I have gatherd a pretty general redneck consensus that I can replace my rod bearings by dropping the oil pan and if the crank is'nt in to bad of shape it should be no prob. The knock is noticeable on startup and quickly fades to being barely noticeable with the hood open. Has anyone tried this fix or is it a foolish and temporary fix?

 

This sounds more like an exhaust leak than a rod knock. In my experience, rod knocking gets worse as the engine warms, whereas exhaust leaks take about 1 minute to quiet down. The 22R is also prone to collector leaks.

 

Yea you can do it by going thru the oil pan no problem.

 

Yeah, just had the exhaust buttoned up, soon as the oil gets flowin' it stops, or hushes should I say.

 

So it makes noise only for a few seconds after startup? Like how many? Hot start or cold?

 

It could be the chain slapping around

 

wrist pin or piston slap????? the motor in are 88 has been doing it for years

 

It's only loud for as long as it takes to get the oil circulating. I basically just wanted to know if anyone out there has changed the rod bearings through the oil pan successfully. Another thing I was interested in was the toyota repair manual mentions that the rods will be stamped either a, b, c, or d and that the corresponding bearings should be used. Parts guy at Roy Rodgers says that it doesn't matter and that he has sold a hundred standard size sets.

 

unless you go to toyota and pick out your bearings(heck, they might even sell total sets of the same), a rod bearing is a rod bearing when it comes to a 22R. mine were stamped with numbers and letters but i've had no ill effects of using a generic set.

same goes with the crank, but there's 3 unique sets of main bearings for the early 22R and late 22R(2 are for early, 1 for late). the order for those are stamped on the bottom of the block inside where the oilpan gasket goes.\

all the toyota genuine bearings i pulled out of my engine before rebuilding looked the same to me.

 

Ive been keeping up with this thread for a while and after some thought I may have an easy answer for you. The oil filter you are using doesnt have the anti-seep valve on it. Its just a flap that keeps the oil from draining out of the filter every time you shut off the engine. Genuine Toyota filters have them as do Purolator pure ones. I'm not sure what others have it. But, if it is only doing it until the oil gets up to pressure, then this MAY be the cause.

 

ah ha, this is true, the oil filter is not toyota, but I am afraid still that I have a bad bearing. I just bought this truck on ebay and other than the body it is in pretty rough shape. I have no maintenance records and the carfax shows the truck has been through quite a few owners. It looks as if the top end has had some work done to it recently(nice and shiny new parts), but the whole block is covered in oil as if possibly a bad valve cover gasket. It does not seem to be leaking any oil at all at the moment. I am planning on dropping the oil pan to check the condition of the rods. I have owned a 22r previously and I am very familliar with the infamous tick and generic oil filter problems. I have a toyota filter and will change the oil again just to see.