Ya'll might want to look at http://fatmat.com/ I know some people that have used it and found it as good as if not better then Dynomat extreme... pretty cheep to.

 

Can you do us all a favor too, post the part numbers for the plastic fasteners here once you get them? thanks.

 

keisur: cool new avitar

anyone tried that fatmat stuff? sounds like a good deal

 

For those in the San Garbiel Valley, I found the peel n seal at Lowes in Pico Rivera . At that particular one, it is located way in the back between isle 49 and 50, it has its own display back. it is 13.00...... going to try and instal tomorrow since its already late today....

 

I installed the Peel and Seal today and what a difference. The rig is a lot quieter. I wasn't able to remove the sides and roof because they are a pain in the a$$! I just did cargo floor and the rear doors since I already installed Dynamat extreme on the front doors. I used 3 rolls on the the rear doors and cargo floor area. It's a lot cheaper than Dynamat. I might go to Lowe's again and finish up the rest of the floor. Here are some pics.












George

 

Guys,

Sorry, been outta the loop on this thread for a few days. I'm gonna try to answer the quesitons from memory:

albalgatas:
McMasters HiTemp Mastic- doesnt smell as bad as everyone said it did. When I got it, i took a good whiff and it smells like asphalt. But no one including my wife noticed the smell. It could be that there is carpet padding on it in addition to the existing carpet too, but nevertheless, the smell is not bad at all.

i installed this last weekend. in my garage it mustve been a good 110 degrees. that week, it was +90 degrees the whole week. again, the smell was not noticeable. i wouldnt worry about it.

as far as the carpet padding, the guy behind my alley owns a carpet store. i asked him to save me some remnants and he did. occassionally, contractors who buy carpet from him usually dump old carpet padding in their dumpster too. if you lived in LA, id save you some but alas, you dont.

socaleric:
the stuff I bought was this:



Polymeric Mastic 9709T19

george16:
The fasteners I busted (2 of them) were the headliner fasteners. they are located right above the rear cargo section. these are a PITA to get off. Keisur used a tool that had a forked end but he took the pic down (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...light=mcmaster). i removed mine w/ a similar tool and you will have to too.

i ordered those fasteners (6, just in case i ever remove them again) from partznet.com (PN rocks!). dont worry about the part numbers---just say the "headliner fasteners above the rear cargo area" and they'll find it. there are no fasteners like it in your 4runner.

bumpin yota: grasshoppa (me) has learned well from you (master). thanks for the great advice in the two previous threads and PMs.

So guys, which one of you chaps used the peel n seal this weekend? i'm very curious to see how it turned out and how malleable it is. post pics as always.

bob

 

George,

Haha, we must've posted at the same time.

Looks great! The Peel N Seal looks thin. How thin is it exactly in inches or mm's?

I think I might've made a good decision by accident. It looks like the HTM is thicker. That is good for the floorboard and the roof but not for the side panels which Peel N Seel would be better IMHO. I'm definitely going to buy some of this stuff next week and apply it on the door panels and possibly the side panels in the rear cargo area.

George: how many rolls do you estimate for each door including the rear tailgate?

Also, I wouldn't advise doing any of the side pillars. Its not worth the effort for such minimal coverage.

For those of you getting ready to do this, I'll have a write up by tomorrow night. However, it won't cover the doors, just the floor and the roof. The doors will come next week.

Bob

 

just got back from lowes, picked me up two more rolls. I'll do the rear floor boards tomorrow and maybe the rear sides. depends what time I get done running new battery cable, just got a Blue Top so I decided to go ahead and just replace the battery cable rather than lengthen the existing. I may be taking the starter out too since I think I turned one of the contacts because the nut was frozen when I went to turn it the stud turned instead and then the nut broke free, oops. more fun i guess.

 

Bob,
I used one roll for the rear doors and still have some left. All in all about 2 1/2 rolls for the rear doors and cargo area. I didn't do the tailgate. I opened it up but decided not to put any in there. I might do it tomorrow though ( not sure yet).
I think they are about 1 mil thick. I'm not so sure about it but I can check Lowe's tomorrow since I'm going to buy two more rolls for the floor under the seats. For sure, it's thinner than Dynamat Extreme which I've used for the front doors. But it's also a lot cheaper and easier to install (more pliable). It doesn't stink either.
Thanks a lot for the info on the fasteners. Anyway, how did you remove the cargo light fixture? I had a hard time removing it and since I don't have a lot of patience, I pretty much decided not to remove the headliner.

George

 

George,

Thanks for the info re amount of PNS to buy.

Not sure what you mean by "cargo light fixture" but I'm assuming you mean one (or both) dome lights.

The dome lights are easy. Take a flat bladed screwdriver, wrap them in masking tape (or something soft), wedge it in b/n the light cover and dome light assembly and pry out. This applies to both dome lights.

You'll see some Phil-head screws. Of course, remove them and they'll drop out with a few shakes and wiggles.

Removing the headliner would be best done w/ a 2nd set of hands. I had to pull some ninja moves and Chinese acrobatic poses to remove, hold and slide out the headliner. So unless you've trained at the same Shaolin temple like I have, your best bet is to bribe a friend over tomorrow w/ a 6 pack.

Bob

 

Bob,
Thanks a lot for the info re on the light fixture (dome lights). Somehow I can't think of the right word when I was typing last night. Probably because I was tired walking around Seaworld Orlando with my wife and 3 1/2 year old son.
I think I'll just do the headliner when my younger brother takes his vacation here in Florida in a couple of weeks. As of now, I'll just finish up the floor.
Keisur: I' was also a member of the Wu Tang Clan

George

 

Guys,

I've finished the first half of the first half of this write up (it'll make sense to you when you read it).

the first part of this write up deals with removing the entire floorboard area of your 4runner. the second part of this write up (not finished---family stuff going on today) is removing the side body panels and the headliner. I'll finish that later tonite.

http://www.4runners.org/articles/sound

Also, there's a link to a picture page with close ups of the floorboard removed. Its near the end of the article.

Dialup guys: you're screwed. Pic-intensive.

Bob

 

Sorry guys to write again, but Part 1 is composed of 3 parts: Floorboard, headliner, and then the actual sound deadening write up. I'm done with all but the sound deadening part as of 3:50 pm PST.

Check it out: http://www.4runners.org/articles/sound

Bob

 

Wow, I don't know what is more impressive-- the huge undertaking of soundproofing or the excellent, detailed description of the whole process!

You're going to have Lexus levels of silence in that thing!

 

I must say bob, you sure do know how to do a write-up. now if I can just get the parts for my laser print in, I can repair it and print it out for a hard copy. hehe.

 

Nice write up as usual Bob! I need to add this mod to my list of must do's. Looking forward to the rest of the write up.

 

here's a question for you Bob, What in sam-hill is a "Diversity Antenna?" I thought that was the defogger for the passenger rear quarter glass.

 

Toyota factory radios came with that. My old 2nd Gen too. It's supposed to improve reception. If you use an aftermarket radio, it won't have the hook up to use the diversity antenna. My Alpine works fine without it...

 

AH HA!! so that explains the puzzled look on my face while installing my kenwood headunit and that extra wire was there. It also explains why that window never defrosted and why I thought I was going to have to repair it. hehe. :pat:

 

OK boys and girls,
Since Mc Master Carr had already been mentioned, it was too easy for me to think of getting it there.... so I called and drove around to a few HD's and Lowes till I founf it.
BUT, I had to order some bolts from Mc Master and wouldnt you know it, they carry it in 4", 6" and 36" widths!!! They call it "Self Stick Roll Roofing". I called Mc Master to verify that it is Peel N Seal and they confirmed it was, So I will find out in a couple of days.


peel n seal