Hey where did you get the choke knob

 

Came with the carb

 

Hope everyone had a great Christmas!

Today I played again with tuning my carb again trying to resolve my bad mpg issue. I set the mixture screw to 2 turns out and speed screw to 1 1/2 in per instructions from weber. Well the truck wouldn't stay running lol. I had to raise the speed screw to about 2 1/2 in to get it to idle. All weber literature says no more than 2 in on the screw (1 1/2 is best). If its more than 2 it said to go down a size on the primary idle jet. So i went from a 50 to 45 on the primary idle and from a 55 to 50 on the secondary. They had a one size difference so i figured maybe it was best to keep it that way.

So now I have the speed at 1 1/2 in with an ~800 rpm idle and the mix is at 1 turn out. Seems to run better and is within tolerance according to weber. I also found a not that said you should have no vacuum at the advance port on the carb. I remember before I had about 2" of vacuum and now I have zero so it think I did it right.

I'm also gonna order a the fuel pressure gauge from LCE. I don't really trust the Mr Gasket one I have, its gonna some kinda residue on the inside of the lens so something may have happened to it.

Here is a video of my gauge from idle to high rpms:

 

Hey... nice going! All of my experience with jetting and carb adjustment on mikuni motorcycle carbs (both VM and CV). But it sounds the same, with pilot (idle) and main jet. The main jet needle height can also changed with shims to adjust midrange. Higher needle, fuel sooner as carb opens.

I have a new Weber still in the box sitting in the shop, but won't install it until I do the engine rebuild. Something to look forward to!

Congratulations... hopefully, you'll get more than 16-18 mpg now!

 

Thanks! I talked to Tony at LCE about it after I adjusted everything. He was thinking I was getting around 9-10 mpg and I agree. Hopefully now I'm closer to 15 lol. I thinking about going down on the main jet size and see if I still have still decent power. I would expect that it would boost my mpg more as well. Right now the power is good. Even 5th gear is pretty decent. I topped out at 80mph on the freeway earlier on a flat spot.

 

Got a new battery today. Old one was form 2008 so it lasted a good while especially with some of the winching I did with it.

 

I've been reading this thread for a few days now and its been a good read and I really enjoyed all the pics. I really like the look of your truck, and reading this thread makes me want to start wrenching on my yota.

 

Thanks! I'm hoping to get my bed flares put on this weekend and I have a new fuel pressure gauge from LCE to install. Plus my ever elusive vacuum leak to try and seal. It's a tiny one but I found it. May try some water in a spray bottle to try and pinpoint exactly where it is.

If I get brave enough one day I may pull my weber top off and check my float to see if it's correct. I read some threads where they floats have been incorrect out of the box. Now I'm paranoid and want to check mine lol.

 

All I also have to confess I thought my starter was going out which is only about 2 years old. But I figured out I never tightened up the screw for the negative battery cable to body. Just barely in the hole. Noob mistake lol.

 

Let us know if you get the weber straightened out, my choke isn't working on my factory carb and a weber might be a good alternative. Good luck on the flare swap the new bed looks to be in good shape, especially around here you'd be turning heads everywhere.

 

I resealed the block off plate on the manifold and I think the vacuum leak is gone now. I also found this neat diagram for Webers showing their float level settings:



Put my new LCE fuel pressure gauge on too. Reads a lot better than the Mr Gasket one I had before. Had to dial my pressure down a little bit. I also pulled the top of the carb off and checked the float against the diagram I found and my float was incorrect on the high level. the low level was good.

Here is a video of the new gauge and how much better it reads:


I still have an issue with air coming out of the front breather port on the valve cover and not air going in.

 

Thats good you got the carb straightened out, I ordered weber so this gives me a idea on what I need to do to get it to work. Did you notice a difference in power vs the stock aisin carb im hoping to get a little boost to help on the hills

 

I can definitely notice a different on hills.

 

Good deal, thats what I wanted to hear I'm just wanting to be able to keep up with traffic on the highway. But I let you get back on with your build don't want to hijack it.

 

It's no problem at all.

 

So I kinda want to build a nice metal/wood flatbed on my truck, paint the cab the blue color from this generation, and put some white wheels on it.

 

I had a professional mechanic check my timing today and it was at 0 and I had him change it to 8. He also pulled plug #1 and verified TDC was 0 on the timing mark. So guess I'm a retard when it come to changing the timing because I swore it was at 5.

It drove a little better on the way home had more guts in the accel. When I got home I put the idle jets back to the stock size (I had lowered them) and retuned it per weber instructions and all screw settings are within tolerance and it has pretty good acceleration now. I will have to check my mpg later and see how that was affected.

 

Excellent. What did he do? I mean, did you ask him to show you what he did, so you can do it next time?

If not... Defeat the advance -pull and cap/seal the vacuum tube(s) that go(es) to the advance "bulb" on the distributor, clip the timing light on number 1 spark plug wire, connect the light to power (red to battery +, black to ground), then adjust the distributor (loosen bolt and rotate it) until it fires when you want it to (5 to 8 degrees BTDC).

It is really that straight forward. Maybe you tried this already.

If you have EFI, defeating the advance means jumping female connectors on a bus connector, but otherwise, the process is the same.

Did the mechanic show you how to set the timing, so you can confidently do it next time?

 

Yes this a friend so I drove to his house and watched everything he did. The only thing he did I didn't do before is the sticker on the inside of the hood says to set timing with idle at 950. I always did it at normal idle. Not sure if how bad that messed up my timing if any.

 

Here is my current issue:

Here is the video for it
General conclusions are a slipping clutch so looks like I get to have my first attempt at clutch work.