So I finally got my newish engine.

20k miles, rebuilt in '04, performance cams and headers.


I'll be taking my old 3.0 out soon and putting in this one. A few questions.

Since I have new valve gaskets, and a new PCV I'll put those in (new spark plugs too).

Before I drop it in should I check/do anything?

Also what should I use to clean off the carbon deposits in the intake?

What brand of drive belts do you guys recommend?

Also a few thousand miles ago I put gear oil in the Tcase about 2qts. Now that it has been sitting for 3 months, the gear oil probably has settled. Would moving the vehicle (20 feet back, 30 feet forward) by manual labor, would that mix it all up again? What if I drained it all and then moved it, would that be bad?

Thats all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance!

Phil

 

just drive it like normal. as soon as you move it will splash the gear oil throughout the housing.

 

Except he has an auto, based on his sig. You do NOT put gear oil in a hydraulic Tcase. Drain it all out before you move the truck, and fill it with new atf. You will likely have to "rinse and repeat" so to speak a few times, to get it all flushed out.

 

Deathcougar, so if I drain it all out before I move it, can I still move it? like I said, it's basically moving 10 feet to the right. Right now its under the carport, which attached to the garage, where it will go.

 

Also, whats a good replacement for Dex III?

 

As long as you don't try to drive it, yea you can move it. Dex III is Dex IIII i think. YOu only want to use Mercon Dexron ATF

 

So I drained all of the fluid out of the T-Case, and then the transmission pan. what concerns me is that there was about a quart of gear oil in there and after 3 months of being completely still it looks to be all ATF fluid. Seems to be a little bit thicker than usual at first so I think ATF broke it down a little. Interestingly enough the ATF fluid out of the T-case was nice and red, yet out of the trans was brownish.

 

Starting the tear down today. Any tips?

 

Manged to get to the plenum off and some others... pics later its 3 am and I'm going to bed.

 

Rad. removed


Parts taken off


I'm OCD...


As it sits right now


EGR is NOT going back on, so that's being removed. I noticed ALOT of fuel come out of the plenum, kinda scared me.

So far only casualty is the fuel tube on the left of the plenum, accidentally snapped that.

Is it worth it to remove the plenum, or could I just let it sit like that and remove the engine that way?

What a good way to test the radiator? Theres some rust bubbles on the bittom, and some buildup in the pasages.

Also the trans fluid that came out horrified me, it was brown and smelled burnt, I'm afraid that now I'll have to get a new transmission.

I'll be doing a little more later today, when I get the heater working again. 29 degrees is freezing!

 

I've been doing some research on exhaust systems, but don't have the dough for high end kind of stuff.

Should I just bring it to the muffler guy, or should I order one?

Another question, are slip joints really that good?

 

Got alot done today, just waiting on parts, and money.

Too many pics to post.

Slideshow -> http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...view=slideshow

 

This is concerning me. Should I be concerned?

 

Yeah, that's a little scary. It's a lot easier to remove a broken bolt with the engine out than it is later in the engine bay. I'd just do it now

 

Cool, what should I do, search?

Extract the bolt it is then.


On the good side, HOLY CRAP! Downey was SUPER fast to deliver, with their standard shipping. I ordered a gasket and stud kit yesterday around 1 and it came today around 12. That's nearly impossible, Downey is 1,900 miles away from here. Three thumbs up to Downey!

 

I'd drill it out as much as possible and use an easy out. The trick is to start drilling as close to the center of the broken bolt as possible (use a center punch to start the hole), use oil to keep the drill bit lubed and cool, go slow rpms and stop often to cool the bit. Start with a small bit and work up to as big as possible without hitting the hole threads. That will allow you to use a bigger easyout (less likely to break the easy out) and once the walls of the bolt remains are thin it will come out easier. Don't drill too deep, get a new bolt and see how long they are. Use PB Blaster and let it soak before trying to remove it. Good luck

 

Thanks for the wise procedure mt goat, is printing as I type. I haven't gotten around to it yet, as I was busy pulling the old 3.0 out. Words cannot express the feeling of getting the engine out. It was my first major thing ever with really no guides except Yotatech. I had little to no help, really the only help I had was when a friend came and helped for 10 minutes to get the engine over the front clip. Yotatech rocks!

As predicted, there is a nice sized hole in the block. I still have to get some stuff of the old 3.0 like the torque converter, that metal plate, motor mounts, dipstick, dist., a few hoses, and the part where the fan mounts to.

If it wasn't for all the helpful members of Yotatech, I would have scrapped the 4Runner.

Now, Time for some pics.




And of course the hole.









Thats all for tonight folks!

 

Did you remove the torque converter with the engine? If so, you should replace the torqure converter seal. Carefully put the torque converter back on the tranny all the way before putting the engine in.

 

Yes, is that bad? Nothing is bent or anything. Where is the seal?

How should I remove it?

 

Well its bad for the TC seal, but you can replace it to be on the safe side. Its around the tranny input shaft in your pic above. I've never replaced one so you'll have to search for that but if its like most seals you just carefully pull/pry it out and carefully tap in a new one.