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Finally got a newish engine!!! Some Suggestions needed...

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #21  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Ok thanks.


EDIT: Timing is fine, I just didn't have the dist. aligned.

Last edited by 24Runna; Mar 30, 2009 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #22  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
I was trying to remove the pilot bearing but it ended up where the outer race is the only thing left. How should I go about removing it without damaging the crank.

Also, the shipper broke the oil pressure sending unit off, I ended up finally getting it out, but a good amount of metal chunks fell into the block, and I already added oil and the filter. Should I just drain the oil (literally $40 bucks down the drain, lol) and put new oil in or what?


Thanks.

Last edited by 24Runna; Apr 1, 2009 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #23  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
bumpity bump
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #24  
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Ended up going out and buying a Dremel, our old one died. Had that thing out in 10 minutes .

I am almost ready to drop it in, but first a question.

What do the flex plate bolts need to be torqued to? I tried a few searches and found one post that said 65 lbs/ft, but want too verify. Also, is blue thread lock okay to use? Or should I run to Wal-Mart and get some loc-tite?
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 04:55 AM
  #25  
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by 24Runna
Ended up going out and buying a Dremel, our old one died. Had that thing out in 10 minutes .

I am almost ready to drop it in, but first a question.

What do the flex plate bolts need to be torqued to? I tried a few searches and found one post that said 65 lbs/ft, but want too verify. Also, is blue thread lock okay to use? Or should I run to Wal-Mart and get some loc-tite?
Looks like 61 ft-lbs here:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...71services.pdf

I'd use any brand of blue thread lock.

Last edited by mt_goat; Apr 2, 2009 at 04:57 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 12:45 PM
  #26  
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Thanks so much mt_goat. For some reason I spent an hour and couldn't find it, yet you found it instantly. Oh well.


Sweet, hope to get her running soon.

Quick question, like I said before, I had to drill out the old oil sensor, and put in a new one, in the process some metal shavings got in, with the new oil i just put in, and one metal piece. Is there anything to worry about?
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 24Runna

Quick question, like I said before, I had to drill out the old oil sensor, and put in a new one, in the process some metal shavings got in, with the new oil i just put in, and one metal piece. Is there anything to worry about?
\

I always worry, but I really don't know.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #28  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
I'm just not going to worry about it. Thats what an oil filter is for. Ever since I started to know more about cars, I've been paranoid, knowing what could happen, but I get that pat on the back from Herclyota, and everything will be alright.

So far I'm $1,771.68 in the hole, less tools. Expensive, but less than the 3.4, and its barley used with headers, intake and performance cams. So I personally think it is a great experience for me, and money well spent.

This wouldn't have been made possible if it wasn't for Yotatech, mt_goat, a handful of others, and alot of hard work. Thank you.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 03:38 PM
  #29  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
How does one go about and capping the emission stuff on the headers? The guy that sold them to me failed to include anything. I'm lost.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #30  
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Boom done. Drive her around today. Its like a dream come true! 6 months is way too long to be away from it.

Only thing is it pooped out a crankshaft bolt.

Thanks to EVERYONE for their help!

(pics eventually)


Now I gotta get an exhaust system, straight headers are defining, though it seemed to quiet down a bit.

Last edited by 24Runna; Apr 15, 2009 at 02:01 PM.
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