Dropzone's 1981 Trekker Build-Up Thread
#682
Grant Removeable Steering wheel
they will take a little bit of fab work, not much. The out side bracket will need to be tweaked up to horizontal. The other 3 mounts are horizontal. it will be pretty straight forward.Trucks seem to disappear on a semi regular basis around Portland..local member gary_the_4runner was lucky enough to get his 4Runner back a few weeks ago.
I have a couple of other methods to slow down/deter Oxygen Thieves but thought since TrekkerPaul gave me a Grant Steering wheel out of a truck he was parting out (BTW Thanks
)
I would pick up a Grant Removal Mount. Cheapest place I found was from Jegs. Ordered on Friday, got here today(tuesday) awesome service IMO. About $50 lower than Auto Zone and $90 cheaper than Grant's List price of $215 

I had an extra steering column that dunno why I tried it there first...anyway, install is easy..take about 10 minutes. Only thing is the horn wiring is kind of funky...I will probably do a floor mounted Dimmer switch as the horn switch because mine only worked intermittently anyway..
remove the stock wheel.
put the vehicle specific adapter on
put the locking adapter
put the wheel on the steering wheel interlock with the wheel..

put the key into the unlock position, push down turn wheel slightly to the left and it is off:

put the big bright red thing on to make it obvious to Joe Tweeker that he isn't just gonna hop in and drive your Junk away:

This Feature is something I am gonna love especially when I have my Half doors on(gotta build them first..
guess I need to clean my phone lens...quality of the pics suck..
#686
Hopefully have some new stuff for you to look at soon..
Still parked. Went on a long camping trip. Hopefully next week get some time to work on it..
#687
No major updates.
Went over to TrekkerPaul's and helped him cut up a cab the was junk. He donated the rear cab wall. I might be able to use this if I do a half cab:

Ordered a set of LED floodlights off eBay:


They put out a ton of light:


When I finally get these hooked up with my other led rocklight(8-10) all of them will draw less power than a set of 55w lights
Went over to TrekkerPaul's and helped him cut up a cab the was junk. He donated the rear cab wall. I might be able to use this if I do a half cab:

Ordered a set of LED floodlights off eBay:


They put out a ton of light:


When I finally get these hooked up with my other led rocklight(8-10) all of them will draw less power than a set of 55w lights
#689
I'll have to find it when I get home, it is not showing up on eBay app for some reason.
They are a little spendy @ $28 each shipped(from China, about 10-14 days shpping time)but seem worth it IMO.
Might get a 2nd set down the road.
I dropped one and it landed right on the lense and thought it might have screwed it up but not a scratch. Took it apart, it could use a little silicon where the wire comes into the housing but everything else has good seals.
They are a little spendy @ $28 each shipped(from China, about 10-14 days shpping time)but seem worth it IMO.
Might get a 2nd set down the road.
I dropped one and it landed right on the lense and thought it might have screwed it up but not a scratch. Took it apart, it could use a little silicon where the wire comes into the housing but everything else has good seals.
#691
Ian: here you go:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-10W-Wate...item3369094adf
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-10W-Wate...item3369094adf
#692
Put the Grant Removeable steering wheel security thing in today:

Put the key in, a slight turn to the left and pop off the steering wheel:

Put the Red 'can't drive this one' warning in:

I think this will be a great way to help me keep my truck around...

Put the key in, a slight turn to the left and pop off the steering wheel:

Put the Red 'can't drive this one' warning in:

I think this will be a great way to help me keep my truck around...
#693
had some time on monday so added some led motorcycle turn signals and an LED 1156 upfront:

crappy pic but they put out a ton of light:

also cleaned up a lot of the light (signal/running/headlight) wiring, not quite the rats nest it was but a lot better
found an idea for mounting my prelude seats used by SCToy:
will use something like that..

crappy pic but they put out a ton of light:

also cleaned up a lot of the light (signal/running/headlight) wiring, not quite the rats nest it was but a lot better

found an idea for mounting my prelude seats used by SCToy:
Originally Posted by SCToy
I opted not to drill holes in my floor, so I used the original mounting holes and put some new studs that stick up out of the floor using this stock steel.


#696
not hardened at all. just grade 5. you can use grade 8, but i've never ever had any issues with grade 5. (that's after a fender-bender, a day of off-roading, and a couple thousand miles. oh, and all weights of people)... grade 8 would be nice, but you'll be hard-pressed to find grade 8 carriage bolts. i found them in either packs of 500 for $300+ or non-existant. that's the main reason for not using grade 8.
(and never mind the bad welding. i had the visor turned way too dark)
(and never mind the bad welding. i had the visor turned way too dark)
#697
IFS Rear end Prep
picked up an IFS rear end from TrekkerPaul and did the tear down this afternoon.
I had heard of the studs for the third member unscrewing before but never had it happen to me before:

i will either order one of these diff stud eliminator kits from T-G


but the local Ace Hardware has an awesome metric selection so I will probably be able to do my own for about $10-12
pulled the axles and at first thought frigging great, bearings are crap:


turned out to be some very fresh grease used when the bearings had been replaced recently...cleaned it up and they are in awesome shape
the e-brake pivot moves very freely. I am half way tempted to check the conditions of the brakes and maybe just run the IFS axle as is (with my 5.29 third of course
) the 86-95 rear drums are massive compared to the stock 1st gen drums:

yes, somebody pried on the backing plates, but it appears to be a BFH'able repair..
I need to get off my butt and get the rear disks mounted sometime though...
I had heard of the studs for the third member unscrewing before but never had it happen to me before:

i will either order one of these diff stud eliminator kits from T-G


but the local Ace Hardware has an awesome metric selection so I will probably be able to do my own for about $10-12

pulled the axles and at first thought frigging great, bearings are crap:


turned out to be some very fresh grease used when the bearings had been replaced recently...cleaned it up and they are in awesome shape

the e-brake pivot moves very freely. I am half way tempted to check the conditions of the brakes and maybe just run the IFS axle as is (with my 5.29 third of course
) the 86-95 rear drums are massive compared to the stock 1st gen drums:
yes, somebody pried on the backing plates, but it appears to be a BFH'able repair..
I need to get off my butt and get the rear disks mounted sometime though...
#698
nice trekker dude, i came close to buying one i think it was a 81 and it was near portland too, yellow and it ran the baja 500 in the 80's, they wanted 1500 for it, had a full cage, 4 point harness's, and a bunch of other stuff, just needed restored
#699
I believe that another local guy bought the Trekker you are talking about. Rolled it and ended up going to Idaho to pick up a replacement trekker back half for it.
#700
If the flasher doesn't fix it..
Normal incandescent bulbs carry a load, in which the system measures. LEDs.. not so much. If you add a resistor inline with the LED lights to achieve the correct intensity, then it will think an incandescent bulb is still hooked up.
Fast flashing is typically representative of the system telling you a bulb is out, IE no resistance. Although I'm new to 1st gens, that's just typically how it works.
Normal incandescent bulbs carry a load, in which the system measures. LEDs.. not so much. If you add a resistor inline with the LED lights to achieve the correct intensity, then it will think an incandescent bulb is still hooked up.
Fast flashing is typically representative of the system telling you a bulb is out, IE no resistance. Although I'm new to 1st gens, that's just typically how it works.
Last edited by neockder; Sep 10, 2011 at 08:21 PM.








