nice job, mt_goat! this is still on my "to-do" list. i was going to try and make something using a combination of the original brackets from the 3.0 and 3.4, but yours is making me think there's got to be an easier way to go. i never really thought about connecting it at the flange...

 

Just a little update. I finally got in a long trip with this truck, a 2000 mile tour of Colorado. It did great performance wise, cruising up mountain passes with ease, it was hard to keep it under the speed limit actually. The supercharger makes altitude changes a breese and it was hard to get the grin off my face most of the time (except when filling up at the gas stations). I actually got some fairly good MPGs, around 18 mpg in the mountains. There is much less wind resistance in the higher elevations so the MPGs goes up. Best mpg was 18.6, worst was 11.19 (mostly offroad wheeling)

One problem was a broken supercharger belt somewhere near the Colorado/Kansas border. The belt only had about 3000 miles on it, I'd heard they were prone to failure so I had a spare one with me to put on. Changing it requires first removing the PS belt and AC belt, so it took me about 1 hour 45 mins on the side of the road to change it. It broke after I canceled the cruise control and was coasting which leads me to believe what Gadget has said, that the belt is prone to slipping off the idler pulley and binding up during decelerations. Gadget sells a better idler pulley that has sides to keep the belt from slipping off. I just put one of them on:
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1260518496
I'll let you know how well it works, hopefully after about 60,000 miles of use.

The only place my water temps got a little high was climbing up into the mountains from Denver. It was about 95* F in Denver that day. The coolant temp started to get above 230* F so I backed off the speed some and it came down pretty quickly. Most of the trip the coolant temps stayed in the 205-210 F range and the oil temps stayed in the 220-230 F range I noticed on one big hill climbing up to Santa Fe my oil temp hit 250* F. So again I backed off the speed some to cool it down. I'm sending off an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for UOA today.

I also got a few CELs on the trip. P0300, P0302, P0305 (flashing misfire codes) How the heck does the ECU know if there was a misfire anyway? And P0171 (system too lean code) BTW my wideband A/F gauge showed the A/F ratio to be good, not too lean at all. I suspect these were related to altitude changes or a tank or 2 of bad gas because they seem to appear only for about one tank of gas then dissappear and not come back.



Still some snow up there:



These jeeps were slow and didn't want to let me pass so I had to follow them up the trail.



My wife's employer put us up in this nice hotel in Vail for 3 nights. It was strange having valet parking for my truck but I didn't worry about door dings with my sliders hehe.

 

Sounds nice, and like it is working well for you. I will have to look at the idler pully from URD, i had seen it before but didn't know why you would want it. now i do.

 

I had thought that it was mainly the 5 speed guys that had problems breaking SCer belts, but mine sure didn't last very long. It was a real PITA changing it in the middle of a vacation too. Maybe the URD 2.1" Supergrip pulley put some extra stress on it too.

 

Hey Dale, nice to see an update. You went through Santa fe without trying to get in touch with me though?!?!?!? You suck!

I get those CEL codes from time to time as well. I get the misfire code sometimes when I'm running at high boost for an extended period of time (like up a big hill). I suspect the "misfires" are due to the IK-22 spark plugs I have, since their screw tops tend to loosen up and lose connection, but every time I check the plugs they seem fine. Planning to go to the copper ones eventually to see if they help. Are you running a .032-.035 spark plug gap? Sometimes I can feel some "little misfires" also when running in high-boost even though a CEL never throws, I usually take that as a hint that the plugs are not working and need a re-gap/cleaning/replacement.

As for the lean code, I get that one too sometimes when I let the engine idle for a while. Not sure where it comes from, it usually clears itself out after a few hundred miles of driving, unless I clear it first; I've always thought the ECU is whining because it has to turn the fuel trims way down to reach 14.7 AFR at idle (that idle/coast area of the fuel map it a real toughy to tune). My AFR is always fine on my wideband gauge when the CEL throws, just like yours.

Wierd about that S/C belt, I'm gonna go buy myself a spare now that you've got me all scared. I like the sound of the URD idler pulley though...

 

Yeah sorry Brian, but I did think about you as I was driving through NM. We were on the flip side of a long trip and pretty tired by then.

I'm running .041 gap on those plugs IIRC (if I remember correctly). Now that you mention it the misfire codes were on long hills under higher boost. And the P0171 was during a lot of idling while 4 wheeling.

I'm going back to CO at the end of the month for the CO4RJ. See the trip planning section here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f15/

 

No big deal on passing through, we do need to meet up eventually. Have you seen the new rims I got for the 4runner?

Yeah, Midiwall did some testing with a few other supercharged guys and found that .035 or a bit lower seemed to net better power and less misfires, so I would recommend re-gapping next chance you get. I'm running .031 and feel like that might be a bit small, but I have noticeably smoother feel and somewhat smoother power compared to stock gap; I didn't have a .032 shim at the time I was gapping but that's what I would preferrably use.

As for the lean code, I've just learned to ignore it since I know it's fine watching my AFR gauge.

 

Guess I'll pull the plugs and regap then. I'll also tighten the heck out of those little caps too.

New rims? I'll have to looky.

 

Hows your alt do with all the fans?
Bigblock

 

No problems but I do have an upgraded alt. The numbers written on it is the output (idle/peak)

 

That looks like the factory alt? Where did you get those numbers?

 

This thread should explain that question:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-pics-140704/


EDIT:
Here's another one with contact info:
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthrea...ght=alternator

 

Well as I posted in Raj's thread here (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...2/index10.html) ,my ORS cross-over has developed a crack.

It had started to make a little noise that sounded like an exhaust leak and sure enough there was. Some others in Raj's thread had gotten it out by lowering the trans a little bit, so I tried that and it worked to get it half way out. Then I found to get it all the way out I needed to raise the tranny back up to its normal spot.

Here's some pics:







The crack ran along side the weld.

 

I am willing to bet that crack was caused by the heat wrap. Heat wrap is bad in the long term. I amkes the headers/pipe get much hotter then it usually would and in your case the pipe was extra hot inside the wrap and then cooler in the spot that is cracked.

Wrapping it all up can still lead to cracking/warping. Had it happen on an old ford escort once.

 

I pulled the heat wrap away from the crack before I took the pic. It was wrapped evenly to start with, but I think the leak forced the wrap to loosen up in that spot. But you may be right.

 

Here's what the wrap looked like to start with (new):

 

Got it cleaned up so I can do some welding on it and it does look like the metal on the left bank got too hot. The whole right side looks good. So I'm thinking the while the wrap helped hold the heat in and basicly melt the pipe to the point of scaling over, its not solely responsable for the over-heating. After pulling the plugs I see one cylinder (closest to the firewall) on the left side is running hotter than the others. That plug tip was slightly melted, enough that it needed regapped. All the others looked normal, and even that one looked normal except for the extra wear. By pure luck my EGT probe is closest to that cylinder and just in front of the burnt section of pipe so I was seeing the hottest temp on my EGT gauge. IIRC it never got over 1500* F, usually 1450 was the max.

Pics:

 

You may want to look at getting the cross-over ceramic coated to better deal with the heat. I sent mine, plus the exhaust manifolds, to Jet Hot Coatings and the coating does what it's claimed to do. After turning off the engine I can touch the manifolds after sitting for a few minutes.

 

Yup, gotta agree.
Exhaust manifolds/headers should not be wrapped. That holds in way too much heat.
Every header manf. that I've seen (took the time to read all the print) will void their warranty if the header is heat wrapped.




Fred

 

Hey Dale

Sorry to hear about your header. I will add that after i replaced mine back in October 2007 with the replacement from ORS, which i had cermamic coated by a guy in Colorado Springs, it hasnt cracked again. I also built a bracket out of the original 3.0 exhaust/transmission bracket. to help stabalize the exhaust and take the torque off the upper portion of the crossover. I have to aggree with most of the other people on here about the header wrap causing the problem. ORS at the time of my replacement suggested that i do 2 things and they were to brace the exhaust system at the trans, and put a flex compling somewhere before the cat if possible.

Hey Fred, Sorry for arguing with u in the past about the ethanol. I didnt know enough at the time and thought i did.