battery light and brake light on

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Mar 2, 2021 | 02:37 AM

#41

Jordan6

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2021

Posts: 11

Likes: 1

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner

No tear on the insulation of the wire does not necessarily mean that the metal wires inside are not broken or corroded.

Not any corrosion where? All connectors? All points where "S", "IG", and "B" wires connect to switches, fuses, and battery?
Why did you replace the alternator in the first place?
Before you replaced the first alternator did you do voltage checks I described above?
What made you judge the original alternator as bad?
After you installed latest alternator did you do voltage checks I described above?
On the current system did you do voltage checks I described above?
Until you do and thoroughly tell us what you see, hear, feel, smell about your system right in front of you, we who are miles away could not help much.

ok i will try and do the checks today when i get home from work

Mar 2, 2021 | 08:00 AM

#42

akwheeler

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2016

Posts: 1,583

Likes: 291

From: Alaska

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan6

battery checked fine last time i changed it and i got the alternator from slack auto parts. It was rebuilt. I also always have to grind down the top part of the alternator for it to fit in the bracket in the truck. Not much maybe an 1/8 of an inch or 3/16

I have never heard of slack auto parts, but it sure isn't a good sign if you have to grind on stuff to make it fit.
Also, if the shavings from you grinding on it are falling into it you may be the cause of your issues.
I would really like to hear that you had the ALTERNATOR checked by said parts store or at least tell us the battery voltage reading (with a multi-meter) when the engine is running at idle.
When you replace an alternator you should put a meter on it to see what the output is. Don't trust your dash gauge (if you even have one). Normally you will see over 14 volts when the engine is running.
Anything over 12.8 or so will be charging the battery, but not enough to keep up with any load until you are upwards of 13.5.
Help us help you, like RAD said, we aren't there, so give us some hard data and the full story to work with.
Do you have a $1000 stereo in a $500 truck? 42 extra light bars? Keep in mind most of the Toyota alternators are like 60 amp.

Mar 2, 2021 | 10:23 PM

#43

RAD4Runner

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2012

Posts: 7,125

Likes: 681

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan6

Quote:

Originally Posted by akwheeler

... isn't a good sign if you have to grind on stuff to make it fit.
... shavings from you grinding ....

YUP^^^
Normal Alt Output at stud terminal ("B" pin) of alt ranges from 13.5 to 15.1V depending on temperature (of alt, I think). Test points are described on my link^^^.
The fit may have something to do with some bushing on alt mounting hole that may have to be pushed deeper into the casting. @Jordan6 , you're gonna have to search some more on this site about that.
Use "google option. "post" and "thread" options are lame and will give you useless results.
In the future, try NAPA rebuilt alt. I got rebuilt Denso for mine.