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Knock Sensor replacement 3vze

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Old 09-26-2015, 03:33 PM
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Knock Sensor replacement 3vze

Hey everyone, I have decided to replace my knock sensor (code 52). Has anyone had any luck pulling the lower intake without removing the cam pulleys and Belt?? I know that removing all that front stuff is normal protocol but just checking to see if anyone has "Cheated" the system.


Also, I have new injectors (and all of the front stuff like belt, water pump, pulleys and the like) and have already replaced the knock sensor when I replaced the long block. Is there anything else under there that I should replace while I have it apart like any of the fuel rail stuff or things like that??
Old 09-26-2015, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by moparbay
Hey everyone, I have decided to replace my knock sensor (code 52). Has anyone had any luck pulling the lower intake without removing the cam pulleys and Belt?? I know that removing all that front stuff is normal protocol but just checking to see if anyone has "Cheated" the system.


Also, I have new injectors (and all of the front stuff like belt, water pump, pulleys and the like) and have already replaced the knock sensor when I replaced the long block. Is there anything else under there that I should replace while I have it apart like any of the fuel rail stuff or things like that??
I don't believe you can replace the knock sensor without removing the timing belt.
Old 09-26-2015, 06:43 PM
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I believe the No 2 (upper) idler/water passage bolts to the lower intake manifold. You won't be able to remove it with the timing belt on.

On the other hand, you may be able to leave the cam pulleys (sprockets) on. Then you'd have to leave the No. 3 Timing Belt cover on, and I just don't know if that interferes with the manifold.
Old 09-27-2015, 11:29 AM
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You don't have to pull any timing related stuff. There is a good write up in the Tech Write-Up area of this site,
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...cement-233708/
But if you plan on doing your timing belt, might want to do it at the same time as the KS.
Old 09-27-2015, 01:09 PM
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"and you should be able to easily pull the idler pully out now. there are four bolts that hold it to the manifold. unscrew these and pull it back a little and it should come right out:"

The idler pulley chuntr is referring to IS part of the timing related stuff you need to pull. (Pretty nice write up, by the way.)

Don't forget that you MUST replace the crush washers on each fuel line you open. They are only available from the dealer, but they are cheaper than dirt. Plan ahead.
Old 10-06-2015, 09:24 AM
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Thanks guys, i ran across the write a couple of days ago and answers my question.

It sucks that I was being cheap and only replaced the KS harness when i replaced the long block. I can advise anyone that has to take the lower intake off to replace the KS harness and the KS itself unless you know 100% it is good. Also, i know it is expensive, but pay the extra $$ on a OEM KS. My dealer wanted $257 for the KS but i found an OEM KS on ebay for $158 shipped. I wouldn't waste money on any of the aftermarket sensors that can be had for under $20.

I replaced the KS and cleared the code 52 and light has been off since (although i only have about 10 miles on it)

Yesterday, I drove my truck to the store for the first time without the CEL coming on. Too early to tell if the CODE 52 issue has been fixed but it looks promising. It usually comes on before the end of the block.

Thanks again for the help, Let me put some miles on this thing and i will report back.
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