This is what I use my seals around gear oil:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-maker-detail

Also here is some pictures

gasket scraped off:


rtv on:


and new (to me) 3rd member:



Now I have a curious question. If I spin either of the wheels the flange on the 3rd doesn't move. But If I spin the flange the wheel turn. A friend says it is a posi-lok 3rd. How does this thing operate??

 

Ok not a posi because that has to have a cable to engage it. When I spin the yoke both wheels spin forward. When I spin the left wheel forward the right wheel spins backwards. Yoke doesn't move.

 

That's typical of an Open/Standard carrier differential. If you have both wheels off the ground and turn one, the other will turn the opposite direction and the pinion will remain still. But if you turn a wheel while holding the other still or turning it in the same direction, you'll see the pinion move.

 

Made some progress on the drums today. Started with the drivers side and got it all torn down. Took a small wire wheel on a drill to the back plate and then hit it with the rust paint.





The parking brake lever was pretty much stuck in place unless I put a lot of force on it. I'm wondering if the parking brake was dragging on this side. I got it freed up and put back on.



Here is the new shoes and a new brake hardware kit.



I shot the drum with some gloss black paint.



Decided to go ahead and swap flanges on the 3rds. Figured it was the right thing to do instead of drilling a new set of holes. I already had a new stake nut for it and I went and bought a new seal. Drive shaft is back on too and it was a PITA! I ran the truck while the back is still on jacks and I didn't hear any bad noises coming from the 3rd or notice any leaks.

 

Were you able to slide the axle shafts out?

 

Yes once I took the bolts out they slid right out.

 

Hey everyone, I've always wanted to get a bad ass Toyota pickup like these. I need one has a daily / hauler for my project car.

How well do they tow? I've heard from a few people they don't tow well, and from other's that they do fine. What do you guys think?

 

First, Welcome to YotaTech. Second, don't hijack other people's threads with off topic questions. You can start your own thread in the newbie section:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/

Your question will get more exposure and dedicated answers there. There is a lot of information on this forum and tons of people willing to help... if you ask in the appropriate sections and follow the rules.

 

Today was a good day. I finished the right side drum, got the wheels on, new speedometer cable installed and went for a test drive. The new gears drove well, didn't make any noises, no leaks, and now my speedometer is correct lol. Next up one day is new rotors and calipers.

 

I also forgot to mention my parking brake is like a whole new animal lol. I used to have to pull the handle all the way back to the last click to get the truck to stay still on a some-what flat surface. Anything with a good incline and I had to put something behind a tire. But now I can only pull the handle back about half before it gets very tough and the truck doesn't move for sure now.


Took a couple pictures yesterday with my friend.

 

I finally worked on the whole in the back of my cab I have been neglecting.



I had some flat metal that was a little thicker than the cab metal I used to try and patch it.



I think it came out pretty good. Getting better about the arc from the welder being more constant and not flickering so much. Wasn't sure to patch the factory hole or not so I just trimmed the plug and put it back in. Might re-work my cb antenna cable to come out that hole.

I also should be getting my other bed put on this afternoon so I can work on it. I flipped my old bed off yesterday and when I did one of the panels almost broke off around the rust.

 

Came to a big realization today. I got my other truck bed swapped on and realized the lower panels were in a lot worse shape than I thought. I simply don't have the skills or tools to do all this major dent repair. My next thought was to swap over the panels off my old truck bed (they had minor rust repair but no dents) onto this new one but I just tried to remove a panel and buggered it up pretty good. I can't figure out how to remove them properly. This just sucks.

 

I have never seen these beds but are there spotwelds than you can drill out? Maybe take a look at toyotafiberglass' bed panels it might give you an idea where to cut. good luck the truck looks great!

 

That's the only thing I left to try it looks like. I have talked to Corey about the panel separation and he said they are spot welded. From what J can tell it was done from underneath. They are pretty hard to see with all that bed liner crap on the bottom side from the factory and I can't get a grinder on every single part of the bed under neath. I have looked at some spot weld drillers on Amazon and it looks like I will need a very small drill or right angle drill to try and drill them out straight because the lower lip of the body panel gets in the way of a normal sizes drill.

 

been there!!

 

I think I'm gonna try these products:

http://www.eastwood.com/spotweld-drill-3-8-pro.html

http://www.eastwood.com/90-degree-seam-buster.html

 

Me too...I found it's cheaper, faster, and totally solved of rust issues to buy a fiberglass bed.



What ever your do...keep at it. Your bringing her back to life...

 

I forgot I ordered these from low range off road and a new 22R valve cover sticker:



I put the rear one on but haven't done the front yet. I think I was more excited for the sticker sheet they sent of their logo lol

 

if your removing the skirts from the old bed .. why not cut wider then you need ? cut the whole side off if you can , then you can set it up into a better position , and start removing the sheet metal you don't want , getting the final product , the skirts , you do want .

also .. just to let people know , above pictured fiberglass bed , is not our product

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