My head spinning I can't take anymore diagrams I just need you know what AM 1 and AM2 are and hear from somebody else's make sure I have this correct. How are they similar or different. The ignition, carburator and alternator wiring and then I'm done.
Although I will be doing a big 3 or something along those lines tourniquet off-grid but I can go ask a car audio and camper RV store for that information however if any of you know can I do that with a stock battery or do I have to have the AGM battery or something like that. I already have all the stuff that I need to upgrade it I don't know if any damage the battery by cooking something like that up.

I still don't know necessarily be relationship of voltage and amperage how one can go up the other goes down... My hurting brain tells me I can't use a stock battery.

 

AM1 and AM2 are what Toyota calls "fusible links", although I don't know why. Essentially, they're fuses, plain an simple.
Now, the wire from the alternator over to the battery, and the wire from the battery to the engine compartment fuse block are true fusible links. Wire designed to burn through at a specific amperage flow (which we'll get to in a second). They have thicker insulation, so that when the wire burns, or melts, through, the insulation will, hopefully, keep the wire from contacting anything while it's hot, and prevent a fire. Does that help with that?

Now, voltage, amperage, and resistance. They're all related through Ohm's Law. Think of electrical systems like a water system. Voltage is the water pressure, say in PSI, amperage is the amount of water flowing for a given time period. Say gallons per minute. Resistance is, well, resistance. How does the system resist the flow of water. Like say a valve, but only partly open. Or a smaller pipe than the rest, but only for a short distance. See?
Now, if something sucks on the water faster than the system's pressure can push the water through the system, the pressure (voltage) will drop, but the FLOW (amperage) will be higher. Say you have an electric stove. The battery can only provide so much pressure (voltage), but the stove's burners DRAW a lot of current during their operation. See, voltage down, current up.

For a quick rundown of Ohm's Law. Draw a T on a piece of paper. Put an E (voltage) on top of it, and an I (current), and an R (resistance) on either side of the vertical bar. This is how the three relate mathamatically. To solve for any one when you know the other two values, cover that symbol. If you want to find voltage, cover the E.You're left with I times R. To solve for R, you have E divided by I. Notice they are "inversely proportional". In other word, if E goes up, with R remaining constant, I goes down. If I goes up, E goes down. See how they relate, now?

Is all my rambling any help?
Pat☺

 

My head also spins trying to understand what you're trying to do.
Would you please CLEARLY re-state your problem and why you think stock battery would not work?
I have stock battery and truck yet they have taken me to more wild and beautiful places than overly-outfitted ones stuck at the office or mall parking.

 

It's pretty cool. I'm rewiring the entire truck I'm actually almost done but I'm also converting it into a camper. Just trying to make sure that I don't cause a thermonuclear explosion is all. ​​​​​​And thank you for saying that word draw I've been looking for that word for quite a long time to know exactly how to refer to it, I just never knew how so trying to ask these questions has been daunting. But as far as AM1 and AM2 my question is isn't doesn't one end up not supplying power any longer because the alternator takes over? If that's the case I need to make sure that I have initially set up to wire in all the stuff I'll have in the extended camper shell for living. I have a couple of two and a half foot gas struts and basically I'll be lifting the camper shell and adding a couple of panels that I'm going to build. And hopefully if I can Crystal weight maybe you can hire some how or at least figure out some way to make it a little bit bigger than that. It's going to have a good amount of electronics in it and I will be putting in a couple of deep cycle batteries to put on a rather intricate charging setup. So I have to get a DC DC car controller that will match the alternator output as the alternator is not going to be charging the starter battery, my two 6 volt house batteries will, and then the alternator after going through an external voltage regulator will charge the house batteries. One thing I haven't figure out about that is how to have like a warning system or something of some kind. I also don't have a confirmed answer as to whether or not to 6 volt wired in parallel would be okay to charge that way but the DC DC charge controller however with electricity I never just go for it. ​​​​​​Once I'm done this will be a self-sustaining Frankenstein. Cue applause... and any thoughts or opinions?

 

Wire the 2 6VDC batteries in series, not parallel. Voltage in series is additive, current is common, voltage in parallel is common, current is additive. Long winded way of saying, you can make a 12 VDC system out of 2 6 VDC batteries in series. Their voltages will add up. That way, you can charge them off the normal alternator without a special adaptor to adjust the voltage applied to them. If you have a piece of electronics that only requires 6 VDC, you can just pick the voltage off between the two batteries.
You'll still need a system to allow the alternator to only charge one battery at a time. I'm considering the two 6VDC batteries as as single 12 VDC battery for this part of the discussion. Like, for example, after you start the engine, the alternator will charge the battery used for the regular truck systems, like headlights, radio, ECU etc, then, once it's "full", it will automatically switch over and charge the 2, 6 VDC batteries, if needed. If the truck battery voltage drops, like running the headlights, it will switch back, until the battery is "full" again.

Saves needing a special adaptor to run 2, 6 VDC batteries in a 12 VDC truck.

It's not that the alternator "takes over", so to speak. Since the alternator has a sensor wire on it to read what the voltage on the battery is, it determines the voltage to apply to the battery, and thence into the truck's electrical system. If the battery voltage drops, the alternator puts out more voltage to the battery to charge it back up. Like after a start. The starter draws (there's the secret word again! ) a pretty fair amount of power from the battery during a start. So, after a start, the battery's voltage will be below the predetermined value. The alternator's output will rise to compensate, so the truck's systems will have the proper voltage, AND the battery will charge up. Once it's "full", the alternator voltage drops, still providing the truck's systems the proper voltage and current they need, but the battery is charged up.

Does that help?
Pat☺

 

I have a 92 toyota pick up 22 re and the alternator caught fire, probably because of a powersteering leak right above. The fire was isolated to the alternator and wiring harness. I changed out the alternator from a sort of straight three terminal connector to a ring type using a harness and alt that I purchased online. The new harness has a blue green, and red wire and the stock wiring on the truck is red, white, and yellow. Because of the fire I am not sure which color matches with the new harness colors. I know which wire charges the battery but I am unsure which stock wire goes to the S, L, or IG. Also, I have seen some diagrams online that illustrates which terminal is S, L, and IG but on the alt but I dont know which color wire from the truck connects where. I am very confused at this point! I could use the help...more than enough detail would be appreciated.

 

The alt and it's wires...

Just to show where line B from the previous picture goes...

Do those help at all?
Pat☺

 

This is just a still frame from the link I'm including. While the whole video is really cool it's option or 3 that I'm aiming for eventually getting around to because it's expensive. But then another video there's a smart alternator that he speaks about and I don't know something like that existed for a truck this old I know there's more powerful alternators but I've never been able to find a smart alternator
https://youtu.be/TAEzCcayI0gSo that right there is the link to the video with the picture I used. But here you can have unfettered access to the mind of a borderline personality with no memory and just see the kind of chaos that I have here. A good amount of money went to things that I can't use it until later like that way to extend and raise up the camper shell two things like wanting a really really cool silver paint job in screwing up a few times apparently I pick the hardest color there it is but I wanted to honor Paul Walker even though it's a truck also as ˟˟˟˟ for now at least. But I do plan on getting that 20R cylinder head on there that I've read a lot about but that's in third place as far as priority I think the biggest route problem that I'm having is just a few simple concepts that I don't quite get and it's the most basic fundamentals which if I knew those I could probably extrapolate the rest of what I need because I'm actually pretty damn good extrapolating information just by headlines only I need to know the thundamentals first so he was probably one of the dumbest questions you'll ever get I'm getting off on a slight tangent here, so if the alternator "takes over"does that mean that the closed circuits open up as soon as the alternator starts producing electricity in which case I must ask a huge piece of the puzzle with that so now doing hieroglyphics, lol. Now mind you full time I've been literally in a work environment that has been two or even three times as messy as this this leaving me looking for any given part or tool more than I actually spend time using it. And also beating myself up for not realizing that I threw away one of the characters that I needed to keep instead of a different one but this granite here with a going through the engine that's more resistance than If the alternator was just wired directly to the battery post correct, is it for your pictures at I hope you understand what's going on her2

 

Ok, I don't quite understand the question, there. What "closed circuits" do you mean? By "closed" do you mean activated, or not activated? I understand "closed switches", or "closed relays", but I'm not real sure about "closed circuit".

Essentially, once the engine starts, and the alternator is happily producing electricity, the truck is running off the alternator, not the battery. Power for all circuits, save one, comes directly from the alternator. The one exception is the power to energize the alternator's field coils. That come straight from the battery. It's what allows the alternator to "make" electricity out of the rotations it's making.

The power runs from the alternator over to the fuse block on the heavy LOOKING white wire bolted onto the side of the alternator. That's a "fusible link", so if there's too much current draw across it, it burns open, internally to the thick, white insulation. Acts as a fuse, without permitting a fire caused by the wire burning open. That's the point behind the thicker insulation.

Anywho, a little clarification would be of great help to us here, if you can please.
​​​​​​​Pat☺

 

Just bought the truck and the field mice had a feast on the alternator harness under the air intake. Need a new one and am having trouble finding any for sale. Anyone have a good source to find a new alternator harness for sale? Thanks

 

If you could not find harness, just rewire. Pretty simple wiring. I have post "How Charging System Works".
Merry Christmas!

 

AWSOME analogy,

 

any idea how to remove these connectors? Trying to forgo messing them up since I’m having trouble finding any of these parts.

 

The fact that i was not even close to qualified to do this. But ive come a long way. Amazingly its one simple part I cant follow. Turns out the lil piece between lock cylinder and ignition switch broke. I was gonna wire a whole new system. While trying to design it, avalanche of a ˟˟˟˟storm hit gods industrial size fan. Im skipping the ECM for now. That said, i just wanna get it started for a few moments. Batter to starter i get, its grounded. Ignition coil to distributor, two wires, got it. Grounded same way. But how to I get my ignition switch wored to the coil, it seems to me the switch, the coil and alternator have a menage trois sharing power. If I'm skipping the ECM does that mean the starter that would normally be wired there first or last whatever goes directly to where the ignition coil is wider I don't think I'm making sense actually that sounds wrong in my head. How do I start the damn truck without an ECM, I think I might have to replace that. Pretend I have no harness cuz I don't. This is all custom. Although I did keep all the connectors (i thought) my fusible links are gone. So tell your ideas at me now that I actually kind of know how much of a ˟˟˟˟ storm i created and I understand it a whole lot better I might be able to understand you guys better. Battery starter solenoid alternator ignition coil/module and switch go. 250 amp ignition relay available I am going to be living in this. And I'll review all the answers.

 

This almost answers my question I just need to know how the ignition switch and the ignition coil and module interact with the rest of it