ICR

RAD4Runner

Good that you fixed your problem, but what was really broken? You mean "battery and terminals, alternator, and the fuse for the alternator the 80 amp" were all broken at the same time?
So if problem happens you would do same? Replace " battery and terminals, alternator, and the fuse for the alternator the 80 amp "?

ICR

akwheeler

It was probably your battery all along, I can't count how many times I have seen batteries freeze up here (Alaska) because someone left their lights on and killed it in cold weather ( a dead battery will freeze at temperatures where a charged one won't). When that happens the sides get pushed out quite a bit and they won't hold a charge ever again. I don't know what your weather is like in the winter, but that sure sounds like what happened. Since you haven't given us any time frame regarding how long this has been an issue I am just guessing it happened last winter. As a rule of thumb, if you suspect your alternator check your battery first, and if you suspect your battery check your alternator and starter first.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Trust me I know all about frozen batteries .

That is why I seem to replace them every year .

Also why I never had a battery replaced under warranty

Boyd N Julie

Hi, I own a 94 Hilux 22r, I know this is an old thread and it might sound silly but if your brake light is on on your dash you should first check your brake fluid level before pulling anything to bits.

RAD4Runner

IF only the brake light is on, you are correct.
However, if both.charge and brake lights are on, it is surely a problem with charging system. Once you fix the charging systen issue and brake light is still on, continue troubleshooting.

Claytonlane

Hey guys I’ve been relying on y’all through out my whole rebuild and now I’m stumped I have an 88 pickup with a 22r it over heated warped the head so working at a wrecking yard I jumped on a 22re from a 92 supposed to be a core motor had brand “newish head”so I shoved it in after giving it a pretty good look through I suspected it had other problems or like most cars we get it it didn’t fire up and run right off the bat or had high miles motor ended up running like a charm but the brake light and charge light came on the moment I got it running the thing about it is though I had it 180* out the day I tried to fire it up not ever crossing my mind that it could be that because I put a web r carb and electric fuel pump deleting all the egr as well I thought I just didn’t have everything set up right I’m still young rookie mistake so my wife cranked on it while I made adjustments after finding out what I did and filling pretty dumb we (I say we to make myself feel better)had Burn the battery cables and now I’m trying to find my ground in the starting/ charging system but I am at a loss the only ground that I can find is to the starter Relay a white wire with a black stripe can anyone tell me what it goes through or to

Claytonlane

Sorry for trashing the thread

RAD4Runner

Nice work, but please start a BUILD thread, not fill this thread with your build pics.

Claytonlane

if you notice above I have a problem with the charging system and could use help

akwheeler

Have you put a meter on the battery to see what voltage you have? It would be helpful to know both running and not running battery voltage, not what you see on the dash volt meter (if you have one).
Check all of your fuses/fusible links.

Jordan6

I have a 1991 pickup. I have put about 4 alternators in the truck within a year and they only last about a couple of months and then my brake and battery light come back on.
does anybody know what could be causing this?

akwheeler

Are you having them tested and they are bad?
several things immediately come to my mind
#1 I need a drink
#2 cheap dime store alternator
#3 three weeks in the oil patch is too long, I need a few drinks.
#4 dime store battery
#5 bad grounds

Jordan6

i have on the past ones not this one yet and it usually shows around 11 something or 12 volts

Jordan6

battery checked fine last time i changed it and i got the alternator from slack auto parts. It was rebuilt. I also always have to grind down the top part of the alternator for it to fit in the bracket in the truck. Not much maybe an 1/8 of an inch or 3/16

RAD4Runner

How fine is fine? What are your criteria for "fine? Who declared the battery "fine"? Do you trust them? Did you verify?
How charging system works here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/
Pls let us know what's different between how I describe it above with how your system is. That's the problem.

Jordan6

there is not any corrosion and i can’t see any lose wires or tears in the wire and an auto parts store ran a check on the battery

Jordan6

if it was wiring as well why would it take over a month for that to show up

RAD4Runner

No tear on the insulation of the wire does not necessarily mean that the metal wires inside are not broken or corroded.
Not any corrosion where? All connectors? All points where "S", "IG", and "B" wires connect to switches, fuses, and battery?
Why did you replace the alternator in the first place?
Before you replaced the first alternator did you do voltage checks I described above?
What made you judge the original alternator as bad?
After you installed latest alternator did you do voltage checks I described above?
On the current system did you do voltage checks I described above?
Until you do and thoroughly tell us what you see, hear, feel, smell about your system right in front of you, we who are miles away could not help much.