higher flow and pressure, i'm assuming

 

for my quick reference





https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post50685251

1997

 

or you could ask nicely and I could send you the factory ewds for a 96 or 97.

 

didn't do much yesterday. i pulled off the 3.4 fuel filter and a short hard line with fittings at both ends. that will go from the filter to the engine. then i'll use the bent section to clamp the soft line (from the tank) to the filter inlet. i got a double flare tool to make a "bead" so the hose can't slip off. the current banjo fitting will be cut off.

also got the driver's side engine mount installed

 

i did the thing

 

Nice. Looks about ready to go in.

I just saw you're using energy suspension mounts. Poly I'm assuming. I'm curious to see how much vibration you get with those. What was your specific line of reasoning for those.

 

Almost. I gotta wait for one more box of parts, then I can drop it in. Then I can fit power steering, fuel lines, vacuum lines, hood clearance, and transmission.

My reason for the stiffer mounts is I have increased torque from both the engine and dual cases. I don't want to crack a transfer case housing. As for comfort, I don't care, really. I'll have a v6 at my disposal, so the wheeeee factor outweighs most everything else.

 

See. That wasn't so hard.

 

yeah, but my welding sucks. flux core is convenient, but messy.

 

Ya, so is mine. Only reason I use it cause it is cheaper right now than buying gas. Flux core sucks on thin exhaust pipe.

 

Now wrap it with some high temp exhaust wrap.

 

Question- how far do normal crossover pipes go behind the heads? I should have asked before I welded it all up.

 

Header wrap is crap.

Put the original heat shield back on. If not, you better put some heat blanket on the firewall before you stuff the motor.

You want the pipe as close as you can. Just make sure you have the clearance for the bellhousing.

 

i got some of this for the firewall

http://www.thermotec.com/products/16...t-barrier.html

and i'll try fitting the heat shield back on, but i'm not making any promises.

the pipe is close to the bellhousing, but it clears.

 

I wouldn't say heat wrap is crap, It certainly has its advantages in certain applications.

Could you measure from your engine mounts to the firewall, and compare that to the distance on the block/exhaust to make sure you have clearance?

I'd try to put the heat shields on, even if they have to be massaged with a hammer to fit.

 

Hey Ian, .....

Would something akin to thermoshield work? I know guys with pretty serious hot rods that get flaming hot back there who use that type of stuff against the fire wall. Obviously I'm using it for other applications, but I am using it over the trans hump and towards the front near the firewall. Its amazing how well it defects the heat.

 

Yeah, I got some of the Kevlar stuff. Good up to 3000.

I got my last engine-related parts today, but nasty weather kept me from working on it. Tomorrow should be nicer, and I get my dipstick stuff on Thursday. I might have this engine ready before I run out of weekends for a while. (I'll be working 60-hour weeks for the next month, so the engine swap will be put on hold for a while)

 

All that extra work is just to pay for the SAS right? Well that and the home theater system for the pup right?

 

ha, yeah... sure.

i'm actually going to be selling the pop-up in favor of a hard-side. nothing too big.
as for the sas, that'll most likely be coming in a year or two, so i have plenty of time to save up for that.

yesterday i got my intake back on and tapped out the dip stick hole to put a plug in. a 3/8-16 tap fits easily with no extra drilling. i'm guessing a m10x1.25 would also work, but i didn't have one on hand. oil pan stuff tomorrow.

 

Sad to hear about the pup. Your thread was what convinced my wife to let me buy one. We're even headed to the beach for 4 days over spring break. I don't blame you for wanting a hard side. So much work in the roof though...

On another note, why are you plugging up the dipstick hole? Are you going to check oil levels some other way? Is that a necessary step with the 22re to 5vz swap?