Quick 4.3 swap question(s)
 

I hate asking questions. But after HOURS of endless searching i still have a couple questions. I tried emailing AA but they never responded.

1) Im running stock ifs. I have only seen the swap done on lifted rigs. Can i do it with out a lift and just use a safari oil pan or a NWOR custom oil pan?

2) I cant find anything about wiring. Anyone have links or anything to wiring a TBI 4.3?

Thanks everyone. If you dont feel like typing, just give me the link or point me in the right direction, i have no problem with reading:D

-Jack

... seriously bro??? FIX THE RUST FIRST!!!!
then when you actually wheel it... do the swap.. or a 7m swap

... Jack... FAIL.

You two kill me.

Thanks for the support guys:booty:

Oh and im looking for real help, so keep it in the friend bank thread:P

i did give you help... go for a 7m swap.

Shouldn't your "mentor" be able to answer those? Just sayin. :D

Mentors dont need to know everything there is to know about it. Just the basics.

ugh...:roll: Just put a 350 in like everybody else and put a dana 30 up front...you'll be good to go for extreme mall crawl...like me! :D

Screw 350:P

I dont know what you guys have against the 4.3.
Its a good motor. Given its not toyota so i cant put 4 billion miles on it. But that doesnt mean its crap. There is a reason its in like every vehicle chevy has made.

its nothing against the motor.. the 4.3 is a decent motor... But she's heavy. You'd need to swap over torsion bars from a 3.0 truck. Mounts are different.. you'd need a custom belhousing... Its your constant waffering on what you want to do and lack of doing it. The folks gonna be okilly dokilly with you driving thier cars till your swap is done? I see the swap taking you atleast a couple months. Not trying to be mean or a dick bro, but i'm being realistic with you. And in all honesty.. you really need to address the rust issue before it becomes a safety issue and your body mounts rust compleatly off.

Yeah i know what you mean. After all this IS a toyota site:D

I have done tons of research on it, so i have got my plan pretty well figured out.

As for taking a couple months, im starting my senior project now so that i have the summer to collect all the parts i need. Then im going to buckle down and do it over winter or spring break, and if necessary, the next week too.

oh and body mounts are fine. Got lucky there:P Its just where mud would build up and sit is where its rusted. So the lips inside the fender, and where the rear bumper was.

Okay, so here is the skinny on the 4.3 swap:

My understanding from Downey Off-Road (back when they were still in business) is that if using the 4.3 TBI setup, you use the GM CPU to run the engine (only a handful of wires to connect to get it working). You will keep the Toyota CPU to look at the sensors for Oil Pressure, Temperature, etc... All you need to do is use adapters to get the Toyota oil & temp sending units installed on the 4.3 block. (some folks use a Thermostat housing with a place to insert a temp sending unit and use an adapter that will accomodate both the GM and Yota oil sending units)

I am currently running a carb setup, but I am thinking of going the MegaSquirt (check out thier website - www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html) route using the original TBI unit and intake. This will allow me to adjust the fuel injection instead of relying on the GM programming.

The wire for the Toyota A/C compressor should engage the GM compressor with no issue.

You should be able to adapt the power steering hoses from the GM unit to the Toyota steering box. (I used "swagelock" fittiings I got from work)

The alternator wires from the Toyota just need to be rerouted to the GM alternator. (you may have to run an additional wire to turn on the regualtor on the GM alternator)

So far I love the extra power my 4.3 has over the ol' 3.0 it came with. And its easy to work on, parts are common and reasonably priced and readily available at just about any part store.

As for the weight difference....not an issue. The front of my truck sits just like it did when the 3.0 was in it. No extra sagging at all.

Sweet thanks cblackard:great:

I havent heard about running both CPUs. But it makes sense.
Thanks man.

lift or no lift
 

advance adapters sells an after oil pan so you do not have to lift it.:troll:

1)You need to run a 4.3 with a steel oil pan. The aluminum pan 4.3's do not swap with the steel pan 4.3's. If you buy the NWOR oil pan, then you do not need a suspension lift

2)Search Pirate4x4 for the schematics.

James

AA only sells them for the v8.

Thanks James, yeah i have read about the oil pan material a couple times.
I have heard that the nwor oil pan will make it so i dont need a lift, but i have heard that it still doesnt completely clear the diff on stock ifs too.

I would just buy the oil pan and hope for the best, but they want $400 bucks for it. But if you can confirm that is completely true, then $400 is cheaper than a lift and tires.

And i just have to put this out there, NWOR customer service sucks, i was on hold for 20 minutes, talked for a second, then they transfered me to someone else and i had to someone else where i was on hold for 15 minutes. Then they hung up on me:think:
The only thing i got out of the call was that they wanted 400 for the oil pan, and $710 freaking dollars for their headers!

AA was WAY more helpful.

i like were u r going withthis n love the motor is same as 350 basically n look forward to doing my own very soon