Seafoam Injector / Intake Cleaner = GOOD STUFF
#261
I have read every post on this thread. I kind of want to do this. I am sure my truck needs it, but I am scerd. I dont have a clue what hydrolocking is, but i know that it is really bad. And someone pointed out the pcv valve on my 3.0 4Runner and it looks hard to get to. I guess i could take the plenum(i think) off the top, but that might be too complicated for me. Can someone show me the brake booster line or where else i can put this in at? I cannot figure out other peoples descriptions and any pics posted will not show up.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
#262
Originally Posted by slow_xc_star
I have read every post on this thread. I kind of want to do this. I am sure my truck needs it, but I am scerd. I dont have a clue what hydrolocking is, but i know that it is really bad. And someone pointed out the pcv valve on my 3.0 4Runner and it looks hard to get to. I guess i could take the plenum(i think) off the top, but that might be too complicated for me. Can someone show me the brake booster line or where else i can put this in at? I cannot figure out other peoples descriptions and any pics posted will not show up.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
Turns out all the funky stuff that was happening with my engine while doing the Seafoam treatment was perfectly normal. I did another (full) treatment just 3 days ago and it did wonders for my idling and throttle response....not too sure on the MPG though. Anyway, I did mine through the brake booster line but I have the 3.4 V6. It should be a rather thick black hose right next to your brake fluid reservoir, that attatches directly to the engine manifold. If you pull it off with the engine running you should feel a strong vacuum from it (and the engine will run pretty rough since it's sucking in so much air....don't worry about it like I did
) You pour the Seafoam SLOWLY into the tube, letting the vacuum suck the fluid in (personally I took about 15 minutes just to do 1/3 of the can)It may be different on the 3.0 so someone else might be able to offer a pic or something.
And yes, hydrolocking is a bad thing, usually resulting in the replacement/rebuild of the engine.
Last edited by Pretacopower; Aug 18, 2004 at 06:20 PM.
#263
Cool...i think i found it. its the only hose coming out of the brake booster and it sucks like a vaccum. So i guess i am going to do this today, but i am nervous. so how do i put it in the hose? since i am supposed to do it slowly i am guessing i should not put the hose in the can and let it suck it up. How long should it take to put in a third of a can so i can judge how much to put in at a time??
Thanks!
Thanks!
#264
just pour the seafoam in the end of the hose. the rush of air will suck it in.
DON'T put the hose in the can. just pour as fast as you can w/o overflowing the hose and you'll be fine.
DON'T put the hose in the can. just pour as fast as you can w/o overflowing the hose and you'll be fine.
#265
Originally Posted by slow_xc_star
Cool...i think i found it. its the only hose coming out of the brake booster and it sucks like a vaccum. So i guess i am going to do this today, but i am nervous. so how do i put it in the hose? since i am supposed to do it slowly i am guessing i should not put the hose in the can and let it suck it up. How long should it take to put in a third of a can so i can judge how much to put in at a time??
Thanks!
Thanks!
To keep your engine running while you're pouring it into the hose, try clamping down on the hose a bit with some pliars to reduce the amount of vaccuum loss.
Then pour the seafoam into the tube. You will notice the vaccuum is causing it to instantly vaporize/atomize as it sucks it in. The engine will start to run very rough, but that's ok. Try to pour in fast enough for it to run real bad, but slow enough to not kill the engine. You should be able to tell when. It would help to have a helper keep their foot on the gas and keep the rpms up to around 2k - 2.5k rpm.
So when you guess you've gotten about a 3rd of the can in, pour in a little faster, then have your helper cut the engine. Stop pouring when they cut it.
It will buck and diesel and sound like crap for 5-20 seconds and finally die out. Its normal.
Then wait 5-10. Then restart and watch the spectacle.
#266
Oh, and when you start it up, make sure to ahve the guy on the gas rev it up a little and take some pics of the batmobile's now smoke screen.
the smoke will clear up about about 4 or 5 minutes and the engine will literally PUUUURRRRRR.
the smoke will clear up about about 4 or 5 minutes and the engine will literally PUUUURRRRRR.
#267
i am going to have a heck of a time trying to get the seafoam into the hose. its not a real big hose. I think i have the right hose, its the only one coming out of the booster and it wraps around and ends up connecting to the plenum thing.
#268
#269
My engine actually started revving up when the seafoam was being poured through the pcv line. It ran smoother as the seafoam went in, and rougher if I slowed down or stopped pouring. All in all, seafoam worked great for me and I would recommend it. It's been about 4,000 miles since I've done my treatment and I think 'll be doing it soon, just to keep everything nice and clean. I used a full can through the pcv the first time, but I guess if I do this regularly, I'll use the 1/3 can recommended in the directions.
#270
yeah, i just got done putting it in like 30 seconds ago. my engine did the same thing, it ran better as i put it in. so now i am waiting. i was kind of worried 'cause i did not think it was supposed to run better as i put it in, but now i feel better. i only put about a third in, should i put the rest in my gas tank or should i do another treatment? and when should i do another treatment??
#272
It's really up to you. I would do one full can in the intake and one full can in the tank. But you could do like bamachem said, it wouldn't hurt, but might be overkill if your intake is not that dirty, which it probably is. Will you're doing your cleaning, you should clean the throttle body while you're at it. Also, glad everything turned out ok.
#273
so guess what happened....NOTHING
I went out all excited to see this smoke and stuff and i started my engine and stepped outside to look for the smoke and there was nothing. So then i drove it around about 1/2 mile and still nothing. did i do it wrong?? i let it sit for 15 minutes after putting the seafoam in
I went out all excited to see this smoke and stuff and i started my engine and stepped outside to look for the smoke and there was nothing. So then i drove it around about 1/2 mile and still nothing. did i do it wrong?? i let it sit for 15 minutes after putting the seafoam in
#275
this stuff is awesome...i'm smokin' now. i drove it a little bit too and definatley an improvment.
#276
Originally Posted by slow_xc_star
i am going to have a heck of a time trying to get the seafoam into the hose. its not a real big hose. I think i have the right hose, its the only one coming out of the booster and it wraps around and ends up connecting to the plenum thing.
#277
i will have to admit , seafoam is a good product, but ..... last week i got a check engine light about the o2 sensor. code P1135 i believe. o2 sensor and a closed loop. then i get a call from my buddy also a member of the board saying that he go the same code. anyone else have this problem?
#278
I haven't, but given what other folks have said, it could be a result of the junk that Seafoam loosened up.
I'd pull the O2 sensor, hit it with intake cleaner, let it dry, and put it back in. I think you'll be okay.
I'd pull the O2 sensor, hit it with intake cleaner, let it dry, and put it back in. I think you'll be okay.
#279
(I'm not leaning towards this theory at all) IF there is so much junk flying out as to even stick to the O2 sensor, how exactly is this stuff going to get through the cat converter without plugging it? If that stuff wasn't burned up in the cylinder it's certainly won't be burned up in the cat where the temperature is 5 times lower.
Edit:
P1135 on a Toyota means 'A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)'.
Doubt that's a result of 'fouling'.
Edit:
P1135 on a Toyota means 'A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)'.
Doubt that's a result of 'fouling'.
#280
ok, just gave the 4r a one to one treatment...1/3 can, 3x in the PCV hose...one in the gas tank....didn't smoke TOO bad....so far, so good....
Åaron
Åaron


