suprathepeg

Wow that really sucks that the stat removal didn't help. It sure did for me lol.

K, deffinately put the stock pully back on!

Return as close to stock as you can so you can rule things out as they come. You need to start enjoying the drive for a while, lol.

Here is a thought; are there any coolant passages that run through the SC? Maybe one of those was blocked on installation?

It seems the further along with this you go the less offroadable your truck becomes. Adding another rad under the truck pretty much means this truck never leaves the street. How difficult would it be to run the truck without the SC for a while?

mt_goat

Nope, just the intake passages.

Not if its done right, I wouldn't do it with anything effecting ground clearance. I'm still hoping it isn't needed. I just removed the last tranny cooler in front of the radiator and it'll go behind the skid plate.

Removing the SC with be a PITA but does remain an option.

AH64ID

Is the oil temp pre cooler or post cooler?

thefallman

pwr makes an aftermarket radiator for our trucks. cheapest i found it was 350 i think.

btw i dont know how much you have checked into oil cooling and what temps your engine oil should be but i did awhile back and engine oil does its best work at 180 degrees above and below that fiction increases very fast. might try using a oil thermostat on your engine oil.

Hey Dale

you never disabled or bypassed the water to oil heat exchanger behind the oil filter. so your oil temps are going to spike when water does cause then the oil is being heated by the water.

mt_goat

The sensor is here in the hole with oil dripping out of it, I'm told that is the pump discharge port:

mt_goat

Yep, got one installed, it's part of the sandwich plate.

The factory oil cooler is still in place, so yes the coolant temp effects the oil temp and vise-a-versa.

AH64ID

wow those are pretty hi temps... thou if the coolant is hot will be hot too... So, thinking out loud, discharged oil has already been thru the cooler, which would make me think oil in the pan is 260*+??? WOW..

mt_goat

I was thinking the pump would be discharging the oil straight from the pan pickup tube. But yes, the temps at other places could be much higher than the sensor reading which has me worried. Good thing I run synthetic oil and change it every 3000 miles huh.

thefallman

the pump discharges to the oil filter oil goes thru the filter then is routed to oil/water heat exchanger.

in dales case it exits the pump and is either filtered then passed through the filter or vice versa, then it gets reheated by the oil/water heat exchanger.

so your thermostat never gets a chance to work because the oil never cooles because its getting constantly reheated.

you can get the bung, from toyota, that screws into the block to screw the oil filter too. replace the oil/water heat exchanger bolt that holds it to the block wit this and then use an extra filter or a remote oil filter plate to remove the heat exchanger or reroute it to another oil cooler. personally i would first just remove the water hoses and bypass them to each other to see what differnce you see.

hopefully this will fix the oil temp problems

plus its possible that your heat exhanger is plugged up one of mine, had bunches of rust in it from the block on my 3.0 and partially plugged it this would cause flow issue too.

mt_goat

I didn't know about the Toyota part to replace the oil cooler with a filter, interesting The oil does cool enough to close the oil thermostat when it sits overnight. Cold starts are the main time I'd want the oil cooler bypassed. The oil stat opens at 180 degrees.

I've thought about routing the coolant that goes through the factory oil cooler through another cooler but its pretty hard to reach those hoses. I've also thought about routing a completey separate coolant circut through the factory radiator ATF cooler (since it's not being used now) but I'm not sure there would be much gained there. No doubt it would help but the cost may out weight the benefits.

thefallman

yes but the point of having a thermostat isnt just for cold startups you can do just as much damage by overheating the oil. its to maintain the oil temp with in certian permameters.

i can probably find the part number for you on that, i ordered one for my truck when i was going to reroute the coolers and filters. during my swap but in order to do it all the way i wanted it would have been close to 400 dollars for the remote filters and coolers and all the other accessories thats for both the tranny and the engine.

the oil cooler and oil filter mounting places are identical in configuration the only differnce is instead of having a bung to mount a filter too, the heat exhanger has a bolt in the middle of it that tightents it down. you can get the bung that is used to tighten the filter down. and replace it in the heat exhanger mounting place.

mastacox

You should leave the flaps, they would close if the fan was blowing air faster than the ambient air speed on the highway, but my guess is you are getting more flow through the radiator at highway speeds than the fan can supply anyway. EDIT: Actually, I'm sure of it. A 12x12in area going 75 miles per hour is flowing about 6,600 cfm, a 24x24in area at the same speed is flowing more than 26,000 cfm... So based on the area of the readiator (not sure what it is), you're getting somewhere around 20,000 cfm, yes? Even a bigger fan won't help, you just need more radiator area to work with, or a more efiicient use of the area you've got.

For the record, it seems to me that the 3.4l's stock radiator is able to keep up with the demands of a Supercharged/URD'd engine. Perhaps you need to think harder about how you might custom-fab one into the stock location... or perhaps somewhere else. However, this might be much more work than it's worth if you have to start cutting body supports and stuff. I would look for an aluminum 3-core radiator from Summit that is for a different application, and see if there are any that would be semi-easily fabbed into place. Something for a pumped-up Mustang, Camaro, something like that. What do people use for a radiator with a Chevy 350 or Ford 305 swap??

I would NOT put a radiator in the spare tire location, it would get clogged with mud and junk, and get sprayed with rocks and stuff from the rear wheels. It will need to be somewhere protected, like the bed, and you will need a nice big electric fan on it.

Remember when I "jokingly" mentioned the possibility of a remote radiator in the bed? I may not have been too far off, it seems...

mastacox

Stupid question, but have we confirmed your water pump is in proper working condition Dale? Perhaps you can get a water pump "overdrive" pulley to get a little more water flow through that radiator of yours?

paulmofyourhand

Try driving with the heater on?

ewong

Something makes me think you didnt read all 24 pages of posts....

mt_goat

Too late... I just closed them all up. We'll see. I can open them back up if its worse.

I guess those calculations were for unobstructed air flow? I don't see any way I get that much air flow though this radiator. First off, most of the air flow has to go through the AC condensor, then there was the tranny cooler too (I just removed the last of those so that should help)

mt_goat

Yeah, basicly I'm running a heater all the time, but its outside the cab now, see here:
https://www.yotatech.com/50588785-post559.html

mt_goat

Not a stupid question, but I'm not sure how to test that... The overdrive pulley idea would be easier if the water pump wasn't driven off the timing belt.

suprathepeg

Dude if it isn't a huge deal why not put the original SC pully on?

Victor

Usually won't unless the thermostat wasn't opening all the way - thus obstructing flow. A properly working thermostat will let the engine get up to temp quicker (block flow to radiator) so that it can run more efficiently. A cooler thermostat only means it will open at a lower temp - doesn't affect the possible highest temp that can be reached because once it hits its opening temp it should open all the way - thus full coolant flow. I think the problem is that he has to switch to a much more efficient radiator (aluminum race type). Also - there are other coolants other than glycol that have higher heat dissipating ability but usually water will contaminate them.