83Toyota88's 1983 Pickup Build-Up Thread
#545
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Got the weber in today. Still waiting on the regulator. I have the weber in stalled all but the fuel lines. I need to get two different bolts for the linkage assembly. The kit came with spacers to raise the stock linkage assembly but the bolts it came with are both wrong. One is too long and one is too short. I'm gonna pick those up tomorrow along with fittings for the regulator.


#547
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I think so too. I just looked through your de-smog tutorial and I need the barb fitting that goes into intake manifold. Also I noticed I am missing a plug. Where the fitting is for the gas hose to go to the weber it's kinda y-shaped. The bottom has a plug but the other side is missing a plug.
#548
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Ok well I have vacuum leaks everywhere lol. I can drive the truck but if I spray carb cleaner in a few certain spots the idle will change. This biggest leak I have had to deal with is the piece that bolts onto the intake manifold where the tube connects to the rear port on the valve cover. That plate will not seal up properly. Im gonna see about ordering the LCE spiral adapter this weekend and at least fix those leaks. As for the other thing I may take if off when I put the LCE adapter to where I can see it better from all side and seal the piss out of it with some gasket maker/RTV.
I also have a block off plate that I had on there from my de-smog and I wondering If I can take it somewhere and have a hole tapped in it. Its a nice thick piece. Not a cheap, thin piece of brass.
I also have a block off plate that I had on there from my de-smog and I wondering If I can take it somewhere and have a hole tapped in it. Its a nice thick piece. Not a cheap, thin piece of brass.
#549
That redline adapter that comes with the weber is known to leak, should fix it with the lce piece no need to rtv the ˟˟˟˟ out of it, just do the right tightening sequence to the right torque with a little threadlock and you'll be good.
#551
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Finally decided to install the choke cable. I'm not gonna attach it to the carb until I order a new adapter and get it installed. Probably gonna go with the Trans-dapt one. I got the longer spacers for the throttle for it yesterday.

Also finally decided to paint my valve cover.
Super dirty before:

All the gunk removed. I really thought about keeping it this way.

Two coats of black paint later:

Finishing touches:


Also finally decided to paint my valve cover.
Super dirty before:

All the gunk removed. I really thought about keeping it this way.

Two coats of black paint later:

Finishing touches:

#552
glossy black
I like the black. Nice new 22R decal and exposing the Toyota lettering and lines. Good choice. Still waiting on the part for the vacuum leak?
Last edited by 83pingpong; Oct 12, 2014 at 06:55 PM.
#554
Looks good!
I finally got mine running right after about 3 months! Just take your time. Make a small adjustment and drive it a few days, check the plugs, make another. Eventually it'll feel right and run right!
If you do any type of offroad, go ahead and do the Hill Climb mod. It doesn't work great, but its better than before. Its a trade-off, but I love how simple my engine bay is now.
I finally got mine running right after about 3 months! Just take your time. Make a small adjustment and drive it a few days, check the plugs, make another. Eventually it'll feel right and run right!
If you do any type of offroad, go ahead and do the Hill Climb mod. It doesn't work great, but its better than before. Its a trade-off, but I love how simple my engine bay is now.
#555
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Looks good! I finally got mine running right after about 3 months! Just take your time. Make a small adjustment and drive it a few days, check the plugs, make another. Eventually it'll feel right and run right! If you do any type of offroad, go ahead and do the Hill Climb mod. It doesn't work great, but its better than before. Its a trade-off, but I love how simple my engine bay is now.
I playing with the carb while I had it off and I noticed if I pushed the choke plates closed they would stick. I pulled both plates out and gave them a light sanding on their sides and they seem to move freely now.
Also have a really bad oil leak from my valve cover gasket. At idle it doesn't leak but at a high idle, oil oozes out everywhere. I'm gonna order a new gasket for it. No idea how old this one is.
#556
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I got a Felpro valve cover and half moons off eBay and got those put on and don't have any more leaks that I can find. My engine was low 2 quarts when I changed it this morning. I had stopped driving it once I saw how low it was on the oil dipstick a couple weeks ago but should be good to go again.
#557
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Well been having some issues with my engine. I noticed the other day I had some light colored smoke coming out of the front breather port of the valve cover. At first I thought I had some blow-by causing this but I should have air going into that port, not out. Its a suction line off the carb breather filter. So if is pumping out of that then the PCV valve may not be working correctly. Also the dang valve cover is leaking at the front half moon again. So I gotta re-seal it. Also bought a can of Restore to add to oil to see if that helps with any blow-by.
I'm also getting terrible mpg. I drove about 130 miles a couple Saturdays ago I burned an entire tank of gas. Carb fuel/mixture setting may be bad. A friend told me about setting it with a vacuum gauge so I may try that.
I'm also getting terrible mpg. I drove about 130 miles a couple Saturdays ago I burned an entire tank of gas. Carb fuel/mixture setting may be bad. A friend told me about setting it with a vacuum gauge so I may try that.
#558
Oh man...
I hope I have better luck when I do my rebuild and install the Weber. I have to add oil every ~1500 miles and I see NO visible leaks, so it is getting burned up and tossed out the exhaust, but not enough to see smoke except on start up. Maybe that is more likely to be the valve guides. But it still runs!
I found a new proportional valve for a great deal so I'll be able to restore the original rear brake setup if I ever get around to it. The original valve leaks slowly and drains the brake reservoir enough to cause the brake warning light to show up every few months. I'm glad the warning light is working!
Good luck on the carb adjustment.
I have a Weber still in the box sitting there for more than a year now. I am still backed up on big projects (like-the garage got delayed by permit issues until next Spring). But the good news is I got lots of fencing work done and sawed up downed limbs and cleared things out at the ranch. Not before there was snow on the ground, but at least the sun was out!
I hope I have better luck when I do my rebuild and install the Weber. I have to add oil every ~1500 miles and I see NO visible leaks, so it is getting burned up and tossed out the exhaust, but not enough to see smoke except on start up. Maybe that is more likely to be the valve guides. But it still runs!
I found a new proportional valve for a great deal so I'll be able to restore the original rear brake setup if I ever get around to it. The original valve leaks slowly and drains the brake reservoir enough to cause the brake warning light to show up every few months. I'm glad the warning light is working!
Good luck on the carb adjustment.
I have a Weber still in the box sitting there for more than a year now. I am still backed up on big projects (like-the garage got delayed by permit issues until next Spring). But the good news is I got lots of fencing work done and sawed up downed limbs and cleared things out at the ranch. Not before there was snow on the ground, but at least the sun was out!
#560
I have always liked a fiberglass topper on these trucks. I couldn't luck out like you did and find one in the boneyard. Your truck is coming along nicely and looking better each day. Sure you have already decided the Webber was the way to go. Looking Great!!!


