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how to remove light bush scratches in paint.
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 884
Likes: 1
From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
how to remove light bush scratches in paint.
what product do you guys use to remove scratches that occur? i hate how the truck is scratched to hell. their just light scratches in the clear coat if these trucks ever came with clear coat.
#4
Dude I use this stuff called TR3 , It works great , and its cheap
.http://www.midwayautosupply.com/imag...ge/TR3-12A.jpg
.http://www.midwayautosupply.com/imag...ge/TR3-12A.jpg
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#8
moved from Misc Stuff (Members Classifieds). lol
I tried that that Scratch-X and wasn't all that impressed, initially I was but over time it seemed to make some scratches look worse...and I waxed it.
I'll try something else when spring comes.
I tried that that Scratch-X and wasn't all that impressed, initially I was but over time it seemed to make some scratches look worse...and I waxed it.
I'll try something else when spring comes.
Last edited by rocket; Mar 30, 2009 at 09:39 PM.
#9
Depending on how serious you could go to a paint shop and look a a new clear coat. i don't know price but more than trying some of the other products, i tried to wax mine out didn;t work so now i just don;t worry, my trucks always dirty though.
Profile quote
I have taken my head off so many times that i can replace a HG easier than i can get my fat wrist down to take a dang oil filter off.
Profile quote
I have taken my head off so many times that i can replace a HG easier than i can get my fat wrist down to take a dang oil filter off.
#10
buffing is not just for wax you can do wonders with a buffer and some practice. as for your 93 i do not know if it came with factory basecoat/clearcoat or if it was a singlestage. you need to get a quality buffer,maybe you can rent one, with a variety of buffing pads and some good buffing compounds. i use a big angle grinder with a wool pad for hardcore buffing, the cheap things they call buffers at parts stores aren't worth a dime. using a buffer and compound is like using super fine liquid sandpaper to polish the surface. you start with a coarser compound and work your way up and finish with a high quality wax, i use Meguiar's Gold Class and apply it with a pad on an electric sander. if you decide to go this route be careful because the clearcoat on Toyotas is really thin. you could check with some local detail shops or body shops and see if they would do it for you. buffing is a skill and it takes awhile to get good at it but your truck looks white so you have that going for you. white is the easiest color to buff and black is an absolute nightmare. any questions just ask. good luck
Last edited by wheatus; Apr 12, 2009 at 04:36 PM.
#11
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 884
Likes: 1
From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
buffing is not just for wax you can do wonders with a buffer and some practice. as for your 93 i do not know if it came with factory basecoat/clearcoat or if it was a singlestage. you need to get a quality buffer,maybe you can rent one, with a variety of buffing pads and some good buffing compounds. i use a big angle grinder with a wool pad for hardcore buffing, the cheap things they call buffers at parts stores aren't worth a dime. using a buffer and compound is like using super fine liquid sandpaper to polish the surface. you start with a coarser compound and work your way up and finish with a high quality wax, i use Meguiar's Gold Class and apply it with a pad on an electric sander. if you decide to go this route be careful because the clearcoat on Toyotas is really thin. you could check with some local detail shops or body shops and see if they would do it for you. buffing is a skill and it takes awhile to get good at it but your truck looks white so you have that going for you. white is the easiest color to buff and black is an absolute nightmare. any questions just ask. good luck
#13
I used the Meguiars "Deep Crystal System" to clean up the paint on an old RX-7 and the results were outright amazing. It's a three-step setup, the last step is when you apply the wax.
The Scratch-X product is probably similar.
Toss that Turtle Wax in the trash, IMO. Just about any other brand of car wash/wax is going to be better.
The Scratch-X product is probably similar.
Toss that Turtle Wax in the trash, IMO. Just about any other brand of car wash/wax is going to be better.
#14
I would have to agree with crolison, when ever you wheel hard, scratches just tends to happen. Think of them as beauty marks. I would just get some touch up paint and use it on scratches that go to the metal. It will prevent the rust.
Wheatus is spot on with explination on the buffers, and how to use them. I worked in a detail shop, and it takes a good amount of practice to not burn through the clear coat and to end up with a good finish. With it being black you might end up with swirl marks, which i think looks worse then beauty marks. I use blue coral products, they seem to work great. Good luck.
Wheatus is spot on with explination on the buffers, and how to use them. I worked in a detail shop, and it takes a good amount of practice to not burn through the clear coat and to end up with a good finish. With it being black you might end up with swirl marks, which i think looks worse then beauty marks. I use blue coral products, they seem to work great. Good luck.
#15
i checked out the Meguiar's and it seems to just be a hand glaze and not going to be your total answer. i have always used 3M compounds and pads but i am sure the Meguiar's compounds are excellent. i am a huge fan of their waxes, turtle wax is ok but i am too lazy for that. polishing and waxing is preventative maintanence for your paint. if you get the scratches out of it and a good wax on it will be more resistant to scratching and easier to fix if it gets scratched.
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