Good idea, I probably should have removed it. I think I used a smaller bit first to get the hole started (pilot hole). The final bit size I used was a "U" size, .368". It was a very tight fit for my dip stick insert thingy, I probably should have enlarged the hole about one thou or two bigger (or made the insert smaller) because I had to pound it in. But its better to have it a little tight than too loose. I was just worried about possibly cracking the block I had to pound it so hard. I didn't get it completely seated in mine, but close enough. I just used my eyeballs on the angle, but was very carefull, I must have stopped drilling about 40 times to check the angle. You only have one shot at getting it right so don't blow it! That ORS guide wasn't avaliable back then, sounds like a winner.

 

thanks for the info !

 

Screamer, I did mine with a 3/8" 90* electric angle drill. I used a small bit as a pilot, and then I drilled the U sized hole, using a short U bit that I got from Grainger. The short bit and the angle drill just fit, and the actual drilling is not that difficult with a sharp bit and regular oiling of the drill site.

Be sure to cover the guts of the block with something to prevent filings from being flung into the crank area, since you will be penetrating the inner wall of the block at an angle.

I, too, would have probably opted for the ORS drill guide, had it been available at the time. The Mk I eyeball worked out pretty well for me, though.

 

thanks, breknraj. i have skimmed through your thread as well since posting here. both of you have made me feel more confident about doing this myself. i'm not going with the ors guide. i'm about halfway through the drilling now, and it looks like everything is lined up pretty well. i'm using the letter "u" bit with a right angle drill. i haven't actually pulled the pan off yet, which is one of the reasons i stopped where i did. i will make sure the crank is well covered; i just don't know if i'll be able to cover it well enough to satisfy myself i'll post further progress in my own thread so as not to hijack mt goat's. thanks, guys!

 

Took my longest trip to date last weekend and everything went pretty good. No codes and she runs great! I was cruising along doing about 75mph when a 4runner started coming up behind me. So just as he was getting close I started to accelerate and matched his speed just as we were starting up a hill. He punched it and I tried to keep up but I got out run. So I lost my first race It was a humbling experince LOL. I think I should have dropped it out of overdrive to keep the RPMs up higher. It looked like maybe about a 1999 4runner, but I don't really know those body styles very well.

The air temps on the trip were hitting low 90's and my coolant temps were sitting about 205-210 F max. The engine oil temps were about 220-225 F max. ATF temps are always cool, like 180 F max. AC on all the time of course.

Once the cruise control is set the truck holds 75mph great, hills or headwinds have little effect except the supercharger winds up sometimes hitting as much as 6-7 psi of boost just to hold 75mph going up hills. It has never dropped out of OD yet.

Best MPG on the trip was 15.4. That was at 70-75mph on a very hilly freeway with one little race thrown in. Interesting note: that was also about what I was getting with the 3.slo too right before I took it out and since then I added sliders, budbuilt belly armor, dual transfer cases and an Allpro rear bumper.

The real test will be a trip to Colorado in July, hotter weather and bigger hills.

 

Interesting you got beat with a super and that gearing combo... You should have had him hands down without even a sweat...

 

I might have if I'd thought to downshift. Maybe he had a SC too. Of course the winch, sliders, belly armor, bumpers, 33's etc... are a handicap too.

 

Usually on the highway I drop out of O/D if I'm pushing high boost (5psi+) going up hills or the like. Lower boost and higher rpms are healthier than higher boost and lower rpms IMO, plus the engine makes horsepower more easily at higher rpms.

 

Maybe I'm getting close to the limit then. I think I'm geared lower than you Brian, 33's and 5.29s?

 

Yeah you're way lower than me, I'm running 285's and 4.30's.

How many rpms's do you pull at 75mph? With those dual cases, I'd almost consider regearing back down to like 4.56's or 4.30's lol... I think I'm at like 2500rpms at 75 but not 100% sure, I'll pay more attention next time I drive down to ABQ.

That's not to say you're really near a limit anywhere... I tend to avoid high boost at low rpms for extended periods of time because if I wait too long the damn FTC1 O2 signal conditioner freaks out. I do get 20-22 mpg hwy though

 

According to my calculations, I'm pulling about 2900rpms at 75mph, and you're doing about 3600rpms, does that sound right?

 

About 2800, I'm pretty happy with the gearing now. It was too high with the 3.slo, but add another 150HP and it works good hehe.

Freaks out, what's it do?

Wow, that's great MPG, sure you're not running too lean?

 

No way, here use this:

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

Hmm, I might be off on my estimates for transmission gearing and stuff... now I'm all curious and will have to check.

Yeah, it's the same problem everyone else with an FTC1-E or ESC1 have. Usually, when I'm running at 4-5 psi of boost (1 psi absolute, remember I'm at 6000-7000 ft ASL) the AFR drops down to 11.5-12:1 like it should and you can feel the engine's torque go up nicely. But sometimes, like during or right after warming up or if the engine is feeling pissy, as soon as I hit max boost the thing freaks out and starts dumping fuel at about 9.0:1, in boost or vacuum. It also totally screws all of the fuel trims in the stock ECU for some reason. Only way to fix it is to pull over and pull the EFI fuse to reset the ECU and FTC. I haven't had it happen in a while, but I've been going light on the throttle these days to conserve fuel.

Naw, I've got the XD-16 displaying real-time AFR and I'm doing 14.7:1 in vacuum and up to 1 psi of absolute presssure, and over 1 psi absolute it drops to about 12:1. The mileage is about in line with what other people get with supercharged 3rd gens.

Remember I live in the mountains too, so the air is thin and highway mileage gets better. Last time I drove around in southern Arizona I got about 15 city 18 hwy, but I was zipping around pretty good too.

 

Yeah the A340F has a .71:1 overdrive gear, sounds like your calulator was using 1:1 for 4th gear. Actually we are 1:1 in 3rd gear. That calulator I posted has our tranny preprogramed into it, just select it in the pull down menu. Its very accurate.

Yes... that thin air cuts the air resistance a lot.

 

That calulator says you are doing 2343 rpms at 75mph. Sound right?

 

Yeah I had the wrong gear ratios. Here are the ones I found now:

Toyota A340F Auto Transmisison
1st- 2.804
2nd- 1.531
3rd- 1.000
4th- 0.705
Rev- 2.393

With those numbers I'm pulling 2300rpm at 75mph, which sounds about right. I personally wouldn't mind having 4.56's, but the jump from 4.30-4.56 is so small that it's pretty much not worth it compared to other things I want to buy

I'm curious how much my 4Runner weighs with a full tank of gas and me in it... I'm guessing about 4500-4700 lbs but I'm not sure.

 

Brian, is there a reason you think in absolute psi? On my turbo diesel the wastegate opens at 32psi, no matter what altitude, even thou I live above sea level 32psi is still 32 psi... just like at 2-3 psi you would still be below absolute pressure, due to the altitude there is a positive flow to it. It does take more work to equal the same boost at elevation thou...


Here is a tranny chart I made...

 

I just mentioned it to Dale because our FTC's have MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors on them and therefore think in terms of absolute pressure rather than gauge pressure. We do have the TRD boost gauge which reads gauge pressure, but it does nothing to control our engines' tunes.

As my tune is set right now, the FTC takes over the oxygen sensor's signal at 1psi absolute pressure, which ends up being about 4-5psi gauge pressure where I live. For a while I was running it so that it kicked in at 0 psi alsolute, but the lower I go the more problems I have with the FTC freaking out on me, so at 1psi it will have to stay. Hopefully I'll get W/MI injection in the future to get a little extra oomph and to make sure my EGT's stay in line (I'll have to get an EGT gauge too, which will suck to install).

 

Gotcha, yeah I figured that was it as I was lighting the BBQ.... My CTD works the same, thou in gauge pressure it always seems to open the wastegate at 32psi.. .thou thats disabled now.

EGT's are a pain thats for sure... too bad the roots style would be a nightmare, if even possible, to intercool. I know they have an aftercooler on the blower for the 4.0.

What do your intake temps look like compared to ambient?