gw,

are you talking about subwoofer foam? or the spray kind that expands? do you have a pic of the rear cargo area w/ the poly foam?

my guest who we took to pismo said "man, its so damn quiet back here compared to my dad's 97" few minutes later, the boy just flat out passed out!

bob

 

I used "Great Stuff" polyurethane foam. It expands as it comes into contact with moisture in the air. If you use it, use a little at a time, It expands with such force that it's said to have buckled panels.

Now that all my panels are back in, I'm not pleased. But I believe that a lot of my noise is now coming in the tailgate. So that's my next project. But I may order some sound deadening "paint" for it.

 

Why not?

 

No prob Bob

I still havnt done mine. All that PnS is sitting in my garage, been too hot out here!!!

 

Eric,

If you need carpet padding, I got a ton of it. I can bring it to my work in El Monte and then we can meet up and do the transfer.

Bob

 

Hi all, this last weekend I was so inspired by this post that I went ahead and braved the 93 degree heat and began taking out the headliner of my 97 4runner limited. The weekend before I tried this but could not figure out how to take the rear dome light off. Well, I breezed through that portion of the removal process and was on my way thanks to this thread. I ended up breaking every one of those circular fasteners when removing that damn headliner(had to put serious muscle into it). I did not feel the need to remove the entire liner, just up to where the moon roof starts (mainly because I could not loosen the screws on the driver's side brace handle or whatever you call it). I used Dynamat Xtreme (36sq ft bulk pack: ebay $96) to cover the roof and layed it directly over the foam stuff near the back. I was quite pleased with the sound (or lack of sound) after the Dynamat was laid. The main reason for this project was that I was getting rattles from the cargo area, but the rattles did not go away... It turns out that my sub box is rattling, something is loose in there, but it is on it's way out. I have 2 new 12" Adire Brahmas going in after I install a new 200amp H O alt and Optima yellowtop. Well, here are a few photos of the project:

 

IMHO - You probably won't gain much from adding acoustic mat insulation around the sunroof on top of the headliner. The configuration of the bracing and the sunroof bracing appears to pretty much eliminate a lot of the noise harmonics above your head.

Based on my research on this and knowledge of architectural acoustics the small areas make a small difference. I attached a photo illustrating this concept used on my doors. The little gaps don't appreciably affect the performance.

The primary benefit comes from three areas:

1. door and side panels
2. roof (important in a SUV - even for heating and cooling)
3. floor boards

Just find a way to kill all that bad sound energy and world will be wonderful once again...

I'm out.

Rich

 

Here's a place you can order bulk Peel&Seal from and in different widths, which is better than Lowe's 6" only width, and at about the same prices:

http://www.rwc.org/u/web/rwcorg/cgi-local/catalog.cgi

and also Peel&Seal's homepage with instructions on how to apply it:

http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/index.htm

 

The reason I'm not pleased is because I don't notice any difference in road noise coming from the back. But I believe that most of it is now coming from the rear tailgate. I'm going to pull the panels and do something to it...soundproofing paint, P&S or something.

 

DONE!!!!!!!!!!

I decided to roll the last part into the original write up. This didn't take as long as the rest of the vehicle for two reasons:

1) Door panels are easy to remove
2) Peel-N-Seal is the BEST material to work with. Very pliable, easy to cut, etc.



I'd recommend using PNS for this entire project. Granted, the HTM is a very good, thick material for the floor and the roof, but if you don't have the patience of a 4th grade teacher, use PNS for this project.

The doors:
http://www.4runners.org/articles/sound/deaddoor.html

The entire write up:
http://www.4runners.org/articles/sound

Bob

 

haha, I gotta laugh bob. I read your door write-up and thought it was cool you discovered that same "technique" that I used to lay the PnS behind the wires on the rear sidewalls. pull about an inch of the backing and slide down behind the wires and then pull the backing off and press it down. cool.

and as alway's heck of a write-up.

 

Just thought i'd bring this thread back from the dead. Out of the many people here that have tried the PNS on their interior's of their trucks, how did you install it? Did you cover every square inch that you possibly could? did you leave gaps? did anyone just use PNS and no carpet pad?... I Am trying to put some PNS in my 84 Tercel Wagon, and got most of the floor covered, but i have about 1 inch gaps between the material. Do i need to fill these gaps in to get the best effect? also is adding the carpet pad that big of an improvement? I don't have any currently, but should in a few months, but really don't want to wait.

Steve

 

steve,

id definitely put carpet padding on the floor board. and no, i didnt put material on every square inch. some places you just couldnt do that.

the doors make a huge difference re PNS, but putting carpet is not an option there. i have enough material to do another layer of PNS on the doors. i may do that one of these days, but other mods are ahead of it.

bob

 

Yeah, at freeway speeds, this little car is so loud that you can't really hear the person sitting next to you. When i removed the carpet in the back, there was nothing in terms of sound deadening material. I've covered quite a bit of it now, and went back to lowes to get somemore PNS to do the rest of it. I'm planning on doing the doors too, but I want to get the whole floor first, and remove the stock padding on the roof (and put PNS + padding up there).

Thanks a bunch for your writeup, it helped quite a bit.
OH BTW I ended up getting those damn roof plugs out without breaking them, I have a set of craftsman precision needle nose pliers that are about 3.5 inches long and pretty thin. They slid right under those plugs. I had to try a few different angles to squeeze the clips in, but they came out no problem.

Steve

 

>>"the doors make a huge difference re PNS,"<<

If you seal off your doors, like this >>Click Here<<, you'll get even better results. My passenger door looks just like the one in that link, except I covered EVERY hole, leaving no gaps anywhere. Boy, let me tell you, the difference is night and day!

 

This helps with your audio system, too, as it creates more of a sealed enclosure for the speakers in your doors (not sure if it matters with a stock audio system, though )

 

Is that PNS everywhere in the pic?

Thanks

 

^^
It's eDead V.1.SE, which looks quite similiar to Peel 'n Seal..