Found this in my photobucket, forgot I took it. Thanks to Suppra87 for my purchase a few months ago. Lol I was sitting on the toilet when I first saw his post it was for sale. Made the 30min drive to check it out and brought it home that weekend.

 

Here is a link to a problem I'm having with my runner since I finished the build. I've been talking to some people on another thread but figured I'd post it here.
So I have a terrible noise coming from somewhere in my drivetrain. When I'm on the gas or engine braking it is dead silent. Once everything is warmed up when I'm going down the road and coast at speed in neutral or there is just no load on the drivetrain I get this terrible grinding/rattling racket. When the drivetrain is cold it doesn't make the noise. If I go down the road just a half mile you can start to hear it and from their it just gets progressively louder.
I've replaced the trans,had no effect. The Tcase had a full master rebuild kit put it when the 23spline gear was put in. Then recently had it torn apart and looked at again. From which there was no smoking gun, no noticeable metal shavings,bearings looked and felt good. Did not notice any chipped teeth. Was recently told to look at my rear but when I parked it for the swap my rear was dead silent going down the road.
My neighbor mentioned my exhaust being too close to my tranny and that it could be thinning out my gear oil. Don't really think that's the issue but I suppose it is possible.
The video is a little long, I basically say everything you just read before I take it for a ride.

 

mayb if u helped others maybe theyd help youlol

 

Lol I'm not really sure what that is suppose to mean on here so I'm just gonna assume your joking. I posted this in another thread and some of the guys lead me to find the noise.
Which happend to be my rear end. I pulled out my 5:29 ring &pinion with the locket and put I a spare 4:10 rear I had it was perfect. Completely silent and smooth going down the road now. Thanks for your comment, I had forgotten I posted it here as well.

 

Was kinda joking i asked for help and didnt get a response lol itsok im now curious on ur wiring having some issues with my swap.sorry i asked awhile back on your oil filter relocate but i figured it out (didnt look very closly).4.10s would make more sense...stronger. im gonna run 4.30s on mine just figuredsince ur swap was similar id ask and hopefully get some help i thought up issue was something reguarding ur gearing or ds ur angle couldve been making the sound u were hearing.i would of gave u a free 4.10 so u had 4x4 wish i knew.i need help withthis thing so far im running 2jzgte vvti out of a aristo stock behind its gonna be a r151f with a bellhousing tht u saw on this thread ...cheaply made btw. But my issue right now is getting it running extended every wire and now its failing to stay running maybe maf but dunno figured the more support we have on it the more ppl will do it hasnt been too expensive so far i feel like its doable on a 4k budget this is where im at right now https://vimeo.com/172997990

 

We'll the 4.10's are temporary. I don't want the 5:29's anymore there just too low with this motor. Since I half to rebuild the rear anyways to get my air locker back under it I'm thinking 4:56's for the front and rear. Although it is ridiculously expensive just to do a rebuild and new gear set front and rear.

On your build I just listened to your video. What your motor is doing sounds to me as if the ecu isn't telling your fuel pump to run once the motor is started. It builds up intial pressure when ignition is turned on but has no signal to run continually. I would verify what your fuel pump is doing before anything else. Hopefully an easier fix then expected for ya.
Also when I ordered my motor somewhere in its travels someone had taking the stock maf sensor off and put on a different one. It still ran but not very good and god awfully rich.

What info are you using for your wiring?

 

Yea defrunning super rich backfired on me twice thought i blew out my ear drums. im just running off of wilbos site this is the first time ive ever done any car wiring so my plan is a to get it running right then depin all the stuff i dont use then wire in the stuff i need.had to tear apart my stock harness to find out what alot of stuff was for the body theres no pinout for my truck unfortunately.standalone would of been nice but too much money

 

So since I first finished the swap it became very apparent very fast that I needed a trac bar to help the leaf springs hold the rear axle in place. So finally with a free Saturday a few weeks ago I managed to finally make one. The pipe had been laying for my bender and the bushings I orderd months ago so they'd be here waiting when I was ready.
The bottom half is 1 3/4" and the top is 1 1/2". True O.D pipe with 1/8" wall has a very tight tolerance but is perfect fit to fit inside one another. As my suspension travels the bigger pipe slides up and down the 1 1/2" with minimal play. The triangulated piece puts itself in a bind against the 1 1/2" when I'm on the gas keeping the axle from rolling either direction. A friend of mine at the marina showed me a picture of his friends 4runner that gave me the idea for this. Probly may not work to well if I was full flexing every weekend but for my occasional ride through the woods or swamp it's perfect.

 

As of today this is what I've got going on. Yesterday I drove up to Baltimore and picked up another fj80 high pinion front end. It's been a few times my front driveshaft has pulled apart on me. Rather than lengthiness it again I wanted to try a HP instead. Plus not I have a front diff to match my rear end. Sadly however I went from a air locker in the rear and tru trac up front to just plain open diffs now eventually I'll rebuild both and put my lockers back in but not anytime soon.

So with the diff in hand it was time to start my front axle rebuild. This is what I have for it.
Trail Gear knuckle rebuild kit
Inner and outer wheel bearings for both sides
Trail Gear backing plate eliminator
FJ 60 front brake Rotors (Non vented)
93 v6 4Runner calipers with pads
I think that's everything. The stock rotors to the FJ 60 rotors are the same diameter but different thickness. The calipers do seem to be a little bit larger. As much as people talk this brake upgrade I was expecting more but hopefully my braking will be noticeably improved when all this is done. Only had about 2hrs with it today and managed to get the passenger knuckle broken down and cleaned up.








I know they look different in pic but it was hard to hold tape across the two and center my phone up for the pic.
Lol trust me they are the same

 

U anywhere near ocean city md? Would be sweet to see that thing down there this weekend

 

OC is about 2 an half hours from me maybe a little less. I definitely do not see myself driving it down this coming weekend. Although I did tell myself I was gonna make a day cruise out of it one day before it got cold. Just drive down one morning and come back in the afternoon but I'm not sure it's gonna happen. Not cause of the truck I just don't get too many free Saturdays

 

So I was knocking out the driver side this evening and came to an abrupt stop when I discovered this. Not sure when it exactly happened but lol I have a feeling my motor might be the cause of it.

 

I'm guessing that's a stock birf?
and looks like you need axle seals buy the soup in the knuckle. While your in there, tap a grease fitting to the square plug, makes keeping you knuckle greased convenient.

 

Yup, stock birfield. I really don't wanna spend any more money at the moment for trail gear birfield. I have a spare axle off an 85 pickup luckily so I'll be able to pull it out of that. And the knuckles were always just seeping out a thinned out gear oil grease mix from both inner axle seals leaking

 

Everything is back on for the most part, Gonna order 1" wheel spacers and a brake booster for a v6 4runner to put on as well. Aside from that I have the high pinion bolted in and I also took the painstaking time to clean,prep,and paint the steering knuckles with some left over POR-15 paint I used on the frame a while back in the initial build.

 

I was originally very much against the idea of wheel spacers, I really really really really really really do not like them. To me there almost as bad as putting a body lift on a truck and then saying it's lifted lol. But after some persuasion from my roommate plus it will just make it the same width as my rear end now which is out of an 87 pickup. It's really not that bad just me being too particular.

 

So my front end rebuild is done. After I was done the axle and brakes I bought a brake booster for a 93 runner and put it on. To my surprise there was a slight clearence issue on the steering knuckle that comes through the firewall. Took it back off and with some very minimal grinding with a cut off wheel and a file it was perfect.
I will say with the new brakes and the booster this thing has no hesitation in locking up the tires. The front end does dive an annoying amount when your on the brakes but at least it stops a bit more reasonable now. The wheel spacers I was hating on really are not that bad. I need to order new rims soon anyways since 2 of the 4 that I'm running are bent from from trails. I need to pop a tire off and see what the back spacing is so I know what to order to suck them back into the truck a little bit.

For whatever reason my photobucket does not want to load this evening so I have no pictures to put up.

 

Just realized on your build that you placed in the motor with the trans. is impossible to get the trans on with the motor in?havent taken a close look at how mine would be done.I actually just ordered everything for the trans.i also figured out why i couldnt keep mine running finally fired it up the other day turns out when i extended the harness there was 2 wires the same color on the same plug located next to each other not a big deal tho since now ive decided to megasquirt it.

 

I'm sure it is possible but probly difficult. You might run into an issue with the bellhousing and firewall clearance when trying to come up and in from the bottom. The entire build you see here I did by myself which makes a difference on how I did every thing. For me it was easier and safer to put it all in with one shot with the chain fall then to fight the trans by myself from the bottom.

one more thing, with the trans bolted to the motor once I had the motor bolted and squared up i could just use a jack to get my flange angle and could build my trans mount while it was held in place.
I think that might be here in the build but not sure

 

It is i saw it.i like the transmount you made im also assuming the stock one wont line up fingers crossed since mine was auto its a little different even tho one i fab up is in my plans