How much should I pay for an engine?
#1
How much should I pay for an engine?
There are lots of options on ebay, a bit on some random websites, three at my local junk yard and one on craigslist, but how much should I pay for a 3.4?
There is a guy locally selling a 2004 3.4 out of a taco and its 5 speed and supercharged, 96k miles, and that just sounds so perfect, but how much should I give him, if any, and trust a junk yard with their 90 day parts warranty.
I've bought cars, but never engines, he has it mostly complete, he's going to run an ls engine on his tacoma, which is built and seems like a good reason to take out an engine, and sell it..
Suggestions, recommendations, how much did you pay for your engine?
There is a guy locally selling a 2004 3.4 out of a taco and its 5 speed and supercharged, 96k miles, and that just sounds so perfect, but how much should I give him, if any, and trust a junk yard with their 90 day parts warranty.
I've bought cars, but never engines, he has it mostly complete, he's going to run an ls engine on his tacoma, which is built and seems like a good reason to take out an engine, and sell it..
Suggestions, recommendations, how much did you pay for your engine?
#5
You guys are so lucky, nothing around here goes for that cheap, there was an old 3.0 that had a blown head gasket for $600, and it sold for that.
Once, I saw an old 4runner with 200K 3.4 rolled, and it was still going for $3500.
If I would to add a supercharger later, would it not cost me like $1200 minimum?
If so, that would make the 2200 price worth it? that's the best deal locally, no delivery... should i Pull the trigger?
Here is a link to the local forum where i found it. .. language is not regulated.
pictures at the bottom
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthr...D-7th-injector
Once, I saw an old 4runner with 200K 3.4 rolled, and it was still going for $3500.
If I would to add a supercharger later, would it not cost me like $1200 minimum?
If so, that would make the 2200 price worth it? that's the best deal locally, no delivery... should i Pull the trigger?
Here is a link to the local forum where i found it. .. language is not regulated.
pictures at the bottom
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthr...D-7th-injector
#6
For what it's worth, I paid $1,200 for a motor (that turned out to have 2 cracked heads and a blown HG) with 125K miles and all related (and possibly related) parts I would need for my swap from a guy parting out a 97 4Runner in Reno a year ago.
Later in June/July when I decided to get another motor I found a guy in Sac that was parting a 2wd, auto Tacoma and wanted $1,200 for his motor (I didn't get into details as to what all he was willing to part with for that $1,200).
I ended up buying a long block from a junk yard (with 6 month warranty) for $1,200.
I guess, what I'm saying is around here $1,200 for a motor is par for the course...at least for me it has been.
EDIT: These were all for non-super charged 3.4s.
Later in June/July when I decided to get another motor I found a guy in Sac that was parting a 2wd, auto Tacoma and wanted $1,200 for his motor (I didn't get into details as to what all he was willing to part with for that $1,200).
I ended up buying a long block from a junk yard (with 6 month warranty) for $1,200.
I guess, what I'm saying is around here $1,200 for a motor is par for the course...at least for me it has been.
EDIT: These were all for non-super charged 3.4s.
Last edited by SacRunner; Jan 28, 2013 at 10:38 AM.
#7
There's one on Craigslist here in Little Rock for $500 that includes wiring harness and probably anythign else you want. Low miles too. $800 is more common, but BUY A DONER if at all possible- you'll thank us later.
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#8
I can't remember the last time I saw a 3.4 for sale in my area on craigslist.
This is toyata country here and 3.4's are covetted and rarely seen for sale I would agree I would want a running doner to see milage plus check compression before I would shell out more than 3 or 4 hundred
This is toyata country here and 3.4's are covetted and rarely seen for sale I would agree I would want a running doner to see milage plus check compression before I would shell out more than 3 or 4 hundred
Last edited by canuck351; Jan 28, 2013 at 12:45 PM.
#9
Registered User

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 342
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
I paid $1000 for mine about 2 years ago, came with spare alt and 2 spare starters. I knew the seller so knew it was in good shape. Just tossing it in the mix, bought out of bullhead city right across from laughlin and I'm down here in Vegas just for comparison...
#10
DONOR vehicle cause it will come with what you need for swap(ECU,wiring HARNESS,etc)
After you rape and pilage then sell off what is left to recoup what you paid and you should break even steven....
After you rape and pilage then sell off what is left to recoup what you paid and you should break even steven....
#11
Donor vehicle.
BUY A VEHICLE! and sell it when your swap is complete.
I sold a 3.4 with 180k on it with everything needed for a swap for $1,000. I let him hear it run before pulling it and it was in nice shape.
BUY A VEHICLE! and sell it when your swap is complete.
I sold a 3.4 with 180k on it with everything needed for a swap for $1,000. I let him hear it run before pulling it and it was in nice shape.
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
Old thread here....
But I part 96-2002 4Runners out, and I sell motors for between $1000-$1500. My motors come complete with everything; Engine, harness, ECU, body plug cuts, OBDII port cut, All accessories, Evap, air cleaner, AFM (or MAF if later), ignitor, fan clutch, belts, all hoses/lines/wiring UNCUT, battery harness with female side, and anything else you can think of needing.
Buying partial engines or incomplete setups is asking for trouble, as you usually end up spending more money in the long run trying to source parts. Get all the parts you need from ONE vehicle, the first time.
P.s., I have two engines for sale at this time
But I part 96-2002 4Runners out, and I sell motors for between $1000-$1500. My motors come complete with everything; Engine, harness, ECU, body plug cuts, OBDII port cut, All accessories, Evap, air cleaner, AFM (or MAF if later), ignitor, fan clutch, belts, all hoses/lines/wiring UNCUT, battery harness with female side, and anything else you can think of needing.
Buying partial engines or incomplete setups is asking for trouble, as you usually end up spending more money in the long run trying to source parts. Get all the parts you need from ONE vehicle, the first time.
P.s., I have two engines for sale at this time
#13
Ok I'll be the odd man out on this one I guess.
Everyone said get the entire car, I would have to agree. It would have made my swap easier down to the point of just pulling even fasteners off the donor truck instead of having to run to the Ace hardware to buy metric fasteners. Having the entire donor will make the swap easier. Not to mention if you're willing to spend the time following the swap you can recoup a lot of your inital outlay on parting it out. This for me was another sticking point, I realized I would most likely not have the time or really the patience to part the other vehicle out, that and again I'd have no where to store it. I did make some money back on selling the old tired 3.0 though.
Now realistically getting a wrecked donor was not a possibility for me. I live in a neighborhood that I'm sure if I towed a wrecked car into my driveway it wouldn't be until the end of the day before my landlord called me.
It looks like when I looked around that the standard cost for a local motor would run about 1000, though a complete donor maybe not much more. My other issue here was I couldn't find a place that would sell me a complete donor. But and it's a big one, it also depends on how popular Toyotas are locally. If you're in an area where Toyotas are very popular then Toyotas do not last very long and because of that junkyards or salvage yards can charge what ever they want.
Without finding anything local for a while I also check remotely, I believe the price at that point jumped to 2000ish.
I think I remember in total going to the junkyard maybe 6 times total to get everything I need for the swap.
1. checking the motor out while still in the car, I would have loved to run a compression test at this point but the radiator fan against the radiator so I couldn't.
2. picking up the motor.
3. getting the evap
4. getting the a/c amplifier that I later realized I didn't need
5-6. trying to piece together the stock air intake, that ironically I didn't end up using.
If I had the donor I wouldn't have to do that, course when you think that you'd be out of a place to live with a donor sitting in front of the house then it doesn't sound so bad.
If you plan ahead you can minimize running back and forth.
I have recently been looking around for a s/c just to complicate things further, the best priced one I've seen has been 800 but wasn't complete, more complete ones tend to range into the 1200 price point. At that point your motor with supercharger for 2200 sounds pretty reasonable. I might try to interject to the seller that that includes you running back and grabbing other items that you'll need for the swap. Actually looking at your link, including the electronics you'll need for the supercharger ie the injector and the pulley it's actually a pretty good deal in my opinion.
Everyone said get the entire car, I would have to agree. It would have made my swap easier down to the point of just pulling even fasteners off the donor truck instead of having to run to the Ace hardware to buy metric fasteners. Having the entire donor will make the swap easier. Not to mention if you're willing to spend the time following the swap you can recoup a lot of your inital outlay on parting it out. This for me was another sticking point, I realized I would most likely not have the time or really the patience to part the other vehicle out, that and again I'd have no where to store it. I did make some money back on selling the old tired 3.0 though.
Now realistically getting a wrecked donor was not a possibility for me. I live in a neighborhood that I'm sure if I towed a wrecked car into my driveway it wouldn't be until the end of the day before my landlord called me.
It looks like when I looked around that the standard cost for a local motor would run about 1000, though a complete donor maybe not much more. My other issue here was I couldn't find a place that would sell me a complete donor. But and it's a big one, it also depends on how popular Toyotas are locally. If you're in an area where Toyotas are very popular then Toyotas do not last very long and because of that junkyards or salvage yards can charge what ever they want.
Without finding anything local for a while I also check remotely, I believe the price at that point jumped to 2000ish.
I think I remember in total going to the junkyard maybe 6 times total to get everything I need for the swap.
1. checking the motor out while still in the car, I would have loved to run a compression test at this point but the radiator fan against the radiator so I couldn't.
2. picking up the motor.
3. getting the evap
4. getting the a/c amplifier that I later realized I didn't need
5-6. trying to piece together the stock air intake, that ironically I didn't end up using.
If I had the donor I wouldn't have to do that, course when you think that you'd be out of a place to live with a donor sitting in front of the house then it doesn't sound so bad.
If you plan ahead you can minimize running back and forth.
I have recently been looking around for a s/c just to complicate things further, the best priced one I've seen has been 800 but wasn't complete, more complete ones tend to range into the 1200 price point. At that point your motor with supercharger for 2200 sounds pretty reasonable. I might try to interject to the seller that that includes you running back and grabbing other items that you'll need for the swap. Actually looking at your link, including the electronics you'll need for the supercharger ie the injector and the pulley it's actually a pretty good deal in my opinion.
Last edited by ultimase; Mar 8, 2013 at 05:52 AM.
#14
I was able to find a wrecker that just got a wrecked 4runner in. They were able to get everything pulled and loaded on a pallet and even loaded that into my buddies truck with a forklift. I got every thing I needed in stop. Its knowing what you'll need before even buying anything that helps.
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