motor and tranny are awesome for 190k

 

I'm glad not much is borken. On another note what's broken?

Just kidding. That's what's great about toyota. Keep up the good maintenance.

 

The front suspension travel is broken in my 88 4Runner. I've been told that the condition is called IFS. I'm hoping to buy some parts to fix it soon.

 

right yeah sorry should of said umm my sunroof does not open and my ebrake is frozen but thats about it thanks!

 

lets see
coolant leak from somewhere behind the engine block(no clue just started today)
had to replace differential
very slow differential leak(easy fix)
breaks have pressure the dont
rust spots bed has a big hole in it
no a/c belt
tailgate handle doesnt work
back window latch broke

other then that it ran great have to figure out the coolant leak before i drive it again

 

Front Bumper
Sport Hood
Grille
A/C condenser
Radiator

 

Anyone else have the the vacuum valve on the pwr steering pump lose the piece in the center of the threaded part?

 

Mine is a "WTH ISSSSSSSSS THATTTTTTTTTT?" type of broken thing.... So, while I can say SOMETHING is either 'broken' or 'unhappy', .... I can't say what it is. lol.....

Starts up beautifully, cold... Idles up to 1200rpm until warmed up, where it sits at 750rpm and idles pretty smooth and quiet.... THEN, ..... I'll run around town, ..... (it has to be at full operating temp for this ''THING'' to happen, apparently, lol)...... Then I kill the motor, come back in 20 minutes, and while STILL WARM only, it seems..... it idles down and runs REALLY chunky...seeming like it wants to die. If I get on the gas and then take off... it's a lil hesitation-proned for JUST a few seconds.. then it snaps right out of "IT", whatever "IT" is, lol. IF, however, I start it on hot restart and wait, ...it takes at least a minute or two to snap out of it if I don't intervene at all.

IACV is NEW

TPS is NEW

O2 is NEW

Thermo Temp Time Switch(on top of Thermostat Housing) NEW

Coolant Temp Sensor is NEW

Cold start injector time switch, not so new, lol

Injectors, all 5, serviced by RC and given an "excellent" rating

Fuel Pump, 12K miles

Fuel Filter, 12K miles

EGR, Orig. (but Modulator is new), BVSV also original

All vacuum ports clean as a whistle/as is Throttle Body

All parts mentioned above are OEM, ....

****************************************

Starting to suspect either a Bubble in the Coolant(I have a heater core hose that's needing replacement... It's got a TINY compromise... But, that doesn't seem to lose any in the system? ).....

Or, .... Something related to TPS or AFM that's been unhappy since mudding and giving my engine a bath, thanks to the 32 MT's, lol.

DAYUMMMMMMMMMM I hate gremlins!

*********************************************

OH, and my brand new lighting system in the back is flickering when I open the tailgate, sometimes not wanting to come on until I tamper with the latch just right hahaha.... So, gonna dig back in there and maybe slap in some new to me latches... see if it's a ground thing related to the diode I added... Or maybe the door lock detection switch taking a dump on me? lol... Yuck! lol

 

rust, rust, and more rust
tailgate window doesn't go down(fixing today)
rear brakes leak
alignment
leak at the rear of my engine
power antenna doesn't move
spark plugs and wires(have replacements)
need new tires
CD player intermittent
tailgate doesn't latch on the passenger side
tailgate doesn't unlatch easily on drivers side
everything else is cherry

 

Chef, you're about 100 times better at diagnosing than am I but have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? Mine use to idle terribly at start. I replaced it and it idles great now. Just a thought, very easy to check as well.

 

-oil leak from somewhere
-Rough idle & missing
-Clutch slipping (fixing soon)
-No A/C Compressor
Other than this i love it.

 

Oh
- Carb with way to much vacuum lines
- Stubborn truck to lower cant find any wheels to fit that have the right offset.

 

Haha, thanks man.... Not sure about "better", ... just HATE LOSING TO GREMLINS! lol.

Yep, I've tested it, ... and the FPR-VSV(bypassed both, into the plenum.... Still idled down)...

I'll try my spare FPR I got from a 89K mile wreck..... It was running, PURRING actually, but smashed in the rear(in a salvage yard I use, www.japanesetruckdismantlers.com ..... VERY good guys!.....to me anyhow, haha)... While I'm changing in my new OEM Fuel Filter, ....might as well, on top of that, clean the lines all out and maybe do all new fuel lines.... WORTH EVERY PENNY after 25 years, I'm guessing? Not FREE, lol... But not a "LUXURY" type purchase, either, right?

HAPPY NEW YEARS, YOTATECH!

 

Might have an issue with a CV on the pass. side, as well... The rebuilds went extremely well... But while I thought my rubbing sound from the pass. side was related to the 32's.... It is still happening, however less, with the 31's on(which clear REALLY well and it's happening at BARELY ANY turn on inclines, etc.)...

Could be something else... It's just hard to investigate without someone walking alongside and listening, etc. I'll try the droop/full turn tests, etc..... But couldn't find anything after install, and they wheeled extremely well, pretty hard, without any drama. So, ....... I just don't know what it is... Sounds like a tire rubbing on the fender skirt/shield or pinch welds... I'll try to secure it like I planned and maybe hammer the welds and see what I get?

 

-Windshield cracked
-Leak from back of engine
-Speedo/Odo in-op
-Coolant Temp Gauge needle barely moves
-Pops of gear on deceleration in 4th (I hate that)

 

-Windshield cracked
-Leak from back of engine
-Speedo/Odo in-op
-Coolant Temp Gauge needle barely moves
-Pops of gear on deceleration in 4th (I hate that)

 

Hey Maroon, .... just wanted to share....

*First, the windshield... These guys I used in CA are GREAT! They did it more reasonably than any place I'd found... Came within 24 Hours, and installed it for 165$ lol.... They use USA Glass, too. BUT, I have to find it in my receipts. My seal was leaking down into my COR and ECU...... DESTROYED my COR... ECU was ok but headed the same way. If it was more exposed, like the COR was, it would have happened. Mine was cracked, too... and I got a warning ticket for COUPLE HUNDRED$ hahaha.... So I had to fix it within a time. Then they dropped the ticket.

* When I had this issue with popping out of 4th gear on high rpm downhill coasting, etc. ..... It was happening because I had an incident where the gear oil got REALLY low one time, due to a sudden leak, and then, when refilling it... the output shaft trans seal was leaking into the t-case(I know, you don't have one, just hold on for me, k? lol)...... that What I mean is... it was literally draining oil from the very rear of the trans... A 2WD is probably less likely to have this issue.. BUT, what I KNOW happened to me is that....When I opened up the front seal/bearing retainer on the front of the trans.... the thing had the input shaft seal in BACKWARD and the bearing retainer/seal cover was COVERED in RTV, like the guy took it off more than once after installing that seal backward... then coated it in RTV to "HELP" lol... And couldn't figure out why it was leaking? haha.

Anyway, After replacing that seal with OEM/removing all the RTV, new retainer housing gasket, then fully flushing and refilling the W56, ...... The problem changed from "wont stay in gear on deceleration" to "Hard to get into 4th a bit when using the clutch... But GLIDES RIGHT IN on a dry shift, no clutch and NEVER EVER pops out anymore."

Pretty much... If I had to guess???? Your 4th Gear related Synchromesh is GONE. It's a bronze(?) 'guider' between the gears... and they just wear out. But hey, I figure, "I have 280K on this thing.... It's purring, .... the trans is original ... yet still it shifts smooth into every gear but 4th? ...Meh, I'll dry shift it! lol..." Actually, I can dry shift this truck through EVERY gear, at the right RPM and speed/transitioning from one gear to the next. LIL harder on the downshift...BUT, for 4th, I usually just slow a bit, go to third and then dry shift back into 4th, lol. I know, "get another trans!!!", right? haha.... Well, trying to save money is just that.... and "ONE DAY"..... It's just such a hopeful thing to look forward to, ya know? I mean, what will I do when that's gone? lol.

guessing you checked the fluid lately, right?

 

Thanks Chef,

I actually did have leaking from the tail section onto the rear mount for the trans and also some onto the driveshaft. I ended up replacing that trans in October of 2010 because it popped out of 2nd and 4th all the time and was hard to get into those gears also. So we did the clutch since we were doing the trans. It was like $700 I think for a rebuilt trans and it would pop out of 4th gear on deceleration the first day I drove it with the new to me trans. I was like WTF bro!!!! A yota guy at work just told me last week to try driving it without the shift boot on and it stopped the problem. So, cuz my truck has a body lift (I wish it didn't) and I guess the angle the shifter is supposed to go into the floorboard is closer to the 2,4 and R section of the hole in the floorboard, it is putting the boot is under pressure or something, and the vibrations and bumps want to knock it out of gear I'm gonna try to find one of those leather boots that tie around the shifter, not the accordion rubber style cuz it won't hold pressure on it, that or a different angle shifter. But the ideal thing would be to get rid of the blocks on the frame (body lift) and do 4.5" suspension raise instead of the 3" raise I have. Truck came with 3" body and 3" suspension lift. But yeah this trans only has like 25K on it and the synchros are getting worn out cuz the freakin boot so that has to get fixed so I don't spend another $700 soon. I just don't use the downshift to slow down for now; I brake until I can go down to 3rd or rev up, shift into 4th and slow down or speed up to 5th. I'm used to it now, it'll work for now and not cost me money.

Oh and yes I check the fluid. I changed it like a year ago cuz the rebuild guys for the trans told me to use a synthetic gear oil in it, then the fluid actually bubbled up and churned itself and turned white in color and would seap out onto the rear mount and driveshaft like I was saying. I left a white 2" puddle on my buddies driveway and thats how i found that out. But it was white and I was like wtf? Flushed it with some cheap gear oil and drained it after driving for a week with it then put some name brand gear oil and check it every 6 months.

Thanks a lot for the reply I appreciate it. I'll let you know what happens. I'm shopping for a boot for the short term fix and I would like to get rid of the body lift to fix that angle. Anyone know how easy/difficult it is to remove a body lift kit?

 

So the idler pulley on my '93 pickup failed and I can't seem to find a replacement. Here is the one I bought next to the original, they're clearly different sizes. Will the new one still work?

 

um... It doesn't look like it considering that the bearings look like a different size but in reality what engine is it for and what does it do? The new one looks like the idler pulley for the air con on a 3vze. The old one looks more like the idler pulley for the power steering on a 22re but I could be very wrong.