Quick 4.3 swap question(s)
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Quick 4.3 swap question(s)
I hate asking questions. But after HOURS of endless searching i still have a couple questions. I tried emailing AA but they never responded.
1) Im running stock ifs. I have only seen the swap done on lifted rigs. Can i do it with out a lift and just use a safari oil pan or a NWOR custom oil pan?
2) I cant find anything about wiring. Anyone have links or anything to wiring a TBI 4.3?
Thanks everyone. If you dont feel like typing, just give me the link or point me in the right direction, i have no problem with reading
-Jack
1) Im running stock ifs. I have only seen the swap done on lifted rigs. Can i do it with out a lift and just use a safari oil pan or a NWOR custom oil pan?
2) I cant find anything about wiring. Anyone have links or anything to wiring a TBI 4.3?
Thanks everyone. If you dont feel like typing, just give me the link or point me in the right direction, i have no problem with reading
-Jack
#4
Registered User
You two kill me.
#7
Registered User
Shouldn't your "mentor" be able to answer those? Just sayin.
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#10
Banned
Thread Starter
Screw 350
I dont know what you guys have against the 4.3.
Its a good motor. Given its not toyota so i cant put 4 billion miles on it. But that doesnt mean its crap. There is a reason its in like every vehicle chevy has made.
I dont know what you guys have against the 4.3.
Its a good motor. Given its not toyota so i cant put 4 billion miles on it. But that doesnt mean its crap. There is a reason its in like every vehicle chevy has made.
#11
its nothing against the motor.. the 4.3 is a decent motor... But she's heavy. You'd need to swap over torsion bars from a 3.0 truck. Mounts are different.. you'd need a custom belhousing... Its your constant waffering on what you want to do and lack of doing it. The folks gonna be okilly dokilly with you driving thier cars till your swap is done? I see the swap taking you atleast a couple months. Not trying to be mean or a dick bro, but i'm being realistic with you. And in all honesty.. you really need to address the rust issue before it becomes a safety issue and your body mounts rust compleatly off.
#12
Banned
Thread Starter
Yeah i know what you mean. After all this IS a toyota site
I have done tons of research on it, so i have got my plan pretty well figured out.
As for taking a couple months, im starting my senior project now so that i have the summer to collect all the parts i need. Then im going to buckle down and do it over winter or spring break, and if necessary, the next week too.
oh and body mounts are fine. Got lucky there Its just where mud would build up and sit is where its rusted. So the lips inside the fender, and where the rear bumper was.
I have done tons of research on it, so i have got my plan pretty well figured out.
As for taking a couple months, im starting my senior project now so that i have the summer to collect all the parts i need. Then im going to buckle down and do it over winter or spring break, and if necessary, the next week too.
oh and body mounts are fine. Got lucky there Its just where mud would build up and sit is where its rusted. So the lips inside the fender, and where the rear bumper was.
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: North Carolina
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My understanding from Downey Off-Road (back when they were still in business) is that if using the 4.3 TBI setup, you use the GM CPU to run the engine (only a handful of wires to connect to get it working). You will keep the Toyota CPU to look at the sensors for Oil Pressure, Temperature, etc... All you need to do is use adapters to get the Toyota oil & temp sending units installed on the 4.3 block. (some folks use a Thermostat housing with a place to insert a temp sending unit and use an adapter that will accomodate both the GM and Yota oil sending units)
I am currently running a carb setup, but I am thinking of going the MegaSquirt (check out thier website - www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html) route using the original TBI unit and intake. This will allow me to adjust the fuel injection instead of relying on the GM programming.
The wire for the Toyota A/C compressor should engage the GM compressor with no issue.
You should be able to adapt the power steering hoses from the GM unit to the Toyota steering box. (I used "swagelock" fittiings I got from work)
The alternator wires from the Toyota just need to be rerouted to the GM alternator. (you may have to run an additional wire to turn on the regualtor on the GM alternator)
So far I love the extra power my 4.3 has over the ol' 3.0 it came with. And its easy to work on, parts are common and reasonably priced and readily available at just about any part store.
As for the weight difference....not an issue. The front of my truck sits just like it did when the 3.0 was in it. No extra sagging at all.
#16
Registered User
I hate asking questions. But after HOURS of endless searching i still have a couple questions. I tried emailing AA but they never responded.
1) Im running stock ifs. I have only seen the swap done on lifted rigs. Can i do it with out a lift and just use a safari oil pan or a NWOR custom oil pan?
2) I cant find anything about wiring. Anyone have links or anything to wiring a TBI 4.3?
Thanks everyone. If you dont feel like typing, just give me the link or point me in the right direction, i have no problem with reading
-Jack
1) Im running stock ifs. I have only seen the swap done on lifted rigs. Can i do it with out a lift and just use a safari oil pan or a NWOR custom oil pan?
2) I cant find anything about wiring. Anyone have links or anything to wiring a TBI 4.3?
Thanks everyone. If you dont feel like typing, just give me the link or point me in the right direction, i have no problem with reading
-Jack
2)Search Pirate4x4 for the schematics.
James
#17
Banned
Thread Starter
I have heard that the nwor oil pan will make it so i dont need a lift, but i have heard that it still doesnt completely clear the diff on stock ifs too.
I would just buy the oil pan and hope for the best, but they want $400 bucks for it. But if you can confirm that is completely true, then $400 is cheaper than a lift and tires.
And i just have to put this out there, NWOR customer service sucks, i was on hold for 20 minutes, talked for a second, then they transfered me to someone else and i had to someone else where i was on hold for 15 minutes. Then they hung up on me
The only thing i got out of the call was that they wanted 400 for the oil pan, and $710 freaking dollars for their headers!
AA was WAY more helpful.
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