So last year I bought my 95 4runner with a blown engine and swapped in a 5vz while still retaining my 95 r151 transmission (marlin double case equipped) then a few thousand miles later I started getting that marbles bouncing around in the transmission(balance shaft bearing) so I ordered up an adapter plate to install my double case setup onto my newer r151f transmission that originally came with my 5vz swap.
Fast forward pulling the old transmission,flywheel,clutch
2" bodylift, Modified the header wrapped exhaust to go around the slave cylinder, reconfigured the rest of the exhaust moved the transmission brackets back an inch,installed new flyheel,clutch adapter plate and transmission back in the truck.
The transmission swap was 90% complete until I went to install the rear drive shaft and I realized I had one of 2 options

1) Cut the driveshaft down

2) cut the leaf spring hangers and move them and the entire axle back an inch or two

I'm starting to lean to cutting the springs and moving everything back an inch or two and trim the back of the wheel well to match ( I'm going to 37" military rims/tires so the extra clearance may help)

Any input appreciated!

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I honestly cannot even understand why you would even consider anything other than shortening the driveline. Fairly basic stuff.

 

x2

While I haven't had to do it myself, it seems that you could pull your existing drive shaft, measure flange to flange (at level ride height) then find a local drive shaft shop and have yours shortened. It just seems like a lot less hassle, and fewer things that could go wrong than re-working your entire rear suspension; unless of course you need to re-work your entire rear suspension anyways...

 

Yup!

If it starts raining you roll up the window, not chop the cab the window height.

 

I say do it. There are lots of people who relocate their axles and stretch wheelbase a bit for various reasons - usually the front because it easy esp when doing a SAS, but not uncommon in rear of a 4runner due to rear door proximity when dealing with big tires on low lift. Plus the exta length may feel more stable off-road.

If only going back an inch, try leaf relocation plates first since it's the least invasive option before chopping and welding and go from there.

Sick paint job on your rig btw.

 

Thanks bro! I like your attitude, you were the only positive response.
So I figured out a really easy way to move my axle when the time comes, get longer leaf springs and all ill have to do is move my shock and shackle hangers and its a done deal.
However for now I did locate a driveshaft shop that will shorten/lengthen my driveshaft for 200$. So for now I'm going to have it shortened 2"and when I get the 37" military takeoffs on double beadlocks and start wheeling this thing harder I'm going to get longer springs, move the axle back and trim it to match.

The paint job is actually a skull I printed up and made a stencil out of and about 100$ in rustoleum camo colors!

 

Relocate the axle and go with LINKS! Ditch the leaf set up

 

If you do rear links do an SAS swap

 

$200 to SHORTEN your drive shaft? I had mine shortened and rebalanced for $55. I had one lengthened and balanced for less than $100. Find another shop.


You can also get spring perches with 3 holes to easily move your axle 1 inch forward or 1 inch backward from center.

 

I believe it's already SAS'd

 

Didn't know that it's hard to see

 

^well then why would he be talking about leafs on a 2nd gen 4runner?

if the shops you're looking at quoted you that much for driveline work, you need to find another shop.

 

That siris a very valid point. My mistake

 

Since when does a 95 3vz or a 99 5vz come with an R151?
Should be and R150F.