Find a 3.4 vehicle and trace the evap lines its actually really really easy if you have the evap canister for the 3.4

if you cant find a vehicle to inspect. i recommend this as the best option. but if you cant i can send you some pics i believe.

 

Btw Dale i found the part number for that bung to screw into the stock oil cooler location so that you could mount a remote filter, cooler, or just another filter.

part number is 90404-19013 and its called a Union.

 

So is that 3 engine oil coolers?

 

I would really appreciate a picture of the evap system on a 3.4. That is the only code I am throwing right now.

 

Nope, the factory oil cooler plus an aftermarket cooler.

 

It was a little damaged in the wreck but here it is:

 

Not a picture, but a schematic nonetheless..

http://www.tankota.net/repair/Repair...e/cip04515.pdf

 

Quick question about engines from auto's I've read that they won't work with manual trannies cause they don't have a hole milled in them for the pilot bearing on the input of the tranny. Can anyone confirm this? I've found a decent engine for a good price but it's from an auto and I've got an R-151.

Thanks, Late
Joe

 

Sorry Joe I can't confirm that.

Update:
I finally got all the fans installed and the skid plate vents cut. Still have to sandblast and paint it but there is suppost to be some hot weather Fri (high of 92 F forcasted) so I'm putting it on without painting for a test run to get an idea of the results before next summer.

Here's the "under the truck heater core" now with forced air cooling:


Sounds interesting with all the fans running

The new location of the tranny cooler is behind the skid plate, it was reinforced with some angle iron to make up for the cut outs, and a screen cut to help keep out bugs, small rocks, etc...:




It was a tight fit back there because of my extra idler arm:

The tranny fan and the oil cooler fan are both run with one Hayden 3647 fan controller set to come on when the tranny temp hits 180 F or when ever the AC is switched on. Both have a bypass switch to turn off for high water (same switch the Taurus fan uses).

The TJM bumper is undergoing delicate surgery right now:

More on that later

I remembered the last time I bought a lower radiator hose for my 3.slow (cheap hose from Pepboys) it came with a spring like coil inside. I ask what that was for and the parts guy said it keeps the hose from collapsing under the suction of the water pump. Toyota factory hoses don't have them (probably don't need them with a good hose). But I got to thinking maybe the lower hose is getting sucked closed under higher rpms, so I found that old hose and pulled the coil out and here it is:

Next time I have the coolant drained I'll stick it in the lower hose just to see.

 

Ok, the bumper is not finished yet so when you look at the pic please don't say, yuk that looks like crap. I still have to add the grill screen (which will make it look much better) and the new horizontal winch mounting plate. But I threw it on and went for test drive yesterday, it was offically 93 at the airport but the hottest temp I saw on my home thermometer was 90.


At 75mph, the coolant temps peaked out at about 210 F and the oil temps pealed out at 220 F. That's about what I was hoping for on the oil temp, the fan lowered it 10-15 degrees (it was 230-235 in the same conditions before adding the fan behind the oil cooler). The tranny temp is still nice and cool around the 180-190 range and I'm still bypassing the radiator ATF cooler.

I noticed the radiator fan doesn't run nearly as fast now on the highway and I'm pretty sure it because the temp sensor location here:

now has a direct flow of cool air to it, before the ATF cooler was in front of it as well as a lot of winch bumper. The fan controller now thinks the coolant temp is good and doesn't run the fan as fast. In fact, I know at times it was below 50% because when the AC compressor kicked on the fan speed would jump up to the automatic 50% setting. This leaves me some hope that had the ambeint temps been hotter the fan could have maintained the 210 by increasing the speed. I had the controller set to maintain the temp at 158. For those not familiar with the DCC controller it places the sensor in the coolest part of the radiator and has 9 different temp settings to choose from: 148,158,166,173,180,187,194,202,and 212.
Next test I'll try lowering it to the lowest 148 setting and test again (maybe today as this may be the last 90 degree day of the year) If that doesn't do enough I may have to move the sensor location to a hotter part of the radiator.

I just happened to be driving by a local Ford, Lincoln Mercury bone yard yesterday on my test drive so I stopped in and they had a 94 Lincoln Mark VIII fan for $35. I snapped it up as I've seen these go for $60-$100 on ebay plus shipping:

This is possibly my next step to try and cool this beast down. You can see the Mark VIII fan is bigger (18") than a Taurus fan on the right in the pic (I have an extra Taurus fan so it was easy to take the pic side by side). Interestly the fan motors on the two seem to be the same, the Mark VIII just has a bigger fan on it. I also have seen this guy on ebay with stats on this fan that shows a max amp draw of 30 amps (probably continuious after start-up) and he also recommends using the DCC FK35 controller for the Lincoln fan, (The controller I already have for my Taurus fan). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160160052211 So maybe this FK35 can handle the big Lincoln fan after all Brian. The Lincoln fan appears to be a perfect size for the 3.0 radiator, it almost competely covers the radiator with fan blades. The biggest problem with it appears to be the depth. But I think with my skinny aluminum radiator I can make it fit by cutting down the shroud to nearly nothing and mounting it very close to the radiator core. The factory copper brass radiator has a thicker core and it may be impossible to fit it on one of those.

 

looking good, glad the temps are coming down for you.

 

Dale- You had asked about comments I made in that thread about 3.0 mods regarding the thermostat location on the 3.0 and 3.4 blocks. This thread seems like a better place to post a response.
FYI- I use an infared thermometer to check temps.
The temp at the top of the motor is always hotter than the bottom (heat rises) and the aluminum components magnify this effect because heats travels faster through aluminum than steel (same reason aluminum rads work so much better). The alloy heads and intake will actually pull the heat up from the bottom of the motor, keeping it cooler than the top, so while the thermostat is fuctioning at it's given temp things are much hotter up top. Granted I know a lot of this heat is being generated in the heads, but it still matters because it's being circulated by the coolant and oil. Your issue is more complex because you have an independant heat source ( the supercharger) on top of the engine, I think this is causing even more heat saturation. At some point this saturation is overtaking your cooling system. So placing the component that regulates the coolant temp down low isn't a good idea for any motor, but yours more so. It may be possible to install some kind of inline t-stat housing in the upper thermostat hose while removing the factory one. I recall that some model of camaro had something like that, I'm thinking 94 or newer. Summit might have something aftermarket too. I know you had mentioned that you had ran the motor without the t-stat and you felt that it only affected warmup time, but I know that the cooling system needs that restriction to function properly, especially cooling systems with two stage t-stats. Hope this helps.

EDIT- I found that mounting the fan temp probe on the top of the rad right below the upper hose worked better for me, the gauge always shows cooler now than before with the fan clutch.

 

Did another test drive today after changing the fan controller to the lowest setting of 148. Everything else was the same as yesterday, ambient temp was 90 F. The coolant temp maxed out at 205 degrees at 75mph, 5 degrees cooler than yesterday and the oil temp didn't change. The fan was still running less than 50%, I'd guess about 30% of max speed. There is just too much air flow through the radiator at the heat sensor location for the controller to know to run more. I won't really know for sure until we get some 100+ degree days next summer but I think I might have this licked finally. The fan may run faster on it own when it gets hotter or I can move the heat sensor to a hotter part of the radiator so it gets hotter and runs the fan faster.

 

Yeah that will probably be where I'll move it to. I have lots of adjustment to the hotter side of the controller, just none left to the colder side.

 

hey dale why dont you use a direct temp sensor that actualy has contact with the coolant then it wouldnt have these issues with the air cooling your temp sensor for your fan.

 

Yeah that would be a good way too, not sure if my DCC controller would work with that since it uses a special probe.

 

Dale, I know you have a temp sensor in the upper rad hose, do you have one in the bottom to see how much your cooling the coolant?

 

No, that would be nice though. I've already got 6 gauges and there isn't much more room. I have thought about getting an extra sensor and doing some kind of switch to go back and fourth between two sensors and make one gauge dual purpose.

 

Search around some. You should be able to find a dual gauge.
A couple are available for tranny temps for sure.




Fred

 

That would be cool... I like gauges

Do you have a Scan Gauge?