Would like to keep the battery in the stock 3.0 location and change the intake piping. If anyone did this could you post pics and tell us how you did it and what parts you bought?

Thanks.

 

You'd have to do some sort of custom intake, because there really isn't enough room to fit the stock airbox anywhere else.

I'm thinking about removing the intake silencer and all that and seeing if I can find an airbox that will fit behind the fuse block, above the wheel well, and route the intake out through the side of fender.

 

Its really not that hard to move the battery, i would just do that.

 

Well to move the battery I need to do some welding. I don't want to pay for that and I dont have a welder.
I dont have a complete intake, just the inlet hose so I thinking about finding a universal flex hose and a compact cone filter and calling it a day. I dont care if its a hot air intake, I just need a filter on the end of the maf.

 

I did mine a little different added a battery and intake with a aftermarket K&N Style air filter but no stock air box



I used a already existing hole in the fender and a hook mount style battery hold down with the red top ultima battery on the drivers side and had to turn the over flow 180 degree's to get the Ultima laid on it's side to fit.I left the stock battery where it is from the factory so now the second battery powers all my extras and the blue thing on top in the picture is a battery isolator from the alternator to charge both battery's and it work very well.

 

You cant really even do a battery-intake swap on a 3vze anyways. The intake plenum is facing the driver's side, which the battery is NOT on ...

 

UK did the 3.4 swap and wants to keep the battery on the stock 3.0 side.

 

How're you going to affix your new motor mounts for the 3.4 without welding then?

 

There is no welding of the motor mounts to swap the 3.0 with the 3.4 engine, you reuse the 3.0 brackets & isolators.

 

im sure you could make a short intake with a filter and make a spot for the maf sensor

 

I didn't do any welding when i did my swap..

I have an optima, so i bolted the red tray down to teh fender and strapped it down.. it is SOLID..

 

I didn't weld my tray in either. I bolted it down. Still solid after 6 months of wheeling.

 

My tray and holder are also bolted in, and rock solid. Personally, I would suggest NOT welding in the tray. If you run a non-sealed battery you'll want to be able to remove the tray to neutralize any leaking battery acid that makes it's way underneath it.

 

I also bolted my tray in. I used counter sunk bolts through the bottom.

 

Interesting. Where did you guys get the trays from?
What did you use to connect the longer positive wire to the original?

 

2 things Bolt the tray in as mentioned above and get rid of the original battery wire put all new stuff in Preferably BIGGER, because u are running a longer cable Put a junction block right beside or below the fuse block on the passenger side stock location and wire in the fuse block and starter to this.

 

I kept the original battery position and ran the standard 3.0 airbox and it looks like this. There would be more of an angle on the airflow meter but the body lift helped level it out.



all finished


Did this due to the pros out weighing the cons fro my particular setup but am looking at making a better airbox or at least a better lid later on to help improve flow.

 

Nice job - very 22re-esque! I was kind of noodling the same idea since I have the 3.0 box and my 3.4 box is missing.

 

Interesting. I went with a K&N with homebrew adapter plate. Works ok. More of a hot air intake than anything but I could put a cool air hose directed at the filter if I cared enough.

 

The guy who helped me with my swap convinced me to keep it on the same side. He just chopped it down.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l-swap-187035/

the nice thing is I have a ton of room now for an auxiliary battery