Glad to hear I'm not the only one this happened too. It's not like the truck runs bad or anything I just though it was weird. I will just try and listen to it by ear and set the timing. As much as I would like to keep the stock carb, a Weber looks better and better every day.

 

I have been thinking about getting a Weber lately. I like this kit LCE has:

http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030026.htm

Expensive though.

 

Anxious to see whatcha choose. My buddy is having problems with smog after the weber.... but loves the power and easier smoother idle.

Best to ya

 

I put my rear side marker lights on this morning and put the license plate lights back on finally. I know they are suppose to be red but I am missing one of my red covers so orange will have to do for now. If anyone has a red cover PM me.





Put my dash cover on too

 

Awesome truck! Brand new here, just bought an 1980 Pickup.. Will have some pics soon. Read all 21 pages just today, keep'em coming..

 

At least a lot of it was pictures. Yea start you a build up thread so we can see what you got!

 

Ran the truck this morning to get breakfast and it idles really well now. It's very steady since I adjusted the timing a little more yesterday. I do feel like I lost some of power in the
+45mph range since the desmog. Probably because only the outside advance on the carb isn't hooked up.

Also the choke is not working. It idles ruff at startup till it warms up some then its fine. I will probably be ordering a weber in a couple weeks so I'm not that worried about any of these problems.

 

From what I understand the "outside" vacuum advance is the main one.. The inside one is for the idle.... I may be wrong tho...... I would try switching ports and see what happens..

 

I said that wrong. The outside is hooked up, not the inside.

 

Ok had a little success tonight with the carb. I started researching on the different ports on the vacuum advance and I decided to try hooking it back up. I used this diagram for the vacuum lines:



Its a nice drawing that only shows the vacuum advance, choke setup, and the charcoal canisters. I used this to hook the advance closest to the valve cover back up. This corrected my weird timing issues as I figured it might. With this hooked up my timing was around 12 degrees which I took to 5. Also hooked up the charcoal canisters back to the carb as well.

I did all that and went for a test drive and I seemed to gain most of that lost acceleration back that I mentioned a few posts up. 3rd and 4th gear do pull a little better like they did after the carb rebuild and before the desmog. Now I'm back to where I want to be. I also reset the mixture idle screw back to the factory location and the exhaust doesn't smell rich so I going to leave it alone. It also is still idling smooth around 750 - 800 rpm.

Also looking at that vacuum diagram I see how to hook the choke system back up properly. I need to buy another BVSV (broke the plastic on mine taking it off) and another one of those Jet things. Don't think mine is working, seems clogged up. Not sure where to get that other than the dealer. Once I get both of those parts I will hook the choke system back up before the winter time comes which will make me very happy!

I also pulled out the big black plug from the desmog kit in the middle of the manifold and put the piece back in that has all the ports. I need one of those ports for the choke system.

This the engine right now:



Not as clean as a weber setup but its not too bad I think. I can live with it.

 

Went out and took a bunch of pictures today.

























This one I edited with an app

 

Man, that's a sweet ride. Good shots and angles too btw.

What size are those tires and rims? 3" lift?

Hey.. I need another bugshield bracket to mount mine. MIssing one.
May just have to fashion something.

 

Its a 3" lift with 33x12.5" tires on 15" rims. I think my bug shield has 4 brackets on it. You probably will have to figure something out on it. Also saw your post where you need a shifter knob. I am probably willing to part with mine. I figured out a way to fix my Mack bull dog shifter and I'm also wanting to get one of these and paint it black.

On a side note I'm going back to the stock alternator setup. GM crap is getting on my nerves.

 

Love the second to last pix of the rig with. The water there.

Love that Mack knob too! Lol... sheild looks good, nice old school touch.

Hey, found a guy near me, also on eBay, he deals in beefed Toyota Alternators.... 3 wire stator upgrade internally for cooling and 130A ....I paid 109$ shipped, IIRC? Ace_Alternators.com.

I didn't see any for ur model on his site....I'm not sure if he does the 1st gen PU alt's....but couldnt hurt to give h a call if ur interested, right? ....... He's listed too....

https://www.google.com/search?safe=i...2296614#mldd=0

http://stores.ebay.com/ACE-ALTERNATO...=p4634.c0.m322

 

How is that Rough Country working out?

 

The lift/springs are fine but the shocks are stiff. Wish I would have gotten a different brand to maybe get a little smoother ride. Hopefully one day I will get Bilsteins or Ranchos.

 

I forgot to put up a picture of my old tool box I got back today. A friend had it for a while but wasn't using it so I got it back.



Problem is he lost the keys. Don't want to store anything in it without being able to lock it of course. So I went to tractor supply Monday just looking around and they had a replacement lock for $10. I thought it was a pretty good deal so i bought it. Well the new lock doesn't have the right bracket on the end of it and that's the only style they make.



I found a replacement key online and they wanted $10 for it but I wasn't gonna pay that much for one key. So I looked at the locks and said "let me play you the song of my people" so two cuts later, a couple of welds and a little grinding the new lock now works.





Stuck it in the back for now:

 

Improvise Adapt and Overcome.......

 

So a while back I bought a SR5 gauge pod for someone but It didn't turn out to be the one I wanted. Ended up getting the one that has the oil pressure readings in 0-6 kg/cm2 and an -50 to +50 amp meter. So I was trying to research the oil pressure gauge and see what the actual range is and its this:

6 kilogram-force/square centimeter = 85.340 060 006 pound/square inch

So obviously an 85 psi oil pressure gauge which means the oil pressure switch is ~0-85 psi. Didn't find specs on the OEM pressure unit made for a gauge, not an idiot light. The oil pressure switch for the idiot light is apparently 2-7 psi. Sooo I started looking for a different oil pressure gauge that might be compatible to directly replace the one in the gauge housing and found this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-350040/overview/

2 1/16" gauge that has a look to it that I think would blend in with the factory setup, nothing fancy. I already have the factory pressure sender had ordered when I bought the gauge pod set. There would be a 5 psi difference in the gauge range and the sensor range but you were to scale it out:

0-85psi sensor
0-12V signal
1V = 7.08 psi.
@6V singal=42.48psi

0-80psi gauge
0-10V signal
1V = 6.66 psi.
@6V=39.96 psi

42.88-39.96=2.52psi

So it should read 2.5 psi less than what it would if the gauge range was the same as the sensor. I think that is an acceptable tolerance, I calculated the percent error and its %3 which is normal for the kinda temp/pressure sensors I deal with at work. Its actually a little better, most have a 5% error dead band. The high dollar sensors have a %2 error.

What does anyone else think about making this work? Even if the sensor I have puts out a different signal, lets say 6-12V = 0 to 80 psi, and the gauge took 3-12V for 0-80 psi, the company who makes the gauge also make a sending unit that is 0-80 psi that is the same thread pattern as the factory sensor, 1/8-27 NPT.

 

Put a factory style alternator and voltage regulator back on today and is working good. I never put my off road lights on and my winch is off as well and the dang GM alt always made weird noises. It bothered me a lot. So if anyone wants to but a GM alt bracket PM me.

Got a Remy alternator and Beck/Arnley voltage regulator from Rock Auto for $90 shipped. The voltage regulator actually comes with an inline fuse on the white/black wire but had a bad fuse in it. The auto parts store doesn't carry this size since it a very small tube/glass style fuse. For now I put my old regulator back on and its holding a steady 14V on the battery. Also put my amp clamp on it and got 11 amps at idle. I forgot to rev it up to see if it would go to 45 amps or so I try it later.