stuck caliper and upgrading MC / dual diaphram
#1
stuck caliper and upgrading MC / dual diaphram
Ok I've searched and searched, and just gotten myself all confused 
Thats why Im here in the n00b section!
My passenger side caliper is sticking (truck pulls hard to the left and is starting to be a safety issue cuz it takes a while to stop) and I figure its time to change out the caliper. Also, I keep losing fluid and cant exactly figure out where its going and have heard it may be leaking back into my booster.
That being said I plan on replacing the caliper and MC and Booster.
Ive read that I can replace the Master Cylinder to a 1" from a later 90-95 truck/4runner, and switch the booster to a dual diaphram from a v6. will this alone make a difference?
And can I keep the same 86 22re calipers (assuming I replace my bad caliper) or do I need v6 calipers?
Ive read different things and Im lost in the sauce right now.

Thats why Im here in the n00b section!
My passenger side caliper is sticking (truck pulls hard to the left and is starting to be a safety issue cuz it takes a while to stop) and I figure its time to change out the caliper. Also, I keep losing fluid and cant exactly figure out where its going and have heard it may be leaking back into my booster.
That being said I plan on replacing the caliper and MC and Booster.
Ive read that I can replace the Master Cylinder to a 1" from a later 90-95 truck/4runner, and switch the booster to a dual diaphram from a v6. will this alone make a difference?
And can I keep the same 86 22re calipers (assuming I replace my bad caliper) or do I need v6 calipers?
Ive read different things and Im lost in the sauce right now.
#3
I've read that you can just bolt them right in, but I've also read that you need to get the v6 rotors as well. That's why I'm all confused.
I don't really want to have to modify much, just want to slap them on and call it a day. Also, price is a factor so if I can just buy the one 86 caliper and still have some improvement I'll be happy.
#5
If you're going to change out the caliper it is best to just do them both. I know it costs more but the brake system is one thing you don't want to do a sub par job on.
Have you checked the wheel cylinders for leakage? That could be where your brake fluid is going.
I don't think you need to change the rotors if you go to the upgraded calipers. The only time you need new rotors is when you are doing the upgrade to a pre '86 truck with a solid front axle.
Also you can upgrade the wheel cylinders to a landcruiser one that has a 1" bore and makes for better rear braking.
Have you checked the wheel cylinders for leakage? That could be where your brake fluid is going.
I don't think you need to change the rotors if you go to the upgraded calipers. The only time you need new rotors is when you are doing the upgrade to a pre '86 truck with a solid front axle.
Also you can upgrade the wheel cylinders to a landcruiser one that has a 1" bore and makes for better rear braking.
#6
If you're going to change out the caliper it is best to just do them both. I know it costs more but the brake system is one thing you don't want to do a sub par job on.
Have you checked the wheel cylinders for leakage? That could be where your brake fluid is going.
I don't think you need to change the rotors if you go to the upgraded calipers. The only time you need new rotors is when you are doing the upgrade to a pre '86 truck with a solid front axle.
Also you can upgrade the wheel cylinders to a landcruiser one that has a 1" bore and makes for better rear braking.
Have you checked the wheel cylinders for leakage? That could be where your brake fluid is going.
I don't think you need to change the rotors if you go to the upgraded calipers. The only time you need new rotors is when you are doing the upgrade to a pre '86 truck with a solid front axle.
Also you can upgrade the wheel cylinders to a landcruiser one that has a 1" bore and makes for better rear braking.
I dont think it is my wheel cylinders because I have noticed some dry fluid around the inside of my front right tire where the stuck caliper is. So I'm pretty sure it is the front caliper thats leaking. Over the weekend I will see what the deal is.
#7
Just go to the junkyard and get the brake booster, master cylinder and the calipers from a 91-95 V6 4runner and be done with it. I got them from a 95 4runner, and you will see what a difference it will make.
Last edited by maco35; Apr 13, 2014 at 02:26 PM.
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#8
#9
I was stupid because i also got the hubs and rotors and i didn't need them, so i paid 170.00 for the whole thing. You will be looking around maybe 120.00 or less. So it's better to get the rotors brand new from he parts store as the ones i got from the JY were warped.
#10
Ok, so I picked up a set of 93 calipers, dual diaphram booster and a newish master cylinder for $80 off craigslist! Been all excited to put it all in and got new pads, 1" fj60 wheel cylinders and rear shoes.
All I have to do now is turn the rotors and drums.......
but NO!
What the heck is up with toyota rotors??? You need to take off the hub and wheel bearings???? And get new seals? Man this job is looking tough for a newb, and expensive, not to mention I don't have half the tools to do it right.
So is this the time where I should also get new wheel bearings?
All I have to do now is turn the rotors and drums.......
but NO! What the heck is up with toyota rotors??? You need to take off the hub and wheel bearings???? And get new seals? Man this job is looking tough for a newb, and expensive, not to mention I don't have half the tools to do it right.
So is this the time where I should also get new wheel bearings?
#11
I would suggest getting new bearings if you are going to be pulling them off and since they are used and you don't know the condition of them. Also I have rebuilt calipers, not much to them as it is just replacing seals in them. Like your first post about them sticking, I would suggest taking them apart and giving them a good cleaning. I have flushed my brake lines in the past, and then later on took the calipers apart and they still had some nasty stuff in them. It isn't hard to do.
Here is some info>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51992699
Here is some info>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51992699
#12
Here is a 5 part video on you tube on how to do the job, and the only special tool you will need is a 54 mm. socket if you have a set of regular tools at home already, the big socket is around $15.00 bucks.
#13
I would suggest getting new bearings if you are going to be pulling them off and since they are used and you don't know the condition of them. Also I have rebuilt calipers, not much to them as it is just replacing seals in them. Like your first post about them sticking, I would suggest taking them apart and giving them a good cleaning. I have flushed my brake lines in the past, and then later on took the calipers apart and they still had some nasty stuff in them. It isn't hard to do.
Here is some info>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51992699
Here is some info>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51992699
Thanks for your reply- I got some v6 calipers along with what I thought was everything else to do the conversion- just wish I knew that turning the rotors would end up costing me more for the socket, seals, wheel bearings, grease, time yotatech-ing.
What did y'all use to trim the dust shield?? I don't have a dremel, I'm guessing that's the best tool.
#15
Oh yeah? Sweet. One less thing I have to buy hopefully. Did you pack them the redneck way (just using your hand) or the right way?
#18
The red neck way was the only way for a long time. But I bought a cheap bearing packer awhile ago. 2 plastic cones that screw together to hold in the grease a nipple fitting in the middle forces the grease in and it slowly works from the inside out. Yet I still do all mine by hand. Maybe I like the added flavor of grease on my sandwiches I eat for lunch or maybe I just like to be dirty. Either way even with my bearing packer it's still super messy so just get greasy it will be fun 
.

.
#19
The red neck way was the only way for a long time. But I bought a cheap bearing packer awhile ago. 2 plastic cones that screw together to hold in the grease a nipple fitting in the middle forces the grease in and it slowly works from the inside out. Yet I still do all mine by hand. Maybe I like the added flavor of grease on my sandwiches I eat for lunch or maybe I just like to be dirty. Either way even with my bearing packer it's still super messy so just get greasy it will be fun 
.

.
Im glad to just do it by hand.
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