That happens alot on cl. Usually the buyer wanting it shipped is a flag. Personally I will ship but I arrange half the payment plus shipping cost to a verified address. Sign for package, insurance etc

 

Ordered the LCE desmog kit tonight and Saturday night I had ordered some good rubber vacuum caps. If the kit comes in time I will try and work on it this weekend. Might go ahead and try to start removing stuff from the engine. I guess I need to drain some of the engine coolant to change out the water plate, correct?

 

YES... I had a stupid attack today and decided to change the gasket on mine to a heavy one....need less to say all (most) of my new antifreeze is on the shop floor....DOOOOOOOYYYYYYEE.. I threw in the towel and called it a night..

And another tip, don't try to work on your truck with ZERO sleep in 30 hours.

 

I'm sorry but that fuuny lol.

 

One would think I would know better.......sleep deprivation is B_ _ _ _ _........

 

Saw this on the ifunny app today:

 

My desmog kit came in yesterday so hopefully I can work on that this weekend.

 

Nice, Christmas presents to yourself in August! Woot! Haha. ...

Interested to see how you like it and the result. Hope you're doing well man

 

Worked on desmogging my engine tonight. Figured out my truck is the federal/canada 4x4 emissions setup. Here is all the parts I have off so far:





And here is the exhaust side. I broke the middle bolt on the right block off plate when I was screwing it back in. Is it ok or what? Do the middle holes even go anywhere?



Im not sure I should have ordered the kit from LCE now that I have most of it complete. I think it would have been cheaper to order what I needed individually since I'm keeping the heater function. So now I have the pro water block off set I'm not using.

The only part I have left is that egr cross over plate on the back. Looks like it will be a PITA so I'm saving it for in the morning when its daylight and a little cooler. I also have to buy a little bit of vacuum hose to run the advance, some fuel hose to go the pump since I'm not keeping the hard lines for either of them, and a breather filter for the pcv valve. Then put all the vacuum caps on the carb and fire it up. Probably going to to one charcoal canister too.

If I did anything wrong someone tell me before I fire it up lol.

 

Well my water block off plate under the manifold leaks. I'm gonna pull it back off and ditch the thin gasket it came with and put my red high temp rtv on it. This plate and the exhaust injection plates were the only ones I didn't put rtv on. Also putting the factory bolts back in it. Not the short Allen head screws it came with. They seemed a little to short IMHO.

 

I wonder about that back plate.... It seems to me, that it would be beneficial to allow the coolant to circulate and help keep the head cooler..

 

I just had to pull it back off. I seemed to have sealed the leak I had under the intake manifold so I filled the fluid back up and then I found a small drip on the cross over plate. Man I was pissed.

Today was a hard learned lesson in making sure you scrap off all the old gasket material and do a good prep job...Letting it dry for an hour and then I will fill up again and see if leaks.

 

FEEL your pain Brother.....

 

Man I was so mad. I filled it back up and there is no leaking I can see and the level in the radiator is holding so far but I'm going to wait till the morning to fire it up.

Right now The only vacuum line hooked up is the main advance (front port) on the dizzy. I plant to hook the charcoal canisters back up once it is running normal. I'm pretty sure I know where to hook them up to the carb. The only thing I'm not %100 sure is where to hook up the second port for the dizzy. It was kinda hard to tell by looking on Pumpkin's thread.

 

Anyone know what this sensor is I'm pointing to in this pic? Its to the left of the fuel pump.

 

Temperature sensor...At least that's what it looks like to me..But then again I have always run mechanical gauges on mine and that is where I put the lead on the Yota intakes.

 

I got it running this morning and so far no leaks. Had to re-time the engine as it was off. One thing I noticed about that is before I could time it past 5* and now I can't. 5* is high as it will go. But I can go below 0. The engine still sounds the same. Still has the same little sputter and same 100 rpm flux like it did before. Does anyone else do this or does it stay spot on? I sprayed some starting fluid around the carb and manifold to check for leaks but I found none.

Sprayed some down the carb to see what happens and it made my idle drop. I figured it would have went

 

I have done a lot of reading today on timing and I found this thread and it makes me think there is a problem.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-spec-147193/

With the advanced capped off I believe I should be able to time above 5*. I may take off my valve cover off some time this week and look at pulling the dizzy and re-inserting it. Does anyone know if there is a way to look at the harmonic balancer and see if the key notch in the middle is lines up with the mark on pulley without having to take the pulleys off the front? I'm not sure the easiest way to check that.

 

Bring your engine to TDC, you should be able to wiggle the rocker arms on #1 and they should be tight on #4.. there should be a little notch on the center pulley (if you have power steering)... I put a dab of Red paint on mine, but white or any light contrasting color will work.. Also check the pin on the drive gear and make sure it seats in to the cam shaft.... Had an issue with mine, it backed out and under load my timing would change..

 

The manifold block off plate only eliminated the manifold heater that originally mounts under the manifold. It doesn't change the flow of water.

It is the sending unit for your temperature gauge in the cluster.


As far as your timing issue, I had the same problem with an Aisin carb when I first desmogged my truck. I never could really figure it out but had it running rather well. It was almost like I needed to rotate the distributor half a tooth to get the timing right - one tooth one way retarded the timing too much and one tooth the other way advanced the timing too much. My advice? Get a Weber!