i was just wondering how easy it is to break a stock cv i hear some people on here do it alot and some never have just wondering

 

This will depend on a great many factors...If you are running a blown V8 with dual cases and 5.29 gears, extreme CV angles, and some 40's, it would be easy

I have lots of gearing, and a 4 banger. I have no lift in the front. i've never broken one. I've replaced one on a trail in a stock truck with stock gearing and stock tires...

This is kind of one of those "it depends" answers.

It depends on your truck, your modifications, your driving style and experience, etc...

 

Don't forget... it also depends on the skinny pedal too

 

I can't seem to do it, and mine are 20 yrs old. the boots.....that's a different story.

 

Yeah, my CVs are stock but I have a broken boot too. I was gonna replace the CV axle because of it but its beent hat way so long i'm not that worried. I want to hold out as long as I can on steering stuff casue I want to swap axles.

 

My truck is all stock with 31's and I don't really do any wheeling. I've been driving for over a year with one of my cv boots pretty much all gone and it hasn't broken yet. I plan on replacing the whole axle here pretty soon tho

 

3 front differential gear failures (2 r&p, 1 side gears), 1 CV joint failure, a short time after. The other is in very good condition, just rebuit with fresh boots. Tough cookies, in my book.

 

Broke my passenger side axle but that was from high RPMs close to 5k on the tach before a tire found something to grab onto.

 

so far mine have lasted me thru more abuse than ill ever do to it again. but boots seem to hate me and my cv angles

mudhippy let me try to guess: big tires, tons of wheelspin, then a tire found traction? hehehe

 

I think if you could get the wheels off the ground, gas it, and land hard you could break one. One major factor is sudenly stopping wheel spin.

 

that's how a locker protects your CV's...

 

And breaks R&P's

 

the hype about lockers causing damage is exaggerated. The vast majority are just coincidence - you're running the harder trails you're capable of while locked and you break more. Duh. IF you could run those same trails open, you would break as much or more.

Locking the diff allows the torque to be evenly distributed between the wheels, AND reduces the wheelspeed of tires off the ground (in an open diff, the ring gear is the average of the two wheel speeds, so, if a tire comes off the ground, it spins TWICE as fast).

There is ONE instance where a locker will cause damage - a wedged/bound up wheel. First, you should be avoiding those situations because it will cause damage even on an open diff vehicle, and you're likely to get stuck. Next, if that situation is unavoidable, that is why I suggest selectable lockers - you can turn it off, or why I have manual hubs - so you can unlock one.

To make a long story short, lockers PREVENT as much or more damage (and in a lot more common situations) than they cause.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhA81xyR-E0

Watch the whole video. It's that easy!

 

That's when critical mass was achieved. The other factors were 4lo, missing upper bumpstop(the entire bracket busted off), and with the subsequent extra droop(not a good thing this time) and the steering wheel cranked all the way. What I'm tryin' to say is the thing was all bent like a chicken wing, high rpm, 5500ish, wheel bounced several times then.........