live4soccer7

I'm over by Spokane, WA. Close to the Idaho boarder (45 mins away or so).

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Ahh, I am down by Salem. I do have family over in Meridian Idaho, so I could have an excuse to head that way for a wheeling party.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

I only have a cat located in the stock 3.0 spot. I am not running a secondary cat as smog doesn't require it here either. I have found that my ECU usually does fine not running secondary's, however after a really hard pull or a long uphill heavy on the foot pull it has thrown secondary error codes tripping the check engine light. I pull the EFI main fuse for about 15 seconds and reseat it. This will clear the error code out of the ECU and shut the light off. I have thought about buying the O2 bypass and might if the issue getting to being annoying. I usually get the error once every couple of months.

live4soccer7

Anymore info on the O2 bypass? Is it something specific to the UZ?

Any idea on the purpose of a secondary O2? Just wondering if it has any effect on efficiency of the motor. I may see what the experts over at lextreme think too.

I'm hoping to have this thing up and running within 2 months. I would love to have it for a good portion of the summer, however I wouldn't be disappointed if it were finished by fall as well. Then I get some 4x4 in the snow.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

The bypass isn't UZ specific. You can find them all over ebay. Lextreme is a good source of info too!!!

The purpose of the secondary 02 is to measure the air as it leaves the second cat and verify the first 02 sensor is working correctly. I am not sure on efficiency of the motor. Everything I have found says that it doesn't make a difference on how the motor runs it is just an EPA thing. I would be interested in hearing from anybody with experience and data showing the use or deletion of the secondary 02's.

live4soccer7

I'll dig in to it a little and see what people are saying and let you guys know. I had just read that it was mainly there to tell if the cats were functioning properly and to throw the engine light if they were not. That was only one post somewhere, so I definitely want to hear a few more people's opinions. Over the Lex I go.

live4soccer7

http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showt...ight=02&page=2

A little info, but nothing too 'scientific yet'

Getting some mixed things: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...-tricking.html

Most are saying it is to check for functionality of the cats. In that thread a guy is somewhat stating/asking that as soon as the check engine light goes on then the ECU goes in to 'Limp' mode. If that is the case then a simulator or sub O2's would be essential for economy based on the sole fact that they would prevent 'Limp' mode by keeping the check engine light off.

live4soccer7

Another little update. Nothing much, but several more hours on the harness since the last update. It is nearly there! I have maybe 5 connectors that I was not able to identify that I need to go back and re-attempt to identify then either remove/keep them. I think I'll go ahead and zip tie the harness in the general shape to tidy it up then take it to the truck, fit it and start working on getting all the accessories working (lights, heater blower, brakes etc...). Once everything is working then I'll pull the harness and wrap it up with the split loom techflex. It'll give it a nice clean look and I can always add wires to it down the road if I need to. This way I won't have a 'birds nest' in my engine bay if I need/want to add wires down the road for something I accidentally may have removed that I shouldn't have or for an accessory.

Essentially once I get all the accessories working then I'll be 99% done with the wiring for the swap because the engine, cluster, steering, cruise etc.. are all plug and play. I will have to wire the fuel pump and a few other little things, but nothing too crazy or intricate.





I do still need to de-pin a few wires, but I will do that when I'm about ready to move the harness to the truck.

87-SR5

They are just there to tell if the cats are present. The only thing that eliminating them will do is set a code and turn the engine light on. They will not effect the performance.

live4soccer7

It will not put the engine in to 'limp mode' or cause excessively rich conditions?

live4soccer7

No photos, just an update for anyone following. I was able to move the harness to the 4runner (keep the 4runner at a different location). I have routed the harness the way that I like it and the wiring should actually end up looking very clean and mostly hidden. It took quite a bit longer than I thought to get everything situated to where it would work best without being a sloppy mess. I'm working on mounting the fuse boxes etc.. now. Once I can get that all finished up then I can start converting the plugs for the lights and everything over and apply some power to the harness for testing.

Anyone care to post up photos of their 1UZ install. I'm particularly interested in a shot from the front of the engine bay looking up the steering shaft to see for clearances and general room that is there.

Bingle

Hey Nick, glad to see you're still making progress. I am following your build still, a lot more closely now that I've decided against the JZ engine and will be going to a 1UZ when I get the time and money, hopefully I'll be trying to do the engine next spring, got some other things to fix up first. Looking good and am stoked to check that thing out when you get it together. I'm just down the road a bit if you need a hand or something. Have to show you the dcoe'd 22r before I pull it!

live4soccer7

Thanks! It definitely turned out to be quite the little project. I hardly did anything over the winter on it, so I wouldnt really count that time toward the project. I believe I pulled the engine late summer/fall last year. I would say I have had a few good months of working on it so far in all that time. There are definitely a few local people that are wanting to see it when it is done, but none more than myself. haha. I can't wait to have all that time freed up, I'm not quite sure what I'll do with it all. Thus far it has all been fairly easy, just time consuming.

I don't think you could go wrong with either engine, but I do think that if you have a mildly built 4x4 the 2JZ will have to work a little harder than the 1UZ when it is not in boost to keep it moving along. You can always put a supercharger on the earlier UZ engines up until about 94 and they will make pretty much whatever kind of power you want. I believe the stock ECU and electrical components are good for about 300-350 bhp, but don't quote me on that. After that stand alone ECU and you can get quite a bit more out of the stock internals. The other thing that deterred me a little from the 2JZ was all the additional tubing/piping for the turbo and intercooler, just seemed like places for mud/dirt to get trapped and get in to the engine more easily. At least with the UZ it all sits right on top of the engine when you supercharge it, which keeps it pretty dang far away from all that crap. Simpler setup, but time will tell.

Something to think about if you want to keep the auto and don't care about possible FI down the road then you can look for the later ones which are VVTI (starting around 98) and make about 290HP in stock form and I think produce a little more torque on the lower end (again, don't quote me, just what I'm trying to remember). The one big thing you would need to look in to would be the immbolizers on those versions and they have to have the tranny unless you get a system to fool it in to thinking the tranny is there. If you don't like wiring then talk to tweaked performance, they should be able to make you a harness for a decent price. I think it would be well worth the money. I didn't because I tied the whole thing in to my dash as well. If for some reason I couldn't get the wiring to work then I would just call them up and have them make me a harness or something along those lines (I'll make it work though).

Bingle

Yeah, keeping the auto trans I think, the VVTI would be sweet but the whole imobilizer thing looks like a serious PITA. The intercooler ect was one of the reasons I decided against the JZ but the main reason was looking at reliability of the engine and associated parts. Not that the JZ is an unreliable engine but you see running uz's with 250-300 K on them all the time. Just seems like there's more to fail or wear out on the JZ (I could be wrong on this) and they cost at least twice as much. I'd love to get a sc400 in decent shape, pull the UZ for the truck then drop a JDM 2JZ in the sc400. That would be sweet but the wife and the budget won't allow for such things. I'm looking at JDM UZ's (due to much lower milage) but the wireing, or lack thereof, worries me. We'll see what happens.

The short story is that you ended up helping me talk myself out of the 2JZ, I still want one in something, someday, but the UZ is the better choice for what we have. Thanks for helping me be at least sort of reasonable about my engine choice!

live4soccer7

Well thanks for validating my reasoning. haha. It would be too much for work the JZ in a 400 lexus. The SC300 has a 2jzGE (non-turbo in it). If you were to do something like that then you would just get the 300 and NA to T it or just drop an entire 2JZGTE in the 300, but regardless still a lot of wiring and getting it all to work. The JZ platform is pretty solid, but I think I would want to drop an LSx engine in to something. Some pure raw torque and power all the way through the band. Honestly you probably can't beat the efficiency of those motors for what they are. I'd put one in my 4runner, but they are bigger than the UZ and I think the smoothness of the UZ and reliability will be great to have (as you stated) for a truck that isn't going to the drag. Not to mention that it gets to stay Toyota through and through.

Whatever you do, get the whole donor car. You will hate yourself if you do not. You can pick them up pretty darn cheap. I was impatient and got the LS version vs the SC version (get the SC400 if you have solid axle or you will be buying lots of add on parts from the SC version) and I paid 1200 for mine. Still cheap considering it was a running car that didn't really have any engine issues (that I know of). I have seen/heard of many people getting them for around 500 with body damage from a wreck (mine was damaged, but still drivable)

egesledder

Cool project so far, nice work. I've been following this periodically and thought I'd throw this in:

The LSx is actually skinnier and about the same height as the UZ. If you get the aluminum block 5.3L L33, its a little lighter too, and lots more torque/hp than the 1UZ as well. I've got a friend with an iron block 5.3 LM7 in his land cruiser and I've seen him beat the ˟˟˟˟ out of that motor for 130k miles now since the swap (used - pulled from a wrecked van) without missing a beat. I'm talking like foot to the floor, 6k rpm all the way up to the Eisenhower tunnel here in Colorado.

Not to dissuade anyone from doing a cool project. I've done plenty of projects that weren't the most efficient route, but it was the route that I WANTED to do and seemed cool at the time (Like my 7m swap, for example, haha). The DOHC 1UZ is a sweet motor, but for a truck motor, just know that there are other perfectly viable, and possibly better options. Another bonus to running a GM motor: every freakin' parts store around has every part you can think of for it on the shelf.

live4soccer7

I was personally considering the LS1/2 Platform. I think it is a little heavier, but not enough to really disuade someone from using it with a crawler/offroad vehicle. The LS1 makes about 75-100 more hp than the 1UZ (depends on models etc..). The LS2 even more.

Honestly, it seemed a bit overkill for a little toyota truck. The more power the more stuff that will break, especially with the readily available torque of the LSx.

It does seem that it is about the same size and even skinnier. For some reason, I was thinking it was about 28/29" tall from bottom of the oil pan. The 1UZ is about 25x25x25". Pretty much a cube.

Regardless, I don't think you can go wrong with either solution and I think they are among the best options for something that will undoubtedly give you enough power and a decently efficient truck as well.


By the way you commented on the 7mgte, what was your opinion of it after you've had it done? How was the fuel economy on it as well?

egesledder

I'm still liking the 7m, I'm currently daily driving it. I'm getting around 19mpg in the summer and around 17mpg in the winter with mixed 4wd time. I also live up a big (2k') hill, so I'm sure that affects it a little. I get around 21mpg on the highway at 65mph, and around 16 at 80mph. Its a super smooth motor, makes cool turbo noises, and makes lots of power up high, but my next swap will be a V8 though. Not into this truck, but maybe a landcruiser. This thing is running too well and I have way too much time in it to change it. I was looking at the L92 out of a newer tahoe. 6.2L all aluminum LS block, 400hp/415lbft, vvt, etc. Could be a cool swap.

Bingle

I can't argue with any of the above GM options, but with well over 500k mi on the truck and had 417k on the original engine, there's a reason I want to stay all toyota drivetrain. I swear that the harder you beat on a toyota, the better they perform.
Also my frist gen truck weighs even less than your runner, and cirtainly less than second gen runners, that people seem really happy with 1UZ engines in. Compared to the 22r, the 1UZ is a monster.

live4soccer7

I'll have to look in to it. Glad to hear that you achieved what you were looking for originally though. I looked through a good portion of your swap/build. I hear ya on not wanting to change anything after all the investment in personal time and money. That's where I'll be at with the UZ and I already have a lot of time in to the rest of the truck too.

Luckily, if I feel the need to get some more power then I can put a supercharger on the motor and be done with it.

The funny thing is when you look up mpg of an LS1 swap or UZ swap, you often times see them mention each other in posts. Granted the LS1 is more powerful and has the nice 6 speed option to throw behind it, which often will result in better mpg due to gearing in stock vehicles.

Undoubtedly, the LSx and UZ are among the best swaps (if not the best) for an all around rig with some power AND efficiency. This excludes diesels.

Edit: I looked up the L92, is it direct injection? Seems like it would be a good motor.