a number to indicate it's position. The arrow is intended to be pointed towards the front of the motor.

Once the cam caps are removed you can remove the camshafts. Once you've set the camshafts aside, use a magnet to seperate the shim from the bucket. You'll likely pull the bucket out as you attempt to remove the shim, that's ok.. Just replace it once you've seperated the shim from the bucket.

Wipe the shim clean and use your calipers to measure the thickness of the shim. What I did was use a piece of paper and draw out a motor diagram showing the 16 valves. As I measured the valve clearance (before the cams are removed) I wrote that number down next to the valve that was measured. Then in the circle I drew to represent each valve, I wrote in the measurement I took from the shim that was for that valve. In the manual there's a table for the intake and exhaust valves that has the measured valve clearance vs. the old shim thickness. It'll then reference a number that corresponds to a new valve shim thickness that would put it within specification. I went through each valve and cross-referenced what shim was needed, and wrote that number down next to the valve.

Took the quantity of each valve shim thickness needed to Toyota and 2 days later had my shims. An hour after getting home with the shims, my truck is running/idling smoother than ever!

 

looking for the air cleaner kit you had on your 22r....is this the one?
http://www.lceperformance.com/Adapte...-p/1033010.htm

if so, it says that you need a body lift to clear the hood....you didn't have a body lift did you? How did it work for you?

Thanks, and a great job with the truck

 

That's the one I used. That "Warning" was not posted when I purchased mine. I can remember being a little bit upset about the hood clearance.

I was able to get it to fit acceptably well, but not perfect. I trimmed down the threaded stud they supply for the taller air cleaner assembly a little bit so there was only a thread or two left after tightening it down. I also replaced the wing nut with a nut with a nylon insert (lock-nut) to keep as low a profile as possible.

The nut/stud clearned the hood just fine, but the front edge of the air cleaner lightly rubbed the underside of the hood. No issues, but it rubbed the paint off after 10K miles or so.

Other than that it worked just fine!

Thanks!

 

I should probably also mention I was using LC Poly motor mounts too.. They position the motor in the stock location, but they did pretty much eliminate the rocking of the motor when it was torqued up. Just something else I should mention for complete disclosure.


Appologies if this is innapropriate but:

I've still got those motor mounts sitting on the shelf if you'd be interested in them. $30 +shipping.

 

wow man great built, loving this truck, im thinking of doing this swap to mines or go with a 1uz not sure yet

 

not interested in the motor mounts...i'm sticking with the stock ones, but do you still have the air cleaner assembly?

 

Nope.. Sold that long ago!