Too much center tread wear with Bridgestone Revos
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Too much center tread wear with Bridgestone Revos
Anybody else have this problem? I was checking my tires last night and noticed that the rear has more center tread wear than the fronts. I have a 90 4 runner and run the tires at 35 psi. They are 30x9.5 on an 8" rim. I do know that they are due for a rotation. Maybe quite a bit overdue. I was wanting to bump up the pressure to 40 or 43 psi for more mpg but when I saw the wear I was not sure if I should do that. Anybody else notice rear tire center tread wear with revos? I never noticed this with the Mich. LTX ATs.
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Sounds like they're a bit over inflated. Check the label on the inside of your drivers door jam for the correct tire psi. Knock 'em down to 32psi for a couple of grand and see if that helps.
Last edited by hillbilly; 05-07-2004 at 06:10 AM.
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I've noticed the same thing with my regular Duelers (non-revos). When I had them installed, the shop put 45psi in them - that lasted about 5 miles. I dropped them to between 32 and 35psi for more of their life... about 40k miles. The last 8k or so have been at about 23psi.
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willemon,
do the chalk test: park your vehicle in a straight direction where you can just drive forward after drawing a white line of chalk across the top of your tires. Drive a few hundred feet and get out and check the white line. that should tell you whether or not if your tire is overinflatd or not.
bob
do the chalk test: park your vehicle in a straight direction where you can just drive forward after drawing a white line of chalk across the top of your tires. Drive a few hundred feet and get out and check the white line. that should tell you whether or not if your tire is overinflatd or not.
bob
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#10
Since we are the on the topic, has anybody seen load vs. pressure tables for the Revos?
#11
The door jamb value certainly means nothing with aftermarket tires.
From what I heard the best approach to getting good wear and contact patch is calculating how much weight is on each axle, adding ~300lb to that and matching the final figure to the PSI tables the manufacturer has.
In a truck like 4Runner the distribution is like what? 65/35? Certainly makes sense to run less in the rear when empty.
From what I heard the best approach to getting good wear and contact patch is calculating how much weight is on each axle, adding ~300lb to that and matching the final figure to the PSI tables the manufacturer has.
In a truck like 4Runner the distribution is like what? 65/35? Certainly makes sense to run less in the rear when empty.
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I used to run my 31" A/T's at 35 all around and it was fine...but now that I've got 33" BFG M/T's, not sure what I'm gonna do as far as pressure.
Might have to do that chalk test...
Fink
Might have to do that chalk test...
Fink
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Well the door jamb showes about 28 front and either 32 or 35 rear, I forget. Anyway, I never go by the door jamb anyway. I was comparing these to the same size Michelin LTX AT I had on there prior to the Revos. I always ran 40 front and rear with those and always saw flat wear. I got between 80k to 90k out of them and replaced them due to front end alignment being out eating the fronts on a trip. They were due anyway due to age and being real close to the wear bars.
Now as I think about it, the LTX was a 30x9.5 but had a smaller width tread that these Revos. Think that may have some bearing on this?
I just remembered something and verified this, the Revos are a 265 70 15 p metric tire, while the LTX ATs were a 30x9.5 LT tire. Even though the tire is the same size, the Revo may have a less beefy shell than a LT tire and it allows the tread to bulge in the center more than the LTX ATs. The actual tread width may play a role as well.
Now as I think about it, the LTX was a 30x9.5 but had a smaller width tread that these Revos. Think that may have some bearing on this?
I just remembered something and verified this, the Revos are a 265 70 15 p metric tire, while the LTX ATs were a 30x9.5 LT tire. Even though the tire is the same size, the Revo may have a less beefy shell than a LT tire and it allows the tread to bulge in the center more than the LTX ATs. The actual tread width may play a role as well.
#15
What is the logic behind running higher pressure in the rear?
I adjusted mine today to 28 front 23 rear cold. If running recommended 32 all around there is no bulge in the tires, front or rear, at all. That's not how it's supposed to be. 29 and 24 gives same slight bulge front and rear.
32psi is a bone jarring ride, especially going over rail road tracks. What's the point of having 8" sidewall if pumping them up like 22's
I adjusted mine today to 28 front 23 rear cold. If running recommended 32 all around there is no bulge in the tires, front or rear, at all. That's not how it's supposed to be. 29 and 24 gives same slight bulge front and rear.
32psi is a bone jarring ride, especially going over rail road tracks. What's the point of having 8" sidewall if pumping them up like 22's
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Originally Posted by 4RUNR
What is the logic behind running higher pressure in the rear?
#17
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Carcass making it bulge more in the center?
Your tires have too much air in them. The symptoms you describe are classic for that.
Try airing them down to 40 but on the way to say 32 or so.
My 33x12.5's on 8" wide rims are right on the nuts with 35 PSI
Your tires have too much air in them. The symptoms you describe are classic for that.
Try airing them down to 40 but on the way to say 32 or so.
My 33x12.5's on 8" wide rims are right on the nuts with 35 PSI
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Originally Posted by williemon
I was comparing these to the same size Michelin LTX AT I had on there prior to the Revos. I always ran 40 front and rear with those and always saw flat wear. I got between 80k to 90k out of them and replaced them due to front end alignment being out eating the fronts on a trip
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Carcass making it bulge more in the center?
Your tires have too much air in them. The symptoms you describe are classic for that.
Try airing them down to 40 but on the way to say 32 or so.
My 33x12.5's on 8" wide rims are right on the nuts with 35 PSI
Your tires have too much air in them. The symptoms you describe are classic for that.
Try airing them down to 40 but on the way to say 32 or so.
My 33x12.5's on 8" wide rims are right on the nuts with 35 PSI
Thought Id chime in again on this one. Your right. There IS too much air in them, but I know this already. My confusion is that the Mich. LTX AT Light truck type tire was perfectly happy with 40 psi front and rear. 80k to 90k miles with flat wear across all 4 tires proves this to be true. So one would just figure that the same size but different brand AT type tire on the same vehicle would be happy with 40psi also as far as wear is concerned. This has been proven false, but I just did not know why. Thats why I wondered about one set being an LT tire and the other being a P metric, or the wider tread width of the Revoes vs the more narrow tread width of the LTX AT.
Either way, I know theres too much air for the revoes so I need them at 32 to 35 and will run them there, but I just wondered WHY. As far as how much mileage I expect from the revoes, I hope they surprise me like the LTX AT did. I think they have a mileage warrantee but I dont remember what it was. The LTX did not have a warrantee since it was a LT tire with floatation sizeing so I had no idea what to expect.
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The tire pressure ratings on the door jam were guidlines for the OEM stock tires, you can't use them as 'gospel' for aftermarket tires. Go to the tire manufacturers web site, in this case Bridgstone, and they will have the pressure ranges they recommend for all their tires in their line. And they recommed a range (hi-low), which means to me that one should start within that range and adjust according to your vehicle and use. If you follow most tire manufacturers warnings, they strongly recommend that you don't underinflate your tires just to get a more comfortable ride. I would much rather have a somewhat stiffer ride than have a tire faliure because of excessive heat buildup that underinflating a tire will cause. Remember the issue with the Explorers and Firestone a while back? The primary cause for most of those tire faliures was heat buildup caused by underinflation.
I run my OEM Bridgestone dueler H/Ts during the summer at 37, and my Revos during the winter at 34. follow the rotation rcommendations, and haven't seen any unusual wear patterns so far.
I run my OEM Bridgestone dueler H/Ts during the summer at 37, and my Revos during the winter at 34. follow the rotation rcommendations, and haven't seen any unusual wear patterns so far.
Last edited by TechWrench; 08-08-2004 at 08:20 AM.
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