So Dale, how's the truck? Any news on how things are running? Any cool Christmas presents for it? This thread is way too addictive to die

 

God, thats true. I go through and delete out my Subscribed threads, say once every couple of weeks, this one just keeps hanging in there though. Come on Dale...give us news.

 

Thanks for the interest, I did have a very merry Christmas. Santa brought me sliders and an All Pro rear bumper. Since they were a little off the 3.4 swap subject I started seperate threads for them:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/all-pro-rear-bumper-going-fit-one-way-another-99695/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/trail-gear-slider-install-100157/

The truck is running great but I was having a little trouble tuning the URD FTC because my old laptop couldn't handle running both the programs at the sametime without crashing. I just got a much more powerful laptop from a buddy over on CT (thanks Josh) and that should take care of the problem but I haven't gotten around to trying yet.

 

Very nice build. I am new to this site and wish I could have found this build a few months ago. Everybody on pirate 4x4 get pissed because I want to run an auto, then they see the IFS and call my truck junk. I love the crawlers, are they worth the money? Have you wheeled this a lot since the build? My auto already crawls better than the 5-speed, I have more control and feels like lower gears in the t-case. I am running the stock shroud and radiator with the tacoma fan clutch and 3.0 blade, never heats up, runs perfect temps, although I dont have the sc. I would never go to a taco radiator, the plastic/metal combo unit is junk. And your build made me very glad that I did the wiring myself. It took many hours but didnt have the problems, but I also have factory service manuals for both trucks and am already pretty good at wiring, which is a topic that scares most people. I am too poor to pay somebody to fix my junk so I just have to figure it out.

Thanks for the great build, hope to see more of your truck on here with updates.

 

Hey thanks, no I haven't wheeled much since the build, just enough to test it out really. The brakes were able to stop the truck when crawling in ultra-low but I could really feel some flexing going on, like maybe the motor mounts getting stretched to the max (I do have chains to limit them).

Not sure if the dual cases are worth the money yet. Like you say the auto does pretty good crawling. I had to buy a gear driven transfer case anyway so I got caught in that "well while I'm at it I might as well make it" a double case. There is a lot of extra work involved with the dual cases as you can see from my thread here.

Have you got the OBDII wired up on your truck? If so, do you know what engine temps are you're running at?

 

Yes the obd2 is wired in, and works great. I have the luxury of the snap on modis handheld diagnostic computer, I can basically graph out every single wire and sensor on my engine from my drivers seat, and can manually control most items on the engine for testing purposes from the dlc port. I need more pics of my wiring, I got swamped towards the end of my build and had to go quickly and didnt get the pics I should have. And I dont know the exact temp numbers off the top of my head, its been a few hundred miles since I last scanned the truck. The gauge in the dash is right below half, even up in the mountains wheeling the hell out of it in the snow and pulling the mountain in third gear doing 50 mph, it never heated up. I will go and try to plug her in this weekend and drive around with it plugged in and get some numbers for you, not sure how much it will help since we have snow on the ground here right now. It still warms the heater up in 2-3 miles, the gauge gets to the middle in 5-6 miles and stays there.

 

Wow that sounds great. How much do those run? Will it graph the fuel trims too?

Hey thanks that would help a lot. We have snow (ice really) on the ground here too, they say 5-10 inches more this weekend.

 

The modis we have is 12,000 dollars, and I am not kidding, and we have 2,000 in accesories. Go on ebay and type modis and you can find one for 4-5,000 its more of a specialized tool that most normal people would not have, but after using it, I would have to own one if I ever moved on from my mechanics job. I am pretty sure you can graph fuel trims, I will have to double check, I know you can graph the injector pulsewidth with it. If you bought one, you could maybe make some money with it by charging your friends to scan and help fix their car and that would help with the price unless you have a better job than me

 

This is my first big DIY project and I'm starting to get my garage together to do this swap and I'm trying to make sure I have all the tools I need. I know air tools make things so much easier but is it possible to do this work without them? I guess I could rent some stuff if I really needed to. I want to avoid running all over town to get what I need. I will really only have weekends and would like to maximize my time to get this done so I can drive and enjoy it!

What heavy duty and/or specialty tools would I need at the minimum?

I have an engine hoist and stand but I've had a hard time finding bolts long enough to go through to them. I've tried NAPA and other parts stores, anybody know online places to order fasteners? I don't want to buy another stand...

A transmission jack will probably be the next thing I buy.

Any suggestions from swap vets is appreciated

 

Ace hardware has the bolts, yeah a tranny jack is almost a must (especially with a 3.0 auto tranny/transfer case combo), you can probably get by without air tools but they are nice too. I think somewhere in this thread I voted this the most useful tool:


As long as this is bumped to the top anyway here's an update on some of the tuning of the FTC.

I was running an A/F ratio of about 10 at WOT so that was the first place I've tried adjusting the FTC fuel map. This is in the highest boost area of the map (like 7-10 psi of boost) and the URD preloaded map had cell numbers at or very close to 10. After some playing around with lower numbers like 9.8, 9.7, 9.6, 9.5 and not getting much of any results towards a leaner mix I finally made a bigger jump to 8.9 and got the A/F ratio up to about 11 now at WOT (which according to Gadget is a great and safe number for a heavy truck like mine) although I'd like to try it closer to 12. The map now is at 9.9 @ 7 psi and steps down to 8.9 @ 9.5 psi.

The only place on the URD preloaded map that had cell numbers as low as 8.9 were in the very lowest pressure columns (8.8 actually). So it seems very strange to me that I'd have to lean the map out that much just to get to an A/F ratio of 11. What do you guys think? I'm wondering if the air flow through the stock 3.4 air box is limiting or starving the system of enough air to keep up with all the fuel this URD fuel kit is capable of dumping in. Should I try a deck plate mod to see if that leans it out some? Or is the fact I can even make 10 psi boost evidence that the air flow is there?

 

I think my FTC tuning attempts so far have made the truck run worse, I'm going to try putting Gadget's start-up map back in and start over. I was trying to take a short-cut and do it my way instead of the URD way but it seems Gadget knows best.

 

Cooling fan question: Which mechanical fan should you use on the new motor? In an article in 4WD toyota owner, they said that ORS recommends to use the 3.4 fan because the 3.0 fan is prone to problems. If I go this route, can I still use the 3.0 shroud to maximize the fan's efficiency? Has anybody done this?

 

I think you have to use the 3.0 fan but I haven't tried either one. The 3.4 radiator and shroud are bigger than the 3.0 and IIRC the 3.4 fan is bigger too. The 3.4 fan may not fit into the 3.0 shroud, especially if you have a body lift throwing the fan and shroud alignment off.

 

I think the 4WDTO article specifically mentioned the problem of the 3.0 as being the integrated fan shroud getting out of alignment.

I don't remember, but did you SAS you 93 Dale? Or is that a future plan? Just wondering how the 3.4L would work with a SAS?

 

Nope I'm still IFS and no plans right now to change that. If I start blowing up IFS parts that could change though.

 

Yay! This thread is still around

Hmm, well for the most part my "included" map was pretty far off too, and there really isn't anyplace I haven't messed with it on the fuel side anyway. It just takes persistence and repetition. Overall, it seemed to me that the open loop area is the easiest area to tune, it's in closed loop that tuning gets a little sticky. It sounds like you were getting somewhere bumping the map down to 8.9 in that one spot, so it would seem you are on the right track. As for intake mods, for the most part the supercharger will force air through as fast as it needs no matter what. But, it does sound really cool with the deckplate off on mine

Hmm, definitely follow the U-Tune guide, it made it quite simple IMO (good thing I mentioned saving the stock map it came with, huh...) This is my first attempt at tuning an engine in any way shape or form, so I figured I needed some help.

When are you cruizin' over to Santa Fe for a Tuning/Wheeling party? This Summer?

 

Hey thanks Brian. Since you're at fairly high elevation I'd expect your preloaded maps to be way off. Or are you doing some tuning in the lowlands too? What's the lowest number you put into your fuel map so far?


Yeah in the Summer

 

I've tried a little in the lower areas just because I get more pressure down there, but for the most parts it's all been high altitude stuff. On the plus side, the FTC1 uses an MAP sensor, so the tune you get is pretty much "altitude independent" in terms of atmospheric pressure. Temperature and gas changes will necessitate a re-tune this summer though, coming off of winter blend gas and not getting down to zero at night. I'll just save my map I have right now and call it "Winter Tune" and then I'll have a summer /low altitude tune.


Excellent! I'll have to hunt down a few cool trails for some scenic views and driving. I'll have to wait for some better tires for some real "wheeling" though, these Revo's are a little low on tread, and they aren't agressive enough for my tastes anyway. I'm looking at 285x75r16 Goodyear Wrangler MTR's Or maybe the Pro-Comp Xtreme Terrain Mud's. But, I'll have to get some black RockCrawlers to put them on, and for all that I need to save because I still have to get the VB too...

 

Yeah that's fine, my wife likes those best anyway.

Are you tuning by yourself or is someone helping you? Do you remember if you've gone much below 8.8 anywhere on the fuel map #s?

 

Dale I might be able to lend you some assistance in the next few weeks, we are diving into tuning mine here soon after the VB is done.